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Wheel bearing/HUB ABS light problem

Very useful stuff here guys. This really could be added to the technical library with a link to this thread so as to assist 6.5's later on.

Bullseye I appreciate the info there. Learn something new everyday
 
For the record, I drove around with an ABS lamp on for 3 years. So it would not bug me, I disconnected the ABS unit. I knew the problem was the l/f ABS speed sensor. Last week I decided to do the front brakes as the rotors were shot. So at the mileage it had, I thought I may as well replace the hub assemblies as well. I found two Timkin units on line for 213.00 bucks each which came with new sensors. That was a deal after looking at other places for 300 or 400 bucks each. The job went real easy and it cured my ABS lamp issue. The old hubs were tight and rotated with out any roughness or noise, so that is the other side of the coin. I'll put them in stock in case I need them down the road. Anyone else keep junk besides me?
 
Overloading, by exceeding the design specs, IE:too much weight or too much stress from dropping from excessive height or as said before lack of lubrication.
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Guy that towed mine after the fact and replaced the hubs/axles said of the many he's replaced said no rhyme or reason, nor any fail acceleration mode or mileage life he could pin as something to avoid, said even his stock street driven truck failed at 40K.
 
gotcha. Whats the general life of the spindle/bearing setup? Is that one of the items I should add to the "replace at 80-100K miles" list?

Luckily, my truck is just coming up on 66,000 miles so its not like these parts have clocked hundreds of thousands of miles, just ages really.
I always repacked my fronts at about 30k give or take 10k. By doing that I've seen 'em last well over 300k. A properly packed and adjusted tapered roller bearing can have unlimited life. If they do go bad it's real easy to replace the cup and cone and relatively cheap.
 
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