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What I did today

Will L. said:
Yeah WarWagon is right. They covered all this stuff when I went through training classes Bendix for working on big rigs many moons ago.

Warping the rotors- it's just uneven heating or cooling of the entire surface. Think about how you would do it if you were trying to. Get it hot then allow one side to cool down while trapping heat on the other.

Either after hard stopping letting the brake pads & caliper cover one area while the other is exposed to air can cause it. Picture glowing hot red formula 1 rotors- now cover 20% of that area with those nice Brembos and wait 1 minute. Now take a temp reading of the part exposed to the air, then he part under the brake pads. You'll have a big temperature difference.

So can having them hot (just below Leidenfrost point) and a nice blast of water from a puddle. The metal gaurd next to the rotor isn't just there to stop a rock chip, it's to shield it from a water deluge and trying to allow an even cooling around the rotor. A single uneven tempering will harden one area by pulling the carbon in the metal to that area. Now that high carbon count area is going to cool slightly slower than the rest. It isn't going to happen in 1 minute, this process takes longer to effect it.

Bigger & thicker rotors fight it by forcing having more material to heat up, and releasing the heat at a lower rate. Drilled,slotted, or combo rotors try the opposite of dumping all the heat as fast as possible so by the time your sitting in traffic or parking the vehicle the heat has already been dispersed.

Sometimes you just have poor design or material that no matter how well you treat it, your conditions kill rotors. GM trucks use a really high carbon steel so that most normal applications have little problems. The trade off is heavy towing, loaded mountain driving, or heavy traffic braking suffers. Since these groups fall to the minority it a better economic choice for GM.

On the Honda idk what their design fall is. They have always been later to market with newest technology trying to avoid problems like this. For as innovative as they are in racing, they're very conservative in production. All the (brand loyal) Honda techs I know really get aggravated by the Audi guys bringing this up.
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Had my wonderful experiences with Mercedes which touts its cars as industry leading technology. Basically if you want to show off that you've got a Mercedes, you're better off leasing them and make it a short lease term because the repair costs of the later years will eat you alive. I'd include Audi and BMW in that same category. At least with Honda, the repairs are few and they're cheap when they do occur. Honda is a car you buy.
 
I hit 4 different Pick a Part boneyards on Saturday. They were having their 40% off sale which drew in crowds like crazy.

I was able to find some decent GMT 800 brake rotors, LF caliper (for core), ceiling light. The 2500HD in Hesperia had been stripped of brake calipers front and rear, which rendered the 14 bolt FF 4.10 undesirable to me. I got the LF caliper off the truck that I had previously remove the axle from. The RF caliper and lower control arm were gone. In Anaheim they had a really beat up 3500 truck with rusty brake calipers. I may go grab the RF to use as a core.

A note on buying the clippers as cores, it only makes sense money wise when they have these sales. When you purchase reman calipers from RockAuto, the core charges and return shipping costs make it a wash unless you get them at these sales and that does not factor in your time. I jusified the time factor because I was also looking for other things.
 
Yeah, my Mercedes is an 87, when they were still trying to grow themselves in the US market. They were doing the same thing as Honda, only running proven technology to the customer base. The ones they were selling in Europe had all the experimental stuff in it. 10 years later they started selling it here and that's when there cost of ownership through repairs went through the roof.

Parts cost for my little 87 IDI diesel has been a pleasent surprise. I'm 2nd owner, the first problem I had was the PO had the IP resealed, but they didn't put back on the injection line mounts, so one line started cracking, just like the 6.5 does right at the injector nut. All 6 new lines from the dealership, half were in stock still and they ordered the others in - 3 day wait- $75 total. This was 4 years ago. Ever price out 6.5 lines? Last week I picked up a starter, original gave out 150,000 miles or so, from dealership $255 new not reman. Way cheaper parts than 6.5 and new still available at the dealership. Fast forward to a 2000 MB and forget it- parts are 2-3 times a Chevy. I will say I like their parts commitment. Can't buy new starters from the dealer for Chevy, ford,dodge for anything from 1990. I hate to think what a 2015 part costs from MB.

Love driving my hummer or my trucks when I had them, it's just enjoyable. The MB is just to get me somewhere faster than my boots.

BMW and Audi have always been stupid expensive. My wife drove an 85(?) Audi when we met. Being the wrench turner new boyfriend, I offered to replace the turn signal switch to here dad (intending to buy the switch even). He said no, had it done by a mechanic at his work. Out of interest I looked up price and labor the next day- HOLY MACKERAL! $920 switch. 7 hours labor. 2 special tools required.

Look at the ABS systems how long did Honda wait to implement compared to everyone else? But when they finally put it in, very few issues. They let other mfr's figure out most of it then installed a system with just about everything trouble free. Ever see a paddle shifter in a Honda? What Honda has a turbo? They just let the other guys fight the headache, loose the customers that have to get the newest phone within the first week it's out, and sell millions of proven technology to everyone else who just wants to go from A to B reliably. I've said for years if they ever produce a full size truck the big 3 are going to be hurting.

Oh wait - What I did today... Woke up no alarm clock at a late 6:30 ish?, and read TTS forum and wrote a mini novel on this thread. Plan on eating some ham and painting some eggs with my family in a few...

Happy Easter folks enjoy the real reason for today...our future homecoming.
 
2005 Honda, 129K miles, manual 5 speed transmission. The only repairs I've had were a VTEC sensor that went out ($60 part at dealer, installed like a spark plug) and relacing the CV axles. I've had CV axles split the boot on Hondas, but never had them wear the inside joint like the recent, but others have had the same issue with this model era Accord. Honda still makes the Accord with a manual transmission and the industry still raves over it. Lot more fun to drive than one of CVT auto trannies.

I will probably buy a new 4Runner later this year and just give this Accord to my son. It should be good for another 150K miles. And that is why you buy Hondas and Toyotas and only lease that German crap if you so have to have it.
 
dangerousdave said:
Big T, do prefer the pick a part by the 91 or Beach or Katella? They're not all the same!
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Haven't even been to the one by the 91. Went to the one on Beach for the first time yesterday. Their truck selection was weak. I like the one in Ontario and I'm really developing a liking for the one out in Hesperia.
 
95 Camry 2.2 4cyl auto. 330+K miles and still humming along. They're bullet proof as long as you don't wreck them.

Miss my old '82 Audi 5000 turbodiesel. Weak-ass cooling systems WAY too small radiators mounted off to the side at an angle with shitty airflow killed many N/A and turbo'ed diesel 5000's. That 5-banger 2.2 diesel was just too long for that engine compatment (as was the 5-cylinder gasser) but the increased BTU output of the IDI was too much for the offset radiator, even with the small heater core-sized auxillary radiator in front of the engine to help bleed off some of the head's heat before dumping it into the radiator. Days over 98-100 were hell on them in town, as well as extended Interstate runs with the A/C on. You could idle them down for 30 minutes, and the electric fan would STILL be running and the temp gauge would be just below the red zone. There was just no air circulation through a too-small radiator. But I loved the car, except for the vacuum-controlled door lock system that always had a leak somewhere.

My early 80's Subarus (yes, plural) were bullet proof mechanically with over 200,000 miles on two of them, but they tended to rust out bad here with all the road salt.
 
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