Weird NV5600 clutch failure

[WarWagon]

Is there a specific cause for the uneven diaphragm to throw out bearing wear?

So the 5.9 Dodge carnage starts... Want to see if I cured the problem or if there is more wrong. I assume clutch pressure plate was hurt during install or dropped in shipping from the finger wear. Miles unknown, maybe 50K tops.

Clutch would start to grab lower on the pedal but not hold till near the top. Sometimes would grab hard enough to stall the engine. Would slip in 6th sometimes and did so till it smelled bad couple times.

The flywheel had burn/hard spots bad enough you could catch a fingernail on. Minor cracks in the surface.
Looks like grease from throwout bearing being thrown across surface.

Pressure plate was FUBAR.
Warped as it would rock on the flywheel with the disc out.
Diaphragm fingers to throw out bearing contact area wearing on one side only.
4 hot spots on pressure plate.

Disc questionable.
Plenty of wear left on it.
Hub to center disk loose and wearing leaving a groove. (I do not know if this is normal. Doubt it.)
2 rivets on pressure plate edge talking wear from disc.

 

[schiker]

Is it a fork throwout mechanism looks like it is. Is the spring pulling it far enough and hard enough to clear it from PP? Is the fork worn badly?

 

[bison]

I would venture to say that the pressure plate diaphragm was uneven from day one and the cause of the trouble,.. might have been a dud diaphragm.ie:uneven hardening or bad metal from the factory.
It would've caused uneven loading of the clutch plate which explaines the uneven wear of the plate and spot hardening of the fly wheel.

 

[schiker]

Could it be input shaft movement flexing or input bearing worn and or pilot bearing? When my clutch let go it was the input bearing went excessively wobbly and everything went eccentric and loose and smoked the PP. I think my chain reaction was input bearing getting loose and pilot bearing loose allow eccentric slippage then PP got too hot and clamp force became uneven more heat more wobble lead to more input bearing and gear wear snowballed into a input bearing failure then PP failure. When mine went the input bearing whined loud and the clutch started slipping and also took out the internal slave (melted some of the plastic). The heat from slippage might have melted the grease to oil on your throwout bearing which made matters worse. ????????

I have had the clutch disc center tear all apart on 2 discs from input shaft wobble 2 bad pilot bearings it appeared.

 

[GM Guy]

I know a buddy had his go, and they replaced all the clutch hydraulics. a friend was driving when it failed, and it was slipping and hot.

I am starting to wonder if the slave gets wore and binds in the bore, and doesnt release fully? just a WAG, but something to check, as your symptoms sound similar to his.

I doubt in western KS and AZ there is much for condensation issues, but maybe we need to be changing the clutch fluid more often? I do a jiffy change by sucking the fluid out of the reservoir, and re-filling, but that is it.

 

[WarWagon]

New hydraulic kit was put in just in case. There is no return spring, but, there is a preload spring in the slave cyl. Pilot bearing had grease and looked ok. The hub in the disc being loose was a concern.
South Bend went in with a new flywheel and their HD pilot bearing. Clutch has manners after being replaced.

 

[WarWagon]

Update...
The "Fun" of finding a good shop. (This NV5600 transmission is heaver than I want to mess with.)
Ever since the clutch was put in the pedal has a vibration when pushed in and worse at higher RPM. AKA shake your foot when you depress the pedal.

So out the trans comes again and this time the next shop finds a missing dowel pin. There are two dowel pins. Missing one and the transmission will move around even with the bolts in and make the clutch a flex plate. This is the reason the "hub" was loose in the 1st disc in pics above.

So a year later I finally find out the real reason the first clutch failed and change the 2nd one just because we are there.

 

[wilber]

Update...
The "Fun" of finding a good shop. (This NV5600 transmission is heaver than I want to mess with.)
Ever since the clutch was put in the pedal has a vibration when pushed in and worse at higher RPM. AKA shake your foot when you depress the pedal.

So out the trans comes again and this time the next shop finds a missing dowel pin. There are two dowel pins. Missing one and the transmission will move around even with the bolts in and make the clutch a flex plate. This is the reason the "hub" was loose in the 1st disc in pics above.

So a year later I finally find out the real reason the first clutch failed and change the 2nd one just because we are there.

I hope you read this before the trans and pp go back in. I would suspect the hole in the bell housing that the trans sits in is not right plus I would measure the face of the bell. Both are done very simply with a dial indicator and an adjustable stand with a magnetic base.
For the trans hole or bell pilot hole: You want to measure to see if the hole is off center. @ GM the clutch engineer stated no more than 015". How to measure. Place the dial indicator stem ON the circle of the pilot hole. The dial can be read looking toward the crank from the back. Zero the DI at one point. I use a pencil to write it on the bell face. Rotate the crank 1/4 turn and read the DI, write the measurement on the bell face., Rotate another 1/4 turn ect. This complete rotation will give you exactly where the hole is. I HAVE SEEN AND WATCHED AN IMPACT MOVE THIS HOLE OUT OF CENTER .045" This causes clutch chatter and bearing squeek. Oh the Magnetic base of the DI is placed on the flywheel face at any point. I rotate the crank twice to repeat the measurement.

The face of the bell measure this way. Place the DI on the crank with the magnetic base. Place the stem of the DI on the face of the bell and the stem points back toward the engine. Rotate the crank and you can measure how far the face is off.

This does sound very poor to some. But it is how the designers measure it in the big 3. It is how the durability personal measure for run out, parallel face, and pilot hole movement or old AND NEW Bell housings.
I have measured new bell housing holes off by 0.060"