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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

You mentioned that your boost gauge is actually measuring exhaust gas pressure? it took me a bit to think about it, but if there is a leak in the tiny tube up near the gauge, how exhaust gasses could make it's way into the gauge it's self causing the coiled copper tube inside the gauge to distort. this may be why it's not reading right
 
dbrannon79 said:
You mentioned that your boost gauge is actually measuring exhaust gas pressure? it took me a bit to think about it, but if there is a leak in the tiny tube up near the gauge, how exhaust gasses could make it's way into the gauge it's self causing the coiled copper tube inside the gauge to distort. this may be why it's not reading right
Click to expand...
Yup.
Looking it over and IDK whats going on with that.
I need to remove the floor from that pod and see if there is any problems within the pod.
I do have six foot of (IIRC) 1/4” copper tube from thd exhaust manifold to the pipe to ferrel fitting adapter. The plastic tube shows absolutely no sign of failure. After a nice drive the copper tube at the end feels plumb cool. No kinks or sharp bends to hold in the pressure.
After setting for the night, that gauge is still at the same pressure.
I’ll try switching tubes and see how the green needle does on that side.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yup.
Looking it over and IDK whats going on with that.
I need to remove the floor from that pod and see if there is any problems within the pod.
I do have six foot of (IIRC) 1/4” copper tube from thd exhaust manifold to the pipe to ferrel fitting adapter. The plastic tube shows absolutely no sign of failure. After a nice drive the copper tube at the end feels plumb cool. No kinks or sharp bends to hold in the pressure.
After setting for the night, that gauge is still at the same pressure.
I’ll try switching tubes and see how the green needle does on that side.
Click to expand...
you can leak test it by connecting an air regulated air supply to the line at the manifold end with a shut off valve. fill with 15-20 psi air pressure and let it sit for a bit.

does the plastic tube at the gauge end use furls but nothing inside the tube to prevent it from crushing shut? I have had that issue in the past. tightened the compression fitting too much and it closed off the tube. it might not have been completely crushed shut when you installed it, but now with the heat of the sun beating into the cab the tubing has gotten soft sealing it up trapping pressure in the gauge.
 
if you want to hide all the wires and tubing, get one of those carpeted dash covers and run the wires and tubing under it. take some scissors and snip an opening for them to come out at the gauge or let them come out from the defrost vent opening. use some Velcro to affix the pod to the carpet dash cover so it will stay in place. no need to trim or cut into the dash!

second idea is a pillar gauge pod. I think I saw one that I might could print with my 3d printer! those things sell for $50 or so. printing one is way cheaper!! lol
 
dbrannon79 said:
I found this one online. I might attempt to print one just to see how it looks! it's configurable and stackable so you can use as many as your want.


View attachment 95377
Click to expand...
I like that.
If all the gauges was the size of the smallest one, if thats a 2-1/16th then it looks like there would be room for the three I now have in the pillar pod, plus, the three thats in the three pod atop of the dash unit.
Get one printed up with six 2-1/16th gauge holes, to fit the pillar of the GMT400s and I’ll get some cash fired right offt to You.
 
I will do a test print this weekend and see how well it fits in our rigs. it's fully customizable as far as gauge size, plus I can tweak it in my 3d cad software on my PC if needed.
 
@MrMarty51 I'm running a draft test print now, and will test fit on my 95 tomorrow. Just using some PLA filament for the test run, it's not suitable for use in a vehicle unless it's heat treated otherwise it will distort and melt in the heat. I can use it to make sure the fitment is right and make any changes as needed. Then later I can use ABS or PETG plastic for a final print as both will hold up well in the heat!

Most likely the final result will need to be painted to color match the interior. I personally would sand, use high build primer and paint to match so it would look as if it's part of the truck!

the 3d model looks as though it's intended to use screws to affix it to the pillar, I think it should be light enough even with the gauge to run two strips of 3M self adhesive Velcro to stick it so it's serviceable and not have to make any screw holes in the plastic pillar cover!

IMG_0563.jpg
 
My son and I put together a small print farm in the spare bedroom over the last few months. The work area is a bit of a mess right now with my most recent (used) printer being overhauled (far right in photo), but this is what has been keeping me occupied and off the forum for a bit. I had invested into three used printers, rebuilt them from the ground up and my son invested into a new expensive multi-color printer (far left in photo)

after seeing a few folks in our area put up booths at the city's local trade days where folks sell and trade items for side cash, we both wanted to try having a go at it!

IMG_0564.jpg
 
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