• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What's available for a 4" stainless exhaust these days?

It seems only the aluminized systems have the ball and socket design

If you're set on stainless and want an easier disconnect at the downpipe to 4", your likely best bet is to get a stainless 3"-4" coupler and a set of 4" vband clamshells to mate the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. You could also get one of those braided stainless flex pieces to give you some of the mobility the ball and socket would allow for and weld it to the downpipe before the vband section

you can get the necessary stainless vband and flex pipe parts here

DSM Intercooler Piping

Exhaust Parts and Accessories
www.siliconeintakes.com
 
DieselAmateur said:
It seems only the aluminized systems have the ball and socket design

If you're set on stainless and want an easier disconnect at the downpipe to 4", your likely best bet is to get a stainless 3"-4" coupler and a set of 4" vband clamshells to mate the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. You could also get one of those braided stainless flex pieces to give you some of the mobility the ball and socket would allow for and weld it to the downpipe before the vband section

you can get the necessary stainless vband and flex pipe parts here

DSM Intercooler Piping

Exhaust Parts and Accessories
www.siliconeintakes.com
Click to expand...
Thank you much.
I've been searching and calling about all day
 
I think that is correct, only the aluminized systems have the ball socket connections. you might have to do some modding in that area for a easy connection.

What kind of pricing would a shop charge to do a custom stainless setup? I remember when I installed the diamond eye kit on my truck, it was a PIA to get it all lined up!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I think that is correct, only the aluminized systems have the ball socket connections. you might have to do some modding in that area for a easy connection.

What kind of pricing would a shop charge to do a custom stainless setup? I remember when I installed the diamond eye kit on my truck, it was a PIA to get it all lined up!
Click to expand...
I don't know of any decent exhaust shops in my area.
They all do cheap and shoddy work to get you by.

I want a once and done.

The twit I took the Tahoe to for a stainless exhaust, didn't use stainless clamps.

Pissed me off. Still and the Tahoe is long gone
 
DieselAmateur said:
It seems only the aluminized systems have the ball and socket design

If you're set on stainless and want an easier disconnect at the downpipe to 4", your likely best bet is to get a stainless 3"-4" coupler and a set of 4" vband clamshells to mate the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. You could also get one of those braided stainless flex pieces to give you some of the mobility the ball and socket would allow for and weld it to the downpipe before the vband section

you can get the necessary stainless vband and flex pipe parts here

DSM Intercooler Piping

Exhaust Parts and Accessories
www.siliconeintakes.com
Click to expand...
I was thinking about a flex piece. I've never seen a 4" exhaust that had one.

I thought the solid exhaust could put a lot of weight or unnecessary tension.

But I've never seen a 4" exhaust with a flex or heard of not having a flex, bevan issue.

I remember having a couple of 4" stainless band clamps in the shed. Along with a couple of reducing clamps of unremembered size.

I guess I'll just order the system and worry about cutting it, when and if the time comes. I'll have to write my plan in the maintenance book,

The clamps I have are a little like this, only overlap to seal all the way around. I'm bad about getting an idea in my head, pursuing it and not thinking of my other options.

 
We used that style exhaust clamps all the time working on semi trucks in late 90’s early 2000s. I stopped working on them after that, no reason I would think they quit using them now.
Also the flex used in semi trucks would be used with those style clamps.
No special ends, the flex wasn’t that expensive. All the semi parts stores had good selection in stock.
That is my plan when I redo mine.

A random screenshot of the type of flex - I don’t know or recommend this company- just random example.
IMG_9412.png
 
Will L. said:
We used that style exhaust clamps all the time working on semi trucks in late 90’s early 2000s. I stopped working on them after that, no reason I would think they quit using them now.
Also the flex used in semi trucks would be used with those style clamps.
No special ends, the flex wasn’t that expensive. All the semi parts stores had good selection in stock.
That is my plan when I redo mine.

A random screenshot of the type of flex - I don’t know or recommend this company- just random example.
View attachment 85463
Click to expand...
Do you think a short piece of that type of flex would be better than this?

Exhaust Flex Section

Use this exhaust flex section to maximize flow.
www.siliconeintakes.com
 
I honestly don’t know which is best for which application. I know the type I posted is what Almost all semi trucks and heavy equipment use- and they last a lot of years/ mileage before having problems. When they do fail, replacing is easy with a cut off wheel to size the exact length you need. Then because I am overly picky, i use a 2” roloc sander wheel on the die grinder to eliminate sharp edges. Wrap the clamps around and get them close. Slip in the little seal part that goes near the bolts if that brand uses them and tighten the bolts. I don’t think I ever seen anyone use a torque wrench- usually just impact gun till it gets a couple ugga-duggas just alternate between the two bolts a couple times as ya go. The flex O.D. Is slightly more than the pipe, the band just conforms to it.

The weld in v band rings for the braided style is definitely nice to work with once built.
I think I will have to use that style making my up pipes when I do my bigger center mount turbo. Factory hummer/van up pipes use that but with 1/16” thin metal- it always cracks. A dab of anti seize where the clamp slips around the fittings helps a lot.
 
Will L. said:
Welding is all about practice, You go a while without doing it and the skill fades.
Tig welding especially.
Click to expand...
The eyesight/cataracts and Shakey hands don't help a dang thang. I used to put in text book welds every time.

Not so much anymore.

Thin wall isn't very forgiving.

The hardest test I ever took was 1/2" emt horizontal duct stiffener to an 18 or 20 ga side. Maximum of 2 starts. No vertical down allowed
 
That is the same style flex pipe I used on my down pipe to eliminate the stress on the turbo exhaust housing and manifold from the rigid pipe. mine is not stainless but with the flex, the manifold and turbo isn't under stress as the engine twerks under the hood!
 
dbrannon79 said:
That is the same style flex pipe I used on my down pipe to eliminate the stress on the turbo exhaust housing and manifold from the rigid pipe. mine is not stainless but with the flex, the manifold and turbo isn't under stress as the engine twerks under the hood!
Click to expand...
Show and tell gets higher grades when pictures are attached…
 
Will L. said:
Show and tell gets higher grades when pictures are attached…
Click to expand...
I would love to get a pic but I would have to pull the inner fender to get a visual! I cut the down pipe about 6-8 inches below the v-band clamp area and installed the piece of flex there going down about 12 inches. iirc the down pipe is a 3" pipe. I used two flat band clamps to connect it in the same manor like we do at work with the big rigs. we normally smear some red high temp rtv on the pipe and slip on the flex, then clamp it with the flat band to prevent leaks. many times the flex will get pinched where the flat band clamp bolts together creating a leak. the rtv silicone will stop that leak and seems to hold up well to the heat.

next time I do pull the inner fender I will try to remember to snap a pic. :)
 
dbrannon79 said:
I would love to get a pic but I would have to pull the inner fender to get a visual! I cut the down pipe about 6-8 inches below the v-band clamp area and installed the piece of flex there going down about 12 inches. iirc the down pipe is a 3" pipe. I used two flat band clamps to connect it in the same manor like we do at work with the big rigs. we normally smear some red high temp rtv on the pipe and slip on the flex, then clamp it with the flat band to prevent leaks. many times the flex will get pinched where the flat band clamp bolts together creating a leak. the rtv silicone will stop that leak and seems to hold up well to the heat.

next time I do pull the inner fender I will try to remember to snap a pic. :)
Click to expand...
I had some stainless clamps that the piece of stainless lapped under, so the entire circumference was covered.

Not sure what size they were or If I still have any. They were probably from a dust collection system
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top