What ball joints do I need for a 95 one ton diesel dually?

[revyd]

My tire shop just told me that my ball joints are done. I just checked Rock Auto for parts, and it looks like there are several options: bolt-in or press-in and different sizes. The control arms are stock, as far as I know.

Does anyone know what I need? I prefer to get the parts before taking the truck apart because then I won't be able to drive it to get them.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

You're going to need a alignment afterwards, why not let them replace them then they can do the alignment and check everything else...

 

[jrsavoie]

You're going to need a alignment afterwards, why not let them replace them then they can do the alignment and check everything else...

I most often at least priced them. I'd the price was good or if I didn'thave time, they got the work.

I almost always remembered to check to make sure quality parts were being used

 

[dieselolds]

The last time I had an alignment done on my 96 gmc truck I found that the upper control arm nuts were loose.I could spin them off with my fingers.The shop didn’t tighten up the nuts.Absolutely ridiculous.

After that I aligned it myself and put a torpedo level on the rotor while allowing the truck to relax on two 6x6 blocks under the lower control arms.It rides pretty nice down the road.The steering wheel is perfectly straight and the tires have no uneven wear so I’m happy.

I have another 96 Chevy truck that I’m currently working on and I think I’ll align this truck the same way as I did with my 96 gmc.

 

[revyd]

You're going to need a alignment afterwards, why not let them replace them then they can do the alignment and check everything else...

That's fair. I've dealt with this shop for more than thirty years and they’ve always been good about diagnosing and me doing the work. I've always been happy with their alignments.

 

[MrMarty51]

That's fair. I've dealt with this shop for more than thirty years and they’ve always been good about diagnosing and me doing the work. I've always been happy with their alignments.

Alignment shop here told that My truck needed upper ball joints.
I bought the parts then had them install them.
Saved a phew bucks by doing that.
Might be Your shop would do the same thing, most shops do.

 

[SnowDrift]

After doing my own ball joints years back on these trucks and finding out the job pays something ridiculous like 2 hours if I recall correctly, I decided I would never do my own again. Half a day of heating, beating, heating, grinding, heating, beating when I can pay a shop - it's not a question in my mind.

 

[snarl95]

@revyd uppers or lowers

 

[revyd]

@revyd uppers or lowers

Both

 

[Will L.]

I am partial to the Moog problem solver parts.
They got a horrible name some years back before people started realizing they were Chinese knock off parts being sold in boxes made to copy the packaging exactly, and the parts looked right. But the metal used and tolerances made were total junk.

So you get the sam warning as most other parts now days:
Call them up and ask what stores are AUTHORIZED SELLERS in your area and to buy at the brick & mortar location so that you are not doing all the work again in a year.
If you don’t already have all the tools, or aren’t wanting to do this work on multiple vehicles- taking it to an alignment shop is cheaper for a one time repair plus easier on you.

If you get it all done at a shop- be 100% clear how long the parts are warrantied.
Since they eat the labor the second time, if the warranty is a good one then they already learned buying the better parts. Obviously verify best shop for your area. Idk where you are but if Vegas area I have no problem recommending a shop called Nationwide Safety Brakes & Alignment Center on Boulder Highway.
An honest shop owner, great work & prices.

 

[MrMarty51]

Both

IDT that I would want to tackle them lowers.
Torsion bars are a terrible thing to deal with.
Not too long ago someone did a set of lowers, seemed they had a rough time finding them, then getting them apart and back together.
I dont remember who that was and after reading those posts thought I would never tackle those by myself.
Only if I had some real good help.

 

[MrMarty51]

Both

Check here.

1998 Lower Control Arms

Im in the process of rebuilding a 1998 Cheyenne 4x4 5.7 vortec for my son. I need to replace the lower control arm bushings but after 300,000 miles id rather just change the whole control arm. Problem is I cant find a replacement lca. Does anyone know of a replacement? Please don't say rock...

www.thetruckstop.us

 

[revyd]

After doing my own ball joints years back on these trucks and finding out the job pays something ridiculous like 2 hours if I recall correctly, I decided I would never do my own again. Half a day of heating, beating, heating, grinding, heating, beating when I can pay a shop - it's not a question in my mind.

I’ve done ball joints on these trucks before. Yeah it was a bit of work but the only real hard part was getting the new lowers pressed in. It looks like this truck has bolt in replacements.

Check here.

1998 Lower Control Arms

Im in the process of rebuilding a 1998 Cheyenne 4x4 5.7 vortec for my son. I need to replace the lower control arm bushings but after 300,000 miles id rather just change the whole control arm. Problem is I cant find a replacement lca. Does anyone know of a replacement? Please don't say rock...

www.thetruckstop.us

Thanks, it looks like the OP was trying to source complete control arms. I only need ball joints.

 

[SnowDrift]

I have done 3-4 sets and the hot rivets sucked on every one of them. Sounds like you've had better luck though.

 

[revyd]

I have done 3-4 sets and the hot rivets sucked on every one of them. Sounds like you've had better luck though.

Advice received

 

[MrMarty51]

Advice received

On the rivets, I always just used a large chisel and a sizable hammer.
About six or eight raps and each rivet was sheared.
Pin punch to knockum out.

 

[dbrannon79]

I had a time on the 93 getting those hot rivets out! on round one (passenger side) I played hell getting them out. round two (drivers side) I wised up by taking my sawzaw to the back side of the heads, then using the drill. that went much smoother. the good part was now that they've been done once, the next time it will be just unbolt and off they come!

when I did the complete upper and lower A-arms on the 95, getting the lowers out and back in got a little hairy with the coil spring (2WD) getting the spring to settle in the right place while trying to get the arm to fold up. using two floor jacks, a long prybar, and a sledge hammer. at one point I swong the sledge at the spring forcing it into the cradle it went boing into place and the entire truck jolted as I had enough pressure on the jack it had lifted the truck off the jack stands. my wife saw the truck move and heard the spring noise and about her pants just sitting outside watching me!

 

[dbrannon79]

At some point I need to do the lowers on the 93. I think a trans jack might work better. I had done the dodge a long time ago and it was fun trying to use three floor jacks balancing the arm compressing the spring and lining up the holes for the bushing bolts. That truck doesn't use shocks that go up the center of the spring, so I had no way of keeping the spring from sudden random ejection! Of course that was when I was younger and dumber LOL