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What single 180 t stat?

Nessmuk

Well-Known Member
Messages
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276
Location
East Amazonian polar region
I've been reading and researching and my head is spinning. I am running a single t stat housing. I've no clue if it's a bypass or not type. I'm running the high output pump. Do I want the hockey puck t stat or the unshrouded one, with 2 springs? Anyone have the part number for the 180 degree one?
 
Wohoo! You have the winning crossover. I think that fetches $180 nowdays. If it cracks, dont throw it out- weld it up even if you have to pay for the welding.

Iirc leroy sells it.
 
Yesterday went fubar. Drove up into Vermont. Gauge started bouncing. Was 2 gallons low. Added two and left the cap loose to slow the leak. WRONG! Sprayed coolant all over the air cleaner. Big white cloud, two low again. Bouncy gauge...
Two more in, (I carry a lot), and a tight cap, was good then.
All the t stat parts are here except the t stat.
Today I drop the fuel tank and pull those electric fans.
Ordering an AFE dry media BHAF air cleaner and cover.
 
I always pack along an extra gallon of coolant, an extra quart of oil too, not just in the K3500 but in all of Mine wehicles.
A person just never knows.
Good that You had more than one gallon along. Made a happy ending of what could have been a pretty miserable journey.
did You figure out where the leak is at ?
 
Putting t stat gaskets in it and will go from there. The water pump gasket and the hoses and clamps are new.
After many years I finally bought a coolant system pressure pump. That thing has saved Me a bunch in going down the road grief.
Pump it up, let it set for an hour or so, come back and look at the pressure gauge, if it has moved then I start looking for leaks.
I think that the pump from the auto parts store was about 65 bucks, money well spent.
 
When needing a tool, think of this:
If you cannot fix it right without the tool, you will pay a mechanic to do it for more $. Or worse it will cause major problems costing more. Then once you own the tool, you own it forever and for all your stuff.
 
When needing a tool, think of this:
If you cannot fix it right without the tool, you will pay a mechanic to do it for more $. Or worse it will cause major problems costing more. Then once you own the tool, you own it forever and for all your stuff.
YUP, that is My way of thinking.
Then when I am dead and gone, there`ll be a big O~L auction sale and the wifey will be very happy. LOL
 
I got one, and after replacing the water pump, it held. Now it doesn't.
Down to Napa, got gaskets and antifreeze. Upon leaving, I didn't. Dead starter. Under it I go. Try power direct to the solenoid. Big spark, no start. If I remember right, it's a Napa starter. New reman on the way.
Call the bro for a tow. I think I got home faster than I drove there. I love the smell of the brakes I need to tow down the interstate with.
I got the fans out, and an oem steering cooler in today.
Tomorrow on to the little stuff. Starter, fuel tank, t-stat...
Good ol Amazon, one day shipping my trucks ass. Two and counting on the t-stat.
 
I like clicking the "LIKE" button on most posts, it makes it real fast when I am going therough a page of posts to tell where I left off at.
Nessmuk, I just could not click the like on Your last post. I do not like to see when people are having diffculties and there is nothing to like about that.
Just hang in there and it will get a lot better.
 
It could be a it's LIKE that sometimes click..
All these wunderfull whineese warts we wav wese ways...
Truck had been doing the several clicks before it turned over thing for awhile, been busy with other stuff.
 
It could be a it's LIKE that sometimes click..
All these wunderfull whineese warts we wav wese ways...
Truck had been doing the several clicks before it turned over thing for awhile, been busy with other stuff.
The starter on My truck had also been giving Me the single click, turned out that the solenoid wire was slightly loose.
I did later on remove the starter as the battery cable had worked loose. installed new bearings in it. Been working real nice since then.
After You checked out Your starter, it seems to be a bit deeper than just new bearings though.
 
It could be a it's LIKE that sometimes click..
All these wunderfull whineese warts we wav wese ways...
Truck had been doing the several clicks before it turned over thing for awhile, been busy with other stuff.

Looks like the plague of these bad 6.5 starter solenoids is spreading all over. Click and no spin till you try it a few times. I reported one of the first (and second) FUBAR ones years ago (around 2011) from a local electrical rebuild shop. Regardless I suggest a Powermaster 9052 and call it a day.


Really the Powermaster is worth it: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/the-powermaster-9052-starter-for-6-2-and-6-5.26396/
 
Starter is in. Tank is out. Nothing wrong with the tank. Looks like a tank switching valve issue. I'm going to go to a transfer pump from one tanks supply line to the others breather. Since the tanks are vented at the caps it should work.
 
Tanks back in and ran a bit..
Transfer pump working.
T stat in old one was 195 degree. Double gaskets all around with gasket shellac on the metal sides.
Starter in. Tried it and CLICK, then whir and vroom. Shut it off. Tried it again, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, ...CLICK, whir and vroom.
Oh, fixed a clicky, tinny noise. Loose fan blade bolts. Blue Loc Tite and good to go.
 
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