What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

@Will L. I was just wondering that as I read @Mrmartey51 post...cause I just put 245/75 r16s on the front...cause that's what I could get cheap from the parts yard..with all the new parts in I can finally get a alignment done. So seeing him say they can't do it with oversized tires almost made my heart drop..

It was a matter of the truck pulling to the right or it wearing the tires at a weird angle.
The tires thats on it are a 285/75/16 and are much taller than the 265s what was stock.
First trip through the align shop they give me a list of what needed done. Ball joints, upper control arm bushes and upper ball joints, one lower BJ shock absorbers were at their limit and a couple other items.
I replaced the mechanical items and went 4” over shocks.
Took it back in and thats the best they could do. Same words from both shops.
Maybe by a year from now the tires will be wore down to $50.00 units, I’ll have a few more fun tickets and can get new tires of the factory rated dimensions and then can get the front end aligned again.
If they give Me the same word on it pulling to the right, then over to the body/frame shop it will go.

 

[Husker6.5]

Two shops in town. I didnt trust the first shop so took it to the second one, got the same answer from there too. Torsion bars are cranked way up, almost to the max limit with stock keys.
Might be too that the frame could be tweaked. It would have to go to a frame specialist to find that out. Money is just much too scarce right now to mess with anything.
Been thinking of selling the little 1970 JD round fender mower tractor just so I could get the motor mounts, cooling system upgrades for the truck and send WW some more money on that A-Team turbo. That weighs heavy on My mind.

Both those shops are full of B.S.! It's easier than hell to set the caster, camber and toe-in on those GMT-400's whether they're 4WD with oversized tires and the torsion bars cranked to maximum lift, or a stock 2WD with coils and stock size tires. Hell, our local front-end specialty shop (not tire store) was able to align the ex-gf's '68 Cutlass convertible after I rebuilt the front end with new Polyurethane upper and lower control arm bushings, U/L Moog ball joints, inner/out tie rod ends, steering box, pitman, etc AND new spindles, 4"lift new front coils and P225/55-R18" Khumo's on 18" Crager SS rims instead of the stock F78-14 bias-ply on the factory 14" Olds Rally rims. They were not only able to align it back to stock, but also took out the Factory natural alignment that gives it a slight pull to the right for "safety" (if you fall asleep you vehicle drifts off onto the right shoulder/ditch instead of into oncoming traffic) so that on a mile stretch of newly poured 3-lane I-80 between the Platte River and Omaha, I took my hands off the wheel and the car stayed dead center for over ¼ mile in the lane and almost a mile between the lane lines before the first curve.

Whomever told you they couldn't align it lifted and with oversized tires on it are either lying, or lying to cover for not knowing how to do it (shimming behind the upper control arm mount and using longer bolts if neccessary to adjust the camber and offset "cam" bolts to adjust caster) or are saying they can't because it goes against Corporate/Company policy (for "insurance" reasons) to touch non-stock setups.

There is absolutely no reason why a competent frame and chassis shop can't realign a lifted, oversize tired GMT-400 vehicle.

 

[Will L.]

Exactly.
Well, if you have sloppy ball joints, bas pitman arm, that type of stuff- yeah they can’t make things right until worn out parts are swapped.
Otherwise....

 

[MrMarty51]

Both those shops are full of B.S.! It's easier than hell to set the caster, camber and toe-in on those GMT-400's whether they're 4WD with oversized tires and the torsion bars cranked to maximum lift, or a stock 2WD with coils and stock size tires. Hell, our local front-end specialty shop (not tire store) was able to align the ex-gf's '68 Cutlass convertible after I rebuilt the front end with new Polyurethane upper and lower control arm bushings, U/L Moog ball joints, inner/out tie rod ends, steering box, pitman, etc AND new spindles, 4"lift new front coils and P225/55-R18" Khumo's on 18" Crager SS rims instead of the stock F78-14 bias-ply on the factory 14" Olds Rally rims. They were not only able to align it back to stock, but also took out the Factory natural alignment that gives it a slight pull to the right for "safety" (if you fall asleep you vehicle drifts off onto the right shoulder/ditch instead of into oncoming traffic) so that on a mile stretch of newly poured 3-lane I-80 between the Platte River and Omaha, I took my hands off the wheel and the car stayed dead center for over ¼ mile in the lane and almost a mile between the lane lines before the first curve.

Whomever told you they couldn't align it lifted and with oversized tires on it are either lying, or lying to cover for not knowing how to do it (shimming behind the upper control arm mount and using longer bolts if neccessary to adjust the camber and offset "cam" bolts to adjust caster) or are saying they can't because it goes against Corporate/Company policy (for "insurance" reasons) to touch non-stock setups.

There is absolutely no reason why a competent frame and chassis shop can't realign a lifted, oversize tired GMT-400 vehicle.

And that too was My thinking. It seems there just is no old timer thoes that would throw in longer bolts or do whatever it took to make it track true.
The people in tje align shops over here are youngsters and might not know, or care, enough to make it right.
The right pull is not real severe, let go of the wheel and the truck immediately does start moving over. Probably be 50 yards and right side wheels would be in the ditch. Dang, I have a disliking for reflector posts bouncing off my hood and windshield.

 

[dbrannon79]

I was able to do my version of a bang up alignment on my truck and it came out almost perfect! all I did was tie a kite string to a set of jack stands. wrap the string around the rear tires and have both stands just to the front of the front tires. set the string all the way around at about half way up to the middle of all the tires. pull it all tight. place a tiny stick on the sidewall of the back tires under the string to hold it about 1/4 inch out from touching the tire. then with a tape or ruler adjust the stands so that the measurement of the spacing between the string and the sidewall are the same across the back tire front to back of the rim. then start measuring the front tires spacing of the string front and back of the rim. do this on both sides of the truck and set your toe in / out on your tie rod adjustment.

for caster and camber adjustment use a combination of the strings and a flat level on the rim. but make sure your truck is sitting on a level ground. loosen the upper control arm eccentric bolts just barley enough so you can rotate them with a wrench and they wont turn back with the weight of the truck. use the level on the rim set up right. get it as level as you can. then re-check the toe in / out adjustment.

After I did this my rig drives quite well and haven't seen any ill tire wear yet.

just a fair warning, do it when the wind isn't blowing lol those kite strings will move in the wind!!

Here is a link that will explain the different caster adjustments and how it effects steering.

Positive, Negative & Zero Caster Explained | Low Offset

What is positive caster and how does it affect your car’s handling? In this guide, we answer all your questions so that you can make the most of your car.

low-offset.com

 

[dbrannon79]

Decided to pull my rig out of the back and move it to the front of the house today, just to hear the motor purr... waiting on end of the month funding for the water pump and whatever else she needs.

Pulled the Jetta diesel in the back and pulled the factory radio out since the display was broken. installed the cheapy walmart touch screen head unit I had in the garage so I can see what station it was on. lol. my daughter went to the store and snagged a backup camera to go on it. so I have that to install tomorrow.

 

[MrMarty51]

The guy I bought the 2000 K3500 from called yesterday. He too is having a time trying to find a rebuildable engine block.
We talked for a while, He showed an interest in wanting to buy back My truck.
Boy, I love this truck. The only problem with it os the fact that I dont really need a rig of this size anymore.
Boy O Boy, this is going to be some tough thinking.

 

[93detroit]

Don't do it, Man!!

 

[dbrannon79]

@MrMarty51 you might not need your truck now, but it will never fail that the minute you don't have it, you'll be wishing you still had it, plus you'll miss the rig!!. That's usually my luck I never need it till it's gone! Plus all that TLC you've put into your rig

if I were you, I'd keep it and help the guy find one lol

 

[Stoney]

I'm with them...never get rid of a good truck..you will regret it....it's not a matter of need it...it's that you have it IF you need it .

 

[dbrannon79]

Not only that, but the thought of if you have kids / grand kids that show an interest in these great 6.5's as they grow up. it would be a great piece of history, memories, and value to leave them in many years to come

that is something I hope to do with mine, hoping that I can fix everything on it by the time that day comes.

 

[MrMarty51]

Okay. I will keep it. I have a feeling that this truck would be like the 1976 Harley Electra Glide I once had. Sure be nice to have not sold it no matter how badly the house was falling down. I sure would love to have that old machine back. Next time the woman mentions selling the truck, I’m going to reply with, shut Yoh mouth woman.

 

[Stoney]

@MrMarty51 make sure you have a blanket and pillow stashed in the truck before that day comes... Your gonna need it
When I was driving rig on the back of my sleeper I had a mural painted that said "daddy's dog house"... Cause when ever I ticked off the old lady she'd call my dispatcher and tell them to get me a load somewhere.

 

[Big T]

I was able to do my version of a bang up alignment on my truck and it came out almost perfect! all I did was tie a kite string to a set of jack stands. wrap the string around the rear tires and have both stands just to the front of the front tires. set the string all the way around at about half way up to the middle of all the tires. pull it all tight. place a tiny stick on the sidewall of the back tires under the string to hold it about 1/4 inch out from touching the tire. then with a tape or ruler adjust the stands so that the measurement of the spacing between the string and the sidewall are the same across the back tire front to back of the rim. then start measuring the front tires spacing of the string front and back of the rim. do this on both sides of the truck and set your toe in / out on your tie rod adjustment.

for caster and camber adjustment use a combination of the strings and a flat level on the rim. but make sure your truck is sitting on a level ground. loosen the upper control arm eccentric bolts just barley enough so you can rotate them with a wrench and they wont turn back with the weight of the truck. use the level on the rim set up right. get it as level as you can. then re-check the toe in / out adjustment.

After I did this my rig drives quite well and haven't seen any ill tire wear yet.

just a fair warning, do it when the wind isn't blowing lol those kite strings will move in the wind!!

Here is a link that will explain the different caster adjustments and how it effects steering.

Positive, Negative & Zero Caster Explained | Low Offset

What is positive caster and how does it affect your car’s handling? In this guide, we answer all your questions so that you can make the most of your car.

low-offset.com

Next time use masonry leveling string.

 

[Big T]

Both those shops are full of B.S.! It's easier than hell to set the caster, camber and toe-in on those GMT-400's whether they're 4WD with oversized tires and the torsion bars cranked to maximum lift, or a stock 2WD with coils and stock size tires. Hell, our local front-end specialty shop (not tire store) was able to align the ex-gf's '68 Cutlass convertible after I rebuilt the front end with new Polyurethane upper and lower control arm bushings, U/L Moog ball joints, inner/out tie rod ends, steering box, pitman, etc AND new spindles, 4"lift new front coils and P225/55-R18" Khumo's on 18" Crager SS rims instead of the stock F78-14 bias-ply on the factory 14" Olds Rally rims. They were not only able to align it back to stock, but also took out the Factory natural alignment that gives it a slight pull to the right for "safety" (if you fall asleep you vehicle drifts off onto the right shoulder/ditch instead of into oncoming traffic) so that on a mile stretch of newly poured 3-lane I-80 between the Platte River and Omaha, I took my hands off the wheel and the car stayed dead center for over ¼ mile in the lane and almost a mile between the lane lines before the first curve.

Whomever told you they couldn't align it lifted and with oversized tires on it are either lying, or lying to cover for not knowing how to do it (shimming behind the upper control arm mount and using longer bolts if neccessary to adjust the camber and offset "cam" bolts to adjust caster) or are saying they can't because it goes against Corporate/Company policy (for "insurance" reasons) to touch non-stock setups.

There is absolutely no reason why a competent frame and chassis shop can't realign a lifted, oversize tired GMT-400 vehicle.

Never heard of a factory align for safety set to pull right, sending you into the ditch.

 

[dbrannon79]

Well folks, I've bit the bullet and fired oversize rounds from the parts cannon! ordered everything for the cooling upgrade and ev clutch install today! GM pump, d-max fan, ev clutch, gasket set, and fan controller. more fun to come! but my pocket book is hurting lol

 

[93detroit]

Done correctly, a 6.5 can move serious weight without getting hot. I moved two loads today over a 6+% grade and never went over 195*. Now the climb is only about a mile and a half, but I pulled 15.5k on the first run, and 14k on the second one. Second gear at 3200rpm. Lots of water with a little meth to keep egts down (1000 deg).
Keeping your 6.5 cool is some of the best insurance!

 

[dbrannon79]

That's one of my plans for my truck is to do a DIY water mist injection on it for better mileage and keeping it cool. and another reason I am digging into obd1 tunes. I'd like to see if there is a possibility to control the WMI with the PCM! may not be possible, but it would be neat if it could be done!

 

[Husker6.5]

That's one of my plans for my truck is to do a DIY water mist injection on it for better mileage and keeping it cool. and another reason I am digging into obd1 tunes. I'd like to see if there is a possibility to control the WMI with the PCM! may not be possible, but it would be neat if it could be done!

Nah, you want to use boost pressure off the intake manifold to trigger your WMI, whether OBD-I or OBD-II, as you can even set it up to mist sequentially greater amounts as boost builds by using multiple nozzles and boost sensor switches - like a 2-3psi cruising light mist, a 6-8psi medium gpm mist for passing, etc and a 12-15psi switch with a third nozzle (or the first two combined) for balls to the walls grade climbing with a load or Saturday Night cruising showing off stoplight to stoplight.

 

[MrMarty51]

I quit telling the wifey that one of tje wehicles needs this or that part. It always ensues into an argument about money and spending.
Battery crapped on tje Malibu the night before our flight to Alaska. A battery i had setting here was slightly large and posts on wrong ends, I fanagled it to work. Gor home from Alaska and got a new Delco battery from the dealer.
A couple of weeks later both batts on tje truck died. Two more batts, those two was about $380.00 and the Maliblue unit was about $175.00.
Got the CC bill today, all she asked was if I had been charging parts on tje card. Yup, three batteries.
Thats all that was said. Lots easier to just seek forgivness tjan to argue about the BS.