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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

What I’ve done before to make the injector return hose stop leaking until the new ones came in was I cut about 1/2 inch off of the side that was leaking. They normally split open where it goes over the nipple.
 
Jaryd said:
What I’ve done before to make the injector return hose stop leaking until the new ones came in was I cut about 1/2 inch off of the side that was leaking. They normally split open where it goes over the nipple.
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I'm going to do that tomorrow, weather permitting. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
MrMarty51 said:
How did it go Chewy ?
Weather suitable to getter done ?
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Nope, it snowed most of the day. I may get time over the weekend, but more storms are supposed to be lined up to keep the cold white stuff falling out of the sky. I have new hose so I won't need to trim the old ones, just cut to length and replace. My garage is a mess so I have some cleaning to do to get it covered enough to work on it. My dad and I used to lease a shop that I could pull in and work in, but the building got sold to a body shop to expand a few years ago.
 
Got a chance to change those return hoses, fixed that leak. Three ends of the six ripped and left 1/4" of hose on the injector barbs, no wonder they were leaking. I'll do the ones on the other side of the engine when I remove the turbo. Getting a lot of oil in the intake and outlet blown into the intercooler, I think the turbine shaft seals are gone. I don't think I should be seeing that much oil with a catch can in the CDR system, leading me to suspect the seals. It's going to get a rebuild and install a 63 mm compressor when I do the radiator/intercooler mod and the IP. I'll probably do a restrictor on the 4 AN oil feel hose too, in case oil pressure is blowing them out.
 
In the process of putting on new valve covers. They leaked bad from reusing the old ones. Lesson learned. Just buy new valve covers and don’t bother trying to reuse the old ones. Also took the exhaust gaskets out and bolted the manifolds straight to the block. Got the new valve covers on over the weekend. Just got to start putting the IP lines, plenums, and turbo back on and dig into the heat problem next
 
hey fellas,,,, I'm still around like a doughnut, this past Friday eve, I torn into the Burban for a Fass install. Drop tank, remove sock, install pre filter, pump, wix 30micron spin on, then up to modded FFM. < What a pain in the A$$ to get that tank out. pulled straps, and she was stuck up in there pretty good. Install went smooth enough, so all new system to the IP. Fired up, after a little air purge, and runs great. Saturday, I torn into the Injectors, removed turbo, all that nonsense, for new Bosch Marines set at 2200 psi, 60g's and cleaning up connections while I'm there. Valve cover gaskets were Real fun,, NOT! I got it all wrapped up Sunday afternoon, took her for a spin and noticed a difference with the ol butt dyno.
now for the mileage test.
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Got this little gem via UPS the other day.
Waiting to install it, next month or two will get the new radiator ordered, new T-Stats and do it all at once.
Thinking of getting 185 stats instead of the 19? Thats now in it. I never want to go through another of those sweat my @s off 217 degree runs like that one last labor day.
I now am mighty happy that I installed the restrictor bypass fitting into the t-Stat cross over instead of the coolant pump. 😹
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7F505539-4D02-4736-BE99-F5C7A9951C28.jpeg
 
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Too bad ya need the radiator and all, would be interesting to see just waterpump keeping old stats and everything jsut for a heads up comparison.
 
Will L. said:
Too bad ya need the radiator and all, would be interesting to see just waterpump keeping old stats and everything jsut for a heads up comparison.
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I too had thought about that. The biggest set back is I would have to wait until air temps is about 110 degrees, then, install the new radiator, run it again then install new thermostats.
I still might do that, even if it means multiple drains and refills on the cooling system.
I had replaced the coolant pump within the last two years, could not wait for the pump from Leroy Diesel so got a new one from NAPA. I dont know how the NAPA pump would compare to the one from Leroy, but, I imagine there would be a significant difference.
 
If my time and energy levels matched my desire for knowledge...
I thought about taking the 99 6.5 engine sitting in my garage and setting it up to test different water pump flows. Flow meters aren’t way expensive. And with the engine on a stand you could replicate external plumbing easy enough. We learned in testing back in the 90’s that just testing water pump off the engine was crazy different than on it and the heater hoses altered it a chunk as well.

If I was rich and famous like you guys, I would eliminate the belt driven water pump and build in two electric pumps one feeding either side of the block. Then simple speed control to dial them equal. Yeah, more convoluted nonsense to stuff somewhere by the radiator, but the insane history of the water pump would be defeated and I just can’t think of a water pump on any pickup engine, gas or diesel, that is worse to change.
 
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