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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Big T said:
I have NEVER been able to find foam for the ‘94 bucket seats. So if you do, please spread the love.
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I might attempt to do something with mine. I'm not fond of sitting sideways LOL drivers side to the door is down but not ripped. the seats I did notice on it seems to have the fabric held with zippers. one on the back going up the center and I think I saw one somewhere for the seat of the pants part too. doesn't look like too much work to open it up to have a looksee if the foam is a similar shape as the 95+
 
dbrannon79 said:
I was looking at the CKO provent 200's on the jungle site (I'm not posting a link since I am seeing some sort of associate thing in my links) the prices are around $40, they also are showing the real filters separately. I also started thinking about what was inside the CDR. there was an extra one in the parts pile that came with the truck. pulling it out I can see it's basically an empty tuna can with a spring and baffle inside.

the thought occurred to me to stuff a stainless pot scrubber into the bottom (valve cover side) of the CDR so there would be something surface area wise for the oil to grab on to as it passes into the CDR. this might allow some of the oil to collect and drain back into the valve cover minimizing the amount of oil that would go into the catch can. whats your thoughts on this?

as far as finding the ideal place to mount the provent catch can, I was thinking if it could be mounted on the firewall up so that the drain hose from it might be able to be routed around and down to the oil fill neck. I have a couple of oil fill necks that have an extra hose port on them. the older 6.2's had the CDR connected there instead of the valve cover. I could reduce that hose down to the 1/4" line for the catch can drain, not unless I can have a 1/4" barb brazed onto the side of the factory oil fill tube allowing it to continually drain back into the engine.
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I seen some pics of the CDR in place, a hose run to the provent and another hose from the provent to the turbo hose where the CDR normally attaches to.
The Provent was mounted to the radiator shroud to the RH side.
I think that is a Quadstar configuration.
 
Off the wall odd question.... Drivers door window. yesterday as I was leaving work I opened the door, hopped in and turned the key on. waiting for the glow plug light to go off I tried lowering the drivers window with the door open. no go.... after the WTS light was off I tried it again and still no window operation.

close the door and still nothing. only after cranking up the truck did the window function! my 95 truck does this same thing, is this a common thing here?

also not to mention on the 93 the drivers windows won't continue to go down after the button press like my 95 does.
 
Just out of curiosity on the 93 truck. What is this factory relay for and the fuse ? Fuse is on the left side of the junction bus bar and relay on the right. I’m assuming it’s for the lift pump but if so. Is it just for cranking or is it tied between the ops and the LP?

image.jpg
 
dbrannon79 said:
Off the wall odd question.... Drivers door window. yesterday as I was leaving work I opened the door, hopped in and turned the key on. waiting for the glow plug light to go off I tried lowering the drivers window with the door open. no go.... after the WTS light was off I tried it again and still no window operation.

close the door and still nothing. only after cranking up the truck did the window function! my 95 truck does this same thing, is this a common thing here?

also not to mention on the 93 the drivers windows won't continue to go down after the button press like my 95 does.
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I have issues with the driver’s side window on the ‘99. Sometimes it works and sometimes it don’t. Eventually it does work. Need to disassemble the door to do some tests to find out whether it’s a wiring issue, switch issue, or an issue with the motor.

 
Glagulator said:
LP relay during CRANK only.
Fuse is for LP.
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Thanks.

so I'm curious if I really needs a relay for during crank only. not sure if it actually works since while cranking I see the fuel pressure gauge drop to 0 for a split second then back up as soon as I let off the key. maybe something else I can eliminate while cleaning up wiring the PO added.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Thanks.

so I'm curious if I really needs a relay for during crank only. not sure if it actually works since while cranking I see the fuel pressure gauge drop to 0 for a split second then back up as soon as I let off the key. maybe something else I can eliminate while cleaning up wiring the PO added.
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IDK, I thought that relay functioned as soon as there is oil pressure.
Maybe after the engine is running pull that relay.
If enjun dont die then for chranking only
 
I just had a real scare this evening. not sure what happened, but I was driving the 93 back from a friends house moving slow through the neighborhood and all of a sudden the engine goosed it's self for a split second as if I bliped the pedal. it drove the rest of the way home find but that blip scared the 💩 out of me thinking it attempted to run away! Or at least that was the thoughts that went though my mind.

I have noticed the last few times I have been out in it and when I shut the engine off, it has been "diesel-ing" as if a couple of injectors fired after the key was turned off.

Please tell me I'm just imaging things here and it's fine.

I have not ordered a catch can for it yet, but I'm wondering if there was some oil that pooled up in the intake and the engine just drank it causing the blip.
 
MrMarty51 said:
IDK, I thought that relay functioned as soon as there is oil pressure.
Maybe after the engine is running pull that relay.
If enjun dont die then for chranking only
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Engine shouldn't die without the lift pump. The lift pump is flow through on fail.

But the fuel pressure gauge should tell you what's going on.

My 1994 is a mess of added inline fuses - partially my doing and partially the previous owner when he added gauges.

There's a red 10 ga. wire folded back that we assumed was the hot wire to the trailer plug. But we can't find the other end.
 
we had a cold front blow in last night so it's too cold for me to pull apart the intake. I did pull the CDR and tubing for it, checked and didn't see any pooling oil in there. So not sure what caused the engine to blip the throttle on it's own yesterday evening. starting the engine up in 45 deg windy weather I checked the blowby from the oil cap and there was hardly anything. as it warmed up the blowby got worse same as my 95. Both trucks need a catch can though.

I did however finally calibrate the VSSB so the speedo is accurate according to the GPS. I was able to do most of that work inside soldering dip switches on the drac / vssb and calibrated according to the site linked below though the chart is inaccurate with their math equation. I had the same issue when I did the one on the 95 truck and had to keep playing with the switches till I got it close. this time it was much easier since I was able to do it in the driveway with the rear wheels off the ground. the TCI tcm uses the speed sensor directly and will read speed. watching the TCI display I was able to calibrate it. then went for a drive to verify with the GPS,



While I was at it I found the carrier bearing is going out. it's making a roar noise so that will need to be addressed soon. I will wait for another nicer day for that work.
 
Yesterday during the day I did manage to get more wires cleaned up and got to mount the TCI unit. also removed the live fuel pressure line and gauge from the cab. eliminated that fire hazard!!

the fuel line to the gauge was tee'd off at the hose going to the IP just before it went under the intake. (photo below) I pulled and capped the fitting there for now. at some point I want to pull the intake and replace all the hoses. Not sure why all the fitting are there. both this line going to the gauge and the return lines to and from the remote shut off solenoid are using some type of push-lock fitting with some clear plastic tubing. I doubt they are rated for fuel or heat. the push-lock fitting on the shut off solenoid was seaping fuel so I swapped it for the one I pulled off the gauge (photo below) I need to get this tubing and fittings off and run regular barbs and fuel line.

the last photo is the wiring clean up I did. I pulled the tcm out of a plastic box that was just laying behind the battery, re-routed the harness and mounted it on the inner fender next to a power junction block. that junction block will be getting replaced soon with a fuse panel. The relays are there, two are for the headlights the PO installed, one is for the LP that I installed and the last one is for the fuel pump the PO mounted in the bed of the truck. I also extended the wires in the tcu harness for the handheld display and an optional paddle manual shifter and ran them both into the cab ( you can see two small wire looms going into the cab with a grommet just below the cruise control connector on the firewall) Now I can connect the handheld TCI programmer from inside the cab and use it without having to run it's cables out the drivers window and under the hood! :)

I still have more clean up to do on the main engine harness yet. doing some a little at a time. don't mind the splicing up by the glow plug controller I cobbled up. that will get permantly done later when I do the main harness.

IMG_4885.jpg

the fuel shutoff solenid closeup. you can see these push lock connectors on it and on the IP return.
IMG_4886.jpg

this is the tubing... not sure if this is fuel rated.
IMG_4887.jpg

Ignore the fuel filter.... I had to do this since the FFM that was mounted here started pouring out fuel the other day. I pulled it and it's mounting the PO made completely out and used this as a temporairy fix. still deciding on what type of filter unit I want and where I want to mount it yet.
Thinking about mounting something down on the frame along with relocating the LP near the factory location.
IMG_4884.jpg
 
Today I’m finally finding time to put a new driver side door latch and striker bolt on my 96 gmc truck.The old latch and striker bolt are worn beyond recognition and the door won’t even stay closed.I’ve had the truck in the garage ever since this problem occurred so hoping today to at least have the new latch into place.
 
Well at least the new latch is put into place.The door is still all apart but at least now it’s functional.I just need to put the new striker bolt on.Napa has one in my area.
 

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@Will L. @WarWagon @ak diesel driver I need some help. I just opened up my intake didn't find any oil pooled up so I proceeded to swap out the top of the IP from the engine I had in the back with a working fuel shut off solenoid. got it installed and now it won't start.

there is two spade tabs on the top of the IP one in the right rear and one about the middle right side. which one is the one I need 12v to when the key is on?
 
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