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What oil do you recommend?

WarWagon said:
I use a local lab: Lab One Inc. The key to good oil samples is to be using the same oil in the engine. Switching brands to what's on sale can mess up your results. Switching to synthetic can flash copper high from the oil cooler on some engines.

Other than finding the limits of the engine oil... Oil filters are really cheap and not all have caught up with the extended drain intervals. Further defective oil filters run for a long time are just that: useless.

Most oil brands are close enough with exceptions like TriboDyn. Synthetic vs. conventional has clear advantages esp. for high heat tolerance. The real consideration for most should be the oil filter.

@MrMarty51 The Mobil1 oil filter is made by The FRAM Group. That company in total has changed hands again recentaly, but, there was a TDR post of a OCOD FRAM that took out a 6.7 Cummins. It was a long Royal Cluster F to get the administrator company to pay for the engine. Most wouldn't use FRAM Toilet Paper, but, may be surprised at who owns and makes what. I was and their "I don't Care Attitude" over a defective filter I wanted to report means you are wasting money on the Mobil1 filter.

I wouldn't use a Wix plastic body fuel filter on a Duramax, but, locally it's the best oil filter available before I go mail order. The XP has wire backed media as new strength. Unlike the E-Core ACDelco cheap cheap cheap design I won't put on my engines anymore.

https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/mobile-1-oil-filter-failure-or-defect.44531/

Tear-O-Later : Purolator in a Bosch can. They are toast (failed) at 3000 miles.

Bosch Purolator oil filter failure.

If you have any Purolator oil filters including brands they make NOW is a good time to remove it from your engine for something else. You can imagine my surprise when I cut this Bosch oil filter open and a pleat was torn on both ends. No I didn't break it, Link: It's a common EPIC Fu#k up for...
www.thetruckstop.us
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I went over to the bobs site too, I dont think I`d have much trust in what a lot of them people was saying.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Good info folks, I've used Oil analyzers mostly, and Blackstone on occasion, I run either Amsoil filters or Baldwin, case priced Baldwin have done very well for me ( I'm almost out of the last case of filters bought 10 years ago). I have one of the earlier Amsoil dual filter remote kits with adapter fitting for the Baldwins I bought from John Kennedy in about 2001.

My rig was parked for a good while as I had a company lease car for 4 years no need to drive the rig, and when fuel prices got so high I was using my 90 C1500 4.3 L gasser as my daily driver.

I've been using my 6.5 truck again as my daily driver since last summer, when the frame on the gasser by steering box was rotted away too much immersion in salt water and it being 1990 vintage.

It looks like I need to maybe migrate to this new to me oil and see how that pans out.

When I was driving the 500 mile commute to work in GA from MS 1500 mile weekly on avg. adding in local driving with
commute I was sampling more frequently , & I kept my "next sample" kit on the shelf to help mitigate wait times I was sampling every 10-15K miles.

This also was when I shifted from the TD07-22A Mitsubishi turbo to the ATT so I had some consistent data points, at same time I dropped the IC as I found I didn't necessarily need it with the ATT & not towing heavy, and probably not needed with the TD07 either but since i had it I ran with it, the IC was needed (mandatory almost IMO) for the original GM-8 turbo once running 10+ psi boost levels and the GM-X turbos being inefficient at high boost levels .
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I used to use Baldwin almost exclusively. The local Baldwin warehouse got shut bought and shut down by FS. Now I run mostly Amsoil and Mobile 1 filters. I also run a bypass filter on. About everything. I don't have one on the 2016 Ford yet. I always ran Amsoil 5w30 heavy Duty DieseEngine Oil. Except when I got a deal on the Mobile 1 and bought a bunch. I ran 20,000 mile oil changes with occassional filter changes and some Blackstone Labs. Haven't been driving much lately
 
FWIW, everybody has their own favorite.

I have used oils from Amsoil AME, Mobil TDT, Walmart Supertech, Mobil Super 1300C, Rotella, etc.
Everything is within the spec and the truck is still running.

So, just pick one of the Diesel rated oil and it should be fine.
They are all within the spec to run this old truck.
 
JMJNet said:
FWIW, everybody has their own favorite.

I have used oils from Amsoil AME, Mobil TDT, Walmart Supertech, Mobil Super 1300C, Rotella, etc.
Everything is within the spec and the truck is still running.

So, just pick one of the Diesel rated oil and it should be fine.
They are all within the spec to run this old truck.
Click to expand...

I agree with Twisted.

Let me clarify what I am saying.

The best oil based on performance (longevity, protection, specification, etc.) is probably suggested by Twisted, the TriboDyn.
He is correct, if people try it, they probably don't want to go back to other oil.

Now, in terms of economy, at least in my mind, it depends on the driving pattern and the condition of the truck.
Driving pattern considering factors like how many miles driven per year, what is the road condition, towing/non-towing, etc.
For my truck, this is the 2nd vehicle so I only drive it within 3000 to 5000 miles a year in the past 10 years.
This year will even be less than that due to the condition that happen right now.
I am not towing, the truck mostly driving in town.
So, the question is putting an oil that cost $20 per quarts worth the money.

Next, the truck condition.
I started the truck by putting Amsoil which is not as expensive as TriboDyn but it is expensive.
The only way to make it worth is by extending the oil change interval which I did.
Then I found out that the engine is burning oil or there are oil leaks from the oil cooler lines (which normal for this truck).
So, putting an expensive oil which is mostly used to oil the road is really not feasible????
Then, I just used the Cheap Wally's Supertech.
At least until, the oil leak is fixed.
After that, I just used the on-sale synthetic diesel oil or Delvac Super 1300S Dino.
The truck will always leak oil somewhere so my reasoning is using the cheaper oil is more sensible.
Not that I don't want to preserve my truck but the value is no more than $3000.

So, there you have it.
If your truck is in tip top conditions, the by any means use the TriboDyn.
You can probably goes 10K OCI or even longer OCI (20k to 30k) with External Bypass oil filter.
But if the truck leaks in any way shape or form, then even the 10K OCI is never going to happen.
You will have to refill every 1000 miles or so.
In which case, you probably don't need to drain and fill oil change since the oil is changed automatically. LOL!!!
 
Yeah, oil leak or burns oil has to be looked at. Most here are running Diesel engine which can have oil burned through the pcv/cdr system. In that case an oil catch can like a provent is worth doing. Especially when the oil is getting first sucked into a turbo and the heat of the turbo causes coking which ruins the seals and shortens turbo life.
 
Seeing as this door was cracked open...

Am not convinced that TriboDyn has the best product for motors with fuel dilution issues. It certainly is good, but needs to get better in order to at least match the competition. My layman take is that TyboDyn should consider a blend with higher TBN to offset the fuel contamination.

For a real-world example with a hybrid vehicle, mileage is about the same as when the motor was on AMSOIL. The change interval with TryboDyn is shorter than when I had the hybrid on AMSOIL's blend with high TBN. With TriboDyn, 2,500 - 3K miles is the common change point where under the high TBN blend I could get another 1K. Analysis comes back with comments that the oil is no longer at its original weight.

For the GTDI motor, it lived too short a life on AMSOIL to have a good comparison against TriboDyn. This motor dumps a lot of fuel in the oil as well and I tend to only run the lube for ~50% of the manufacturer's stated life (the onboard computer determines this figure). Like the hybrid, analysis comes back with comments that the oil's weight is dropping.

The diesel tractor got TriboDyn last year and does seem that the motor likes this lube as it is taking longer to blacken as compared to AMSOIL.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I recommend Rotella T-6 full synthetic 5-40 weight.
It seems to show slightly lower on the oil pressure gauge in the summer when the engine gets quite a bit some warmer, but, that engine cranks quit a bit faster when the temps gets cold. zeros and below Fahrenheit.
I would like to try the oil that @Twisted Steel Performance sells but just can not afford that for now.
I dont know how good they are or, who makes them, I been using the Mobil one filters too.
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Mobil 1 filters are manufactured by Allied Filter, parent company of Fram and Champ. Every filter brand manufactured by Allied had tested out as crap for quality. (HINT: EVERY brand of filter, with the exception of K&N, that Walmart carries is manufactured by Allied or one of its subsidiaries. That includes all Fram, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and the AC Delco and MOPAR branded oil filters).

I only use Wix extended synthetic or NAPA Gold filters in all of my vehicles.
 
I still think running a screen in place of filter to increase flow, reduce restriction, and run a centrifuge when parked at home for an hour Or two at 110 psi with drain and supply hoses on quick connections would be a great method. Then a preoiler/ accumulator to charge system before starting. You would be starting out with oil completely void of contamination each time.
 
Will L. said:
I still think running a screen in place of filter to increase flow, reduce restriction, and run a centrifuge when parked at home for an hour Or two at 110 psi with drain and supply hoses on quick connections would be a great method. Then a preoiler/ accumulator to charge system before starting. You would be starting out with oil completely void of contamination each time.
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I think if the oil was run through a centrifuge just once a week it would vastly increase the life of the engine and the oil.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I think if the oil was run through a centrifuge just once a week it would vastly increase the life of the engine and the oil.
Click to expand...
When I was USN we had dedicated centrifuges for just that very reason, for MRG main reduction gear oil, CPP oil for propeller system, and we even spun dirty fuel into clean fuel for the turbines to make the ship go all way down to 2.64 mg/L maximum solid and <.01 PPM water in fuel. Wish I could afford a real purifier, something along lines like this https://scindustrialsales.com/indus...former-oil-purification/portable-oil-purifier
 
Turbine Doc said:
When I was USN we had dedicated centrifuges for just that very reason, for MRG main reduction gear oil, CPP oil for propeller system, and we even spun dirty fuel into clean fuel for the turbines to make the ship go all way down to 2.64 mg/L maximum solid and <.01 PPM water in fuel. Wish I could afford a real purifier, something along lines like this https://scindustrialsales.com/indus...former-oil-purification/portable-oil-purifier
Click to expand...
Yeah, it ain't like you can just pull over in the middle of the Pacific at a Jiffy Lube for a quick change of main prop shaft bearing oil!
 
Turbine Doc said:
When I was USN we had dedicated centrifuges for just that very reason, for MRG main reduction gear oil, CPP oil for propeller system, and we even spun dirty fuel into clean fuel for the turbines to make the ship go all way down to 2.64 mg/L maximum solid and <.01 PPM water in fuel. Wish I could afford a real purifier, something along lines like this https://scindustrialsales.com/indus...former-oil-purification/portable-oil-purifier
Click to expand...
Heck, even 3 gallons a minute would be a great machine.
 
The regular oil pressure driven centrifuge does 60 gph. When it is at 110psi (up to 130 psi) it separates to 0.1 um (1/10th of one micron).

Oil and water have optimum separation at 195 degrees- thats where all the refineries run it at in prep stage of crude oil just for that reason. 10 degrees hotter or colder and separation takes 50% longer. (In case anyone wants to plan out a system.)
 
Husker6.5 said:
Mobil 1 filters are manufactured by Allied Filter, parent company of Fram and Champ. Every filter brand manufactured by Allied had tested out as crap for quality. (HINT: EVERY brand of filter, with the exception of K&N, that Walmart carries is manufactured by Allied or one of its subsidiaries. That includes all Fram, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and the AC Delco and MOPAR branded oil filters).

I only use Wix extended synthetic or NAPA Gold filters in all of my vehicles.
Click to expand...

Who owns what and who makes what is a moving target. Champion labs makes the K&N oil filter unless it's changed. If so can you post up who makes them, NOW?

Last I checked, and again re-labeling and who owns what is a moving target, it was made by a FRAM company. Aka The FRAM Group owns Champion Labs.

Trico now Owns The FRAM Group.

www.autoserviceworld.com

Trico acquires Fram Group; analysts see risks in deal - Auto Service World

Fram's filters and Autolite spark plugs brands included in deal reported to be worth US$310 million
www.autoserviceworld.com
 
You're right about the ever-changing buyout/acquisition/brand name scene. How about this 100% accurate blanket statement: EVERY brand of oil filter Walmart currently sells is junk and a piece of crap not to be installed in any vehicle.
 
Husker6.5 said:
You're right about the ever-changing buyout/acquisition/brand name scene. How about this 100% accurate blanket statement: EVERY brand of oil filter Walmart currently sells is junk and a piece of crap not to be installed in any vehicle.
Click to expand...

Interesting, we have 230K miles on a 4Runner using nothing but various Fram filters purchased at Walmart.
 
Big T said:
Interesting, we have 230K miles on a 4Runner using nothing but various Fram filters purchased at Walmart.
Click to expand...
And what's your oil change interval and the condition of the oil at each change, just out of curiosity? The issues with Fram and Allied Group filters is how cheaply they're made and what size they filter down to at what % of filtration per pass. They use less filter media, edge glue the media, press fit internal support instead of spot weld, no internal cap on the media to keep it in place. Even the "long life" made for extended interval changes with synthetic oils still are no better built than their standard filters. That's why many of us go with the much better built, better filtering and better particle retention of the Wix long life synthetic, Baldwin and NAPA Gold filters when running extended oil change intervals with synthetic oil. I'd rather run with a premium filter that will go 12K miles per filter change than a cheaper cost and built Allied, regardless of level (standard, hi-mileage engine or synthetic oil) of filter, that is only good to basically 3K miles and it's done.
 
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