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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Paveltolz said:
Hood repaint project.
Working in sections, removed the old paint with 100 Grit on a DA sander. Followed up with 220 and then an Eastwood Contour Surface Conditioning Tool (SCT).
View attachment 86114


120 Grit and DA
View attachment 86112

220 DA on the left, Eastwood SCT w/120 on the right.
View attachment 86113

Etch Primer followed by Filler Primer and scuffed w/800.
View attachment 86117
Rustolium ‘Automotive’ white. Lots of overspray cleverly blocked by proper photo angle so…
View attachment 86116
…needs quick color sand w/ 800 etc. but, I came up hot for COVID a few days ago so, for the time being, I’m just chilling, hacking up the occasional lung and keeping Tylenol, Musinex and Sudafed in business. So far, just a bad summer cold type symptoms.
Spousal unit tested positive too but, follow up test today shows she’s clean.
Click to expand...
Looks pretty good for a rattle can effort.
 
Considering making a trip out to the pick a part yard this weekend to search out some odds and ends. I thought I would pop a question here. this 93 truck has those large square headlights, but used to have the quad sealed beams. I have in the parts slew, both of the quad sealed beam headlights with the mounting brackets. the wiring is still on the truck for them too. I was curious if the 95-99 grille will work with those quad sealed beams or if that grille was a one of a kind.

I figured I would see if I could spot a good grille out there though 95% of the time they are all broken or someone has already snagged them by the time I get there LOL.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Considering making a trip out to the pick a part yard this weekend to search out some odds and ends. I thought I would pop a question here. this 93 truck has those large square headlights, but used to have the quad sealed beams. I have in the parts slew, both of the quad sealed beam headlights with the mounting brackets. the wiring is still on the truck for them too. I was curious if the 95-99 grille will work with those quad sealed beams or if that grille was a one of a kind.

I figured I would see if I could spot a good grille out there though 95% of the time they are all broken or someone has already snagged them by the time I get there LOL.
Click to expand...
Grills are almost always broken. If they aren’t, then they are severely weather beaten.
 
Very true. even though, if I were to find one somewhere like how I ran across the one on my 95 (FB marketplace) are the newer grilles that used the composite style lights compatible or would excess trimming need to be done to make it work?
 
Well last night I replaced the drivers side upper ball joint on the 93 truck. Boy that was a PIA, the ball joints are still riveted in from the factory. I had to grind off the heads, then it still wouldn't come off. ended up pulling the control arm off the truck so I could beat the crap out of it with a sledge. finally got the old one off and the new one installed.

This morning I finished buttoning up the truck. checked the front wheel bearings and packed in some grease, greased all the steering joints. Then swapped the tires and wheels from my 95 on to the 93. Drove out to the pick a part yard which was about 35-40ish miles of freeway driving. the truck drove perfectly. No issues trans or engine wise, no leaks that I can tell. Oil and coolant was still full after my return trip.

Picked up the missing piece of shifter linkage I need to put back the column shifter along with hot/cold damper door actuator motor so maybe I can get the air box from being stuck on heat. I could just get a new one, but I figured I would try my luck on a used one. the main thing I was after was the linkage for the shifter.

Overall the trip went well and don't see any drips in the driveway yet LOL.
 
Did some more electric cleanup on the wiring in the 93 truck. Also installed the column shifter and pulled out the TCI floor shifter. Not sure what I will do with this floor shifter. there was a load of wiring I ended up pulling out of the truck. several power leads that were going though the firewall I found were chafed and some actually cut into since the hole in the firewall has no grommet. I also found a 1/4" tubing going through the same hole which was a live feed from the fuel lines to a gauge. I had thought it had a idolator but I was mistaken. This was a real fire hazard!

I still need more cleanup to do along with removing the fuel line going to the gauge. Started messing with the GV OD unit since the auto part isn't working, only in manual will work. I need to find the install and operation manual for it specific for these trucks.

Here are a couple of pics on the shifter.

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Forgot to mention that I also re-wired the glow plug system. I pulled the remote solenoid for the manual switch and pulled the old 93 style oem glow plug relay. Swapped it out for a newer style glow plug relay like the one used on my 95, wired it up to a programmable timed delay relay which I set to stay on for 8 seconds when the key is turned on. I left the manual switch wired in the circuit so that if the 8 seconds isn't enough in the cold weather I can add more time.

then after that was all working with the key, I found there wasn't a relay on the OPS switch powering the LP. So I added a relay for that along with wiring it into the glow plug system so that when the key is turned on the LP also runs for the same 8 seconds to prime and pressure up the fuel system before cranking. I had this same setup on my 95 truck with the time delay relay and it worked flawlessly until I finally was able to program the PCM to do this on it's own. So this time delay relay came in handy!


I have it located inside the lid of the fuse box in the dash, but I need to get a box for it. it came as a bare circuit board and can short on something if not careful.

Edit: I just looked and found the same relay with a plastic box. I might order this one to replace the one I have.

 
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dbrannon79 said:
Don't know why that amazon associate thing popped up on my last post. I tried to edit it to remove but couldn't figure it out. must be something with the link.
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You sure You aint been hacked ?
My mgexperience forum account was hacked. Someone was advertising MG 💩 in my name.
No takers fortunate enough.
Then my gmsquarebody account was also hacked. Same thing. Advertising SB components under my name.
One guy sent a payment for an electronical speedo, through PP but he used the friends and family method so PP wouldnt set it right.
His payment was through his local credit union and whatever the charges was I am sure he is going to have to pay it.
 
MrMarty51 said:
You sure You aint been hacked ?
My mgexperience forum account was hacked. Someone was advertising MG 💩 in my name.
No takers fortunate enough.
Then my gmsquarebody account was also hacked. Same thing. Advertising SB components under my name.
One guy sent a payment for an electronical speedo, through PP but he used the friends and family method so PP wouldnt set it right.
His payment was through his local credit union and whatever the charges was I am sure he is going to have to pay it.
Click to expand...
I will have to look. I had posted in a new thread I made and posted another link from the jungle site, that associate thing came up again.
 
Well today after work I figured I would tinker a little on the 93 truck. I wanted to pull off the wire holding the wastegate closed and do something so that it won't go into overboost. the PO had given me a turbomaster that he had gotten from Heath diesel. I figured that would be better than it being wire tied shut. got that installed and adjusted it so the spring is at 2-3/4" as searching online others were saying they did theirs at 2-1/2". I don't need high boost pressures the way I drive.

below are the pics. I still have some more wiring cleanup since I discovered there is another relay for the lift pump and I just wired in one when I re-wired the glow plug controller and set it up so it would prime as the glow plugs were on. No need for two relays.

image_50432257.JPG
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While I was there I checked all the fluids. Well... I think I will be slowing down on restoring this truck back to having everything in a "unmolested factory state" I have only driven it about 240 miles since I changed the oil. I had to add almost a full quart to get it back to the full mark. mind you I had slightly overfilled it when I changed the oil.

it's got some blowby but not to the point it blows the oil fill cap off placing it upside down on the fill tube. I had pulled the air cleaner off to install the turbo master and noticed the tube and the turbo was very oily like it's sucking oil from the valve cover and through the cdr. it needs an oil catch can but I fear that won't be enough to slow down the oil loss. It's not leaving any drips on the driveway and I don't see anything fresh looking underneath.

I think maybe trying the oil catch can will be my next step along with pulling the upper intake and cleaning everything up then watching the oil levels and how fast it fills the catch can.

sadly this truck seems to have more umph than my 95 does.
 
Get a can of engine restore in there. One of the only “fix in a can” worth it.
Everyone that has done compression tests before and after sees an improvement.
In fact- if I can convince you to doing compression test before and after- it would show you and others that here it could help.

And heck yeah get the provent on there. Search the thread where we covered this a while back. Get the ebay cko, then buy the real filter piece. The filter they make is amazingly better than the nearest competitor and why it works well- the real filter is a MUST.
 
I was looking at the CKO provent 200's on the jungle site (I'm not posting a link since I am seeing some sort of associate thing in my links) the prices are around $40, they also are showing the real filters separately. I also started thinking about what was inside the CDR. there was an extra one in the parts pile that came with the truck. pulling it out I can see it's basically an empty tuna can with a spring and baffle inside.

the thought occurred to me to stuff a stainless pot scrubber into the bottom (valve cover side) of the CDR so there would be something surface area wise for the oil to grab on to as it passes into the CDR. this might allow some of the oil to collect and drain back into the valve cover minimizing the amount of oil that would go into the catch can. whats your thoughts on this?

as far as finding the ideal place to mount the provent catch can, I was thinking if it could be mounted on the firewall up so that the drain hose from it might be able to be routed around and down to the oil fill neck. I have a couple of oil fill necks that have an extra hose port on them. the older 6.2's had the CDR connected there instead of the valve cover. I could reduce that hose down to the 1/4" line for the catch can drain, not unless I can have a 1/4" barb brazed onto the side of the factory oil fill tube allowing it to continually drain back into the engine.
 
This morning on eBay I purchased a driver side seat foam pad for my 96 gmc truck.I redid the seats back in 2014-15 with new tan vinyl covers,armrest,headrests,etc but at the time the driver side foam pad wasn’t in the greatest of shape but I plan to fix it soon with this new replacement.Total cost was $133 delivered.
 

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