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What single 180 t stat?

Nessmuk said:
Tanks back in and ran a bit..
Transfer pump working.
T stat in old one was 195 degree. Double gaskets all around with gasket shellac on the metal sides.
Starter in. Tried it and CLICK, then whir and vroom. Shut it off. Tried it again, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, ...CLICK, whir and vroom.
Oh, fixed a clicky, tinny noise. Loose fan blade bolts. Blue Loc Tite and good to go.
Click to expand...
Did You find out what the problem was with the CLICKITY starter ?
 
Yep, it went clickity.
But seriously,
I'm going to do two things.
1. Clean all the grounds as I've had a lot of steering fluid (atf) sprayed on everything, plus diesel and motor oil. All those leaks and issues have oiled everything. I carry brake cleaner for that sort of thing.
2. Carry a spare solenoid and what I need to install it. 11mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, sockets. I only need three of them, 11mm does the signal wire. 13mm to unhook the ground cable, and one for the starter bolts and positive cable nut, but I already forgot the size. I carry all that already. I took my front driveshaft out and put it aside until I'm done towing. That helps a ton. The trucks up high enough that even my gut fits under it, so those 9-16 tires are good for that too, not so much after 14 hours for carpal tunnel , still numb.
Using WD-40 to clean the grease off my hands, and brake cleaner to get the WD-40 off, works slick on the roadside. As an added plus, the brake cleaner points out all the spots needing triple abx and a band-aid.
 
First single click problem with the starter on Mine was the loose solenoid wire.
Second single click problem was the main battery cable nut had came loose, or else enough heat had been generated that the terminal itself loosened up.
That was when I pulled the starter, cleaned the terminals to shiny, tore down the starter and installed new bearings. Have not had a problem with it since and it cranks over very fast now.
The engine is getting to where I do not think it makes a full revolution and it is running, even on a cold start. I am happy about that, LOL
 
One thing I noticed about My batteries is one of the neg side terminal lugs inside of the battery had some missing threads, bolt was partially stripped too. I installed a new bolt but then also added another ground cable to the top post then to the engine.
I think that one thing alone was causing some issues as the side cable was not making full contact.
I am thinking of adding another top post neg. cable to the other battry too.
It was suggested to do away with the side terminals altogether, that too might get done, or else another top post cables added to the existing. that would double the cable terminals at the starter, I dont know if that would be a good thing or not.
 
MrMarty51 said:
One thing I noticed about My batteries is one of the neg side terminal lugs inside of the battery had some missing threads, bolt was partially stripped too. I installed a new bolt but then also added another ground cable to the top post then to the engine.
I think that one thing alone was causing some issues as the side cable was not making full contact.
I am thinking of adding another top post neg. cable to the other battry too.
It was suggested to do away with the side terminals altogether, that too might get done, or else another top post cables added to the existing. that would double the cable terminals at the starter, I dont know if that would be a good thing or not.
Click to expand...

Second cable will carry more amps, but has other issues like more strain on connector and more corrosion possibilities, more likelihood of connection coming loose. Best option is new cables from our nascar mechanic friend, or build your own from same material and yes from top post, not the penny pinching side post crap.

Spare solenoid isn’t a horrible idea, new prestolite installed and keep entire old starter as spare is a better one.

Not always an option at the moment, but better to duct tape and bailing wire to get by until you can afford to do it the right way. Dont waste money on second cable system. If you need to buy solenoid and can return it later unused for refund, then ok. Otherwise If starter has a warranty and you are worried about bieng stranded during the move use a piece of wire with 2 alligator clips to jumper from underneath, and smack the crap starter with a hammer to fire it up- then swap out for another starter under warranty.


I learned long ago it is cheaper in long run to spend a few hundred in high quality upgrades than let a 6.5 nickle and dime you to death. It is the king of the correct upgrade making a nightmare turn into a
dream engine.
 
Napa is warranting the starter. I ordered a good, I hope solenoid.
Made a run today to dolly a car back. Fuel is bouncing from 5psi, to zero. Acts like an air leak somewhere. Maybe in a hose, or in the pickup tube. It doesn't do it on the second tank. I may be plumbing into the second tank as my primary for a bit.
Is there an in tank pump that is flow through on failure?
Car dolly was a misadventure. Forever to load. Tie straps missing parts, having never used one, I didn't know it. Went down a closed road and had to do a tight turn around. Car almost came off. Fabbed a tiedown repair with an extension cord and duct tape. Hitch popped off. Safety chains worked. Lots of backing, forward, etc to get re-hitched, using a cell phone for light as both my 6volt lanterns were dead.
Fun fun fun.
I now have a very nice 94 Dodge Shadow RT to put a motor in and use as a daily driver.
Very clean. Very well maintained. Motor seized due to a poor mechanic leaving a belt loose and the owner not knowing better.
 
Update.
Back in Tennessee. Twice it puked antifreeze, out the cap and then the overflow. About two to three gallons each time. I'm wondering if I've got a head gasket issue?
Crappy diesel has bit me on this trip. One fill to the next is from running in the mix to four ways on in the slow lane. Plugged a filter too.
 
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