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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Well I think I'm on to something. I did some toying with the 93 today and discovered something...

I noticed that when the trans is in park or neutral the speedo goes up to about 10-20 mph and when you put it into drive or reverse the speedo goes to zero. this got me to thinking.... I bet the speed sensors are connected backwards. I slid under the truck and just disconnected to front speed sensor, put the truck on stands and tried it. Speedo no workie but it still shifts hard. disconnected the rear sensor and connected the connector from the front to the rear sensor, now with it on the stands, the speedo works but no shifts.

I think the speed sensor connectors were plugged in backwards from the get go and then he tied into the wrong sensor wires for the trans controller. I need to talk to him more and see where in the harness he tied into the speed sensors for the trans controller. This way I can switch to the correct one.
 
I finally got the wiring figured out for the speedometer. not sure if it's right but it works now. the trans controller has it's own connector that takes up the rear output speed sensor but I also needed to connect the factory connector to the same sensor to make the speedo work. so I did the next best thing. I used a couple of wire taps and tied the two connectors together as one so they both could use the same sensor. I will try driving it tomorrow to see if the speedo is reading accurate.


One thing I am curious about since this truck has an aftermarket TCI floor shifter. I was told that after the trans was replaced, that the factory linkage for the column shifter would not fit so this aftermarket floor shifter was installed. I would like to put the factory column shifter back and get rid of this floor shifter. it works similar to a old school hurst shifter and is driving me nuts, it's not easy to get it in and out of gear. you have to get the pull lever in just the right position before you can move the lever to each gear selection!

How is the shift linkage on these trucks setup from factory and what dose the shift lever look like that is supposed to be on the trans? I am wondering if a shift cable can be used to connect to the factory column shifter. I think these trucks used rods for shifter linkage.
 
Did a little more wrenching on the 93 today. Gave the truck and engine compartment a good bath, the engine was nasty due to the turbo oil line blowing oil over everything. Cleaned up some wiring under the hood, and then it happened!!! I cranked it up for the first time today and before I could get from the drivers door to the open hood, fuel was pouring out from the drivers side fender and all over the driveway! a gully washer. I shut if off quick and went to check what happened. Found the FFM top cap was not just leaking but gushing from where it threads on to the FFM housing! BTW it's been relocated to the drivers fender. I checked to make sure it was tight and it was, pulled the cap off and it all looked good, re-installed and used the under hood prime switch that was installed. Still a gusher. I went and grabbed my old FFM I had removed from my truck and tried the cap from it, but still no dice.

I ended up pulling it out completely looking it over but didn't see any signs of a crack on the body or the cap, the o-ring on both caps looked good still, so I ended up bypassing it with a small in-line fuel filter temporarily. while I was pulling the hoses off, I discovered the main fuel supply hose was terribly deteriorated from the inside. the inner rubber stayed on the barb on both the FFM and the lift pump mounted under the hood! It's a wonder this hose hasn't blown up on me. replaced the hose from the LP to the filter, connected to an in-line filter and bled the air off. I suppose I will need to order a remote mount filter like I used on my 95, also will need to remove the intake and replace all the rubber fuel hoses

While I was cleaning up some wiring, I found what looks like a trans main connector going to a small box which only has two wires coming out of the box and into the truck. it was tucked down in the drivers inner fender right where the drivers side hood hinge is located. I asked deejaaa what this was and he said it was the factory trans connector harness. somehow I find this hard to believe with it only having two wires to control the trans.

Here's some pics of the two trucks side by side after a bath and the trans connector I found.

IMG_4794.jpgIMG_4793.jpgIMG_4791.jpg
 
From rockauto this evening I bought a Sparta/delphi electric lift pump for my 96 gmc with the 6.2.I just need to find a proper mounting clamp to fasten it to the chassis.The Sparta is part number pn5000 from a 99 7.3 powerstroke F350 that delivers 43 psi so I’m going to run a diesel rx brand fuel pressure regulator that can handle pressure from 7-70psi.

I thought about buying the raptor pump but this Sparta seems pretty good so I’d like to try this setup instead.

I’ll buy the regulator pretty soon but I think it’s a step in the right direction by going this route in keeping the DS4 happy by having at least 10 psi fuel pressure with the engine running at the injection pump.I plan to use jic fittings like what is pictured on the regulator.Its the same type fittings I have on my fuel filter housings.Let me know what you guys think.
 

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dieselolds said:
From rockauto this evening I bought a Sparta/delphi electric lift pump for my 96 gmc with the 6.2.I just need to find a proper mounting clamp to fasten it to the chassis.The Sparta is part number pn5000 from a 99 7.3 powerstroke F350 that delivers 43 psi so I’m going to run a diesel rx brand fuel pressure regulator that can handle pressure from 7-70psi.

I thought about buying the raptor pump but this Sparta seems pretty good so I’d like to try this setup instead.

I’ll buy the regulator pretty soon but I think it’s a step in the right direction by going this route in keeping the DS4 happy by having at least 10 psi fuel pressure with the engine running at the injection pump.I plan to use jic fittings like what is pictured on the regulator.Its the same type fittings I have on my fuel filter housings.Let me know what you guys think.
Click to expand...
It think you’re going where no 6.5 has gone before.
 
The Sparta pump only cost $80 delivered and the regulator is $99 US bucks which isn’t bad either.The jic fittings are sold separately which I can buy here locally but the mounting bracket comes with it.I also have a small fuel pressure gauge I can thread into the regulator so I can adjust it under the truck while I still have the electric fuel pressure gauge on the pillar.
 
I just ordered a Facuet dura-lift pump for mine. supposed to be able to pull just at good as pushing fuel. there is one installed on the 93 I bought and doesn't seem to have any issues with the demand (volume) under load. pressures are staying right at 7-9 no matter what.

in the 93 it's mounted under the hood. my plan is to do the same with my 95 mounting under the hood while just bypassing the factory one with a hose and clamps. I will keep the connections there and factory wiring in case I ever need to re-connect it as a fail safe backup option.
 
It's been a long time in the making. I had to look back at my fuel app (link in my sig) and saw where I've only tracked 13k miles since August of 21.

What appeals to me is back when I looked up the casing numbers on the block and confirming this was the original engine, on top of the block damage on the starter mount making this one a ticking time bomb. not sure about the trans, maybe there are some numbers on it I can look for too.

today we drove out to see Deejaaa and picked up the spare parts he had for his old truck along with the TCU programmer. When I reached out and made a deal to purchase the truck, I honestly did not know what I would do with a second 6.5 truck. For a while I had been on the lookout for a parts truck or good spare engine to keep mine going. Now that have made the purchase of a running and driving truck almost identical to mine body wise, only a couple years older and with a few upgrades, I want to fix this one up as good as mine has been if not better.

His has about 285k on it but has a 99 engine and a trans from a 96.

He gave me a set of rims with spacers that he had on the truck a few years back, they are 19.5" rims and with the old tires still on them, they are real heavy. the steel on the mount face of them has to be at least 1/4" thick. I'm not entirely sure what they are made for or their purpose. He has a photo of them on the truck here in this thread if someone can tell me what they are.

Edit: Found them. they are HI-RAIL wheels made for use on the railways. when a truck is equipped with the rail wheels that hold them to the tracks, these wheels are setup to match the width to allow them to touch the tracks.
 
Last edited:
dbrannon79 said:
It's been a long time in the making. I had to look back at my fuel app (link in my sig) and saw where I've only tracked 13k miles since August of 21.

What appeals to me is back when I looked up the casing numbers on the block and confirming this was the original engine, on top of the block damage on the starter mount making this one a ticking time bomb. not sure about the trans, maybe there are some numbers on it I can look for too.

today we drove out to see Deejaaa and picked up the spare parts he had for his old truck along with the TCU programmer. When I reached out and made a deal to purchase the truck, I honestly did not know what I would do with a second 6.5 truck. For a while I had been on the lookout for a parts truck or good spare engine to keep mine going. Now that have made the purchase of a running and driving truck almost identical to mine body wise, only a couple years older and with a few upgrades, I want to fix this one up as good as mine has been if not better.

His has about 285k on it but has a 99 engine and a trans from a 96.

He gave me a set of rims with spacers that he had on the truck a few years back, they are 19.5" rims and with the old tires still on them, they are real heavy. the steel on the mount face of them has to be at least 1/4" thick. I'm not entirely sure what they are made for or their purpose. He has a photo of them on the truck here in this thread if someone can tell me what they are.

Edit: Found them. they are HI-RAIL wheels made for use on the railways. when a truck is equipped with the rail wheels that hold them to the tracks, these wheels are setup to match the width to allow them to touch the tracks.
Click to expand...
Had some friends that borrowed a cop car and went road loading down some rarely used railroad tracks for. Few hours.
The rail wheels brought that to mind.
They returned the cop car and nothing was ever heard about it.
I think there was a nervous cop out there for a while. Back then everything didn't get posted on the Internet or bragged about in public.
I think 45 years is probably past the statute of limitations
 
dbrannon79 said:
It's been a long time in the making. I had to look back at my fuel app (link in my sig) and saw where I've only tracked 13k miles since August of 21.

What appeals to me is back when I looked up the casing numbers on the block and confirming this was the original engine, on top of the block damage on the starter mount making this one a ticking time bomb. not sure about the trans, maybe there are some numbers on it I can look for too.

today we drove out to see Deejaaa and picked up the spare parts he had for his old truck along with the TCU programmer. When I reached out and made a deal to purchase the truck, I honestly did not know what I would do with a second 6.5 truck. For a while I had been on the lookout for a parts truck or good spare engine to keep mine going. Now that have made the purchase of a running and driving truck almost identical to mine body wise, only a couple years older and with a few upgrades, I want to fix this one up as good as mine has been if not better.

His has about 285k on it but has a 99 engine and a trans from a 96.

He gave me a set of rims with spacers that he had on the truck a few years back, they are 19.5" rims and with the old tires still on them, they are real heavy. the steel on the mount face of them has to be at least 1/4" thick. I'm not entirely sure what they are made for or their purpose. He has a photo of them on the truck here in this thread if someone can tell me what they are.

Edit: Found them. they are HI-RAIL wheels made for use on the railways. when a truck is equipped with the rail wheels that hold them to the tracks, these wheels are setup to match the width to allow them to touch the tracks.
Click to expand...
You followed rule #1 with having old cars: always have two. This is especially true with our old 6.5s. Congrats, there should be less emergency events for you.
 
Question for everyone. Can yall help me find the wire diagrams for a 93 6.5 and the TCM? I need to figure out how the factory cam position sensor works and what type of pulse it gives out. reason is I need a square wave rpm signal to feed to the EZ-TCI trans controller. it's connected to to alternator same as the factory tach is, but it gives a different signal. when used, I am getting 3600 rpm reading from the alternator at idle.

the factory cam sensor is on the engine but not connected. I found the factory connector but I don't know if this sensor (two wire) produces it's own signal or if it takes in a 5v or 12v signal and outputs a on/off pulse to send a signal to the factory TCM
 
Hood repaint project.
Working in sections, removed the old paint with 100 Grit on a DA sander. Followed up with 220 and then an Eastwood Contour Surface Conditioning Tool (SCT).
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120 Grit and DA
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220 DA on the left, Eastwood SCT w/120 on the right.
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Etch Primer followed by Filler Primer and scuffed w/800.
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Rustolium ‘Automotive’ white. Lots of overspray cleverly blocked by proper photo angle so…
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…needs quick color sand w/ 800 etc. but, I came up hot for COVID a few days ago so, for the time being, I’m just chilling, hacking up the occasional lung and keeping Tylenol, Musinex and Sudafed in business. So far, just a bad summer cold type symptoms.
Spousal unit tested positive too but, follow up test today shows she’s clean.
 
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