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Water pump back side nuts HOW???

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Only Solid Mods

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So far I have removed the pipe coming down from my intake so that I could get to a bolt on the passenger side bottom of the circular fan shroud and I have broke free the 1 7/8 in nut for the cooling fan. Before I go farther I think I need to see that I can get these bolts off the back side of the water pump. How to access them?
 

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What year is this WP on ?
When I changed the WP on My 2000 it was quite straight forward.
There is a backing plate that comes off with the pump then those bolts can be had.
In the pic, cant see the bolts ?
 
The pics are from laying on the ground looking straight up and the nuts are in the middle of the picture. This is the back side of the water pump. There is a brass colored piece of metal that is horizontal and longitudinal running directly between the two of them in the picture.
 
I have changed many of water pumps without even thinking about the procedure before entering into it... This makes up for all of them. I was just wondering if somebody knew some tricks of the trade before I decided to take apart the entire undercarriage on the front of my vehicle for two stupid nuts 😖 it looks like the lower radiator hose is also just about as ridiculous to get to. Right now I regret selling my 12 valve Dodge
 
Only Solid Mods said:
I have changed many of water pumps without even thinking about the procedure before entering into it... This makes up for all of them. I was just wondering if somebody knew some tricks of the trade before I decided to take apart the entire undercarriage on the front of my vehicle for two stupid nuts 😖 it looks like the lower radiator hose is also just about as ridiculous to get to. Right now I regret selling my 12 valve Dodge
Click to expand...
Yup. I have absolutely no experience with the LBZ engines.
One thing I have learned, the hard way, read through all of the instructions in the book before removing any one components.
By not reading, it has cost Me a lot of grief and back tracking through the years.
If You dont have a repair manual, might be some available in PDF format that could be downloaded for free.
 
Those nuts are not fun to get off. I usually use a swivel end ratcheting wrench to get them loose. Its tight and tedious.

The balancer needs removed to get to the one WP bolt. You need a 36mm 12pt socket and the BIGGEST breaker bar you got. There's tools to hold the engine from turning. But you can do the same thing with a properly placed pry bar.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. I did buy the Lisle Tool 22110 flywheel stop and 36 mm 12 point thin wall 3/4 inch impact socket from Napa - still looking for the ideal cheater bar and an 800-pound gorilla to help.
Of those two rear side nuts, the one that is closer to the passenger side do you get it from underneath like laying on the ground? The only thing I could picture is that in a shop they would have a lift and a man standing on the ground could reach up in there with a long skinny extension and a universal joint on the end of it-but it's still hopes and dreams mostly.
 
After you pull the damper it's fairly easy to get to everything from the top. I bought a 36" x 3/4 drive breaker bar to take off the damper.
 
Only Solid Mods said:
Right now I regret selling my 12 valve Dodge
Click to expand...

Yeah it's only 2 bolts, but, that little pulley it's on turns fast... So you get to do the job often.

I have nothing more to add other than having lunch in my RV at a truck stop next to some poor SOB who was changing his Duramax water pump. My 2003 HO 24 valve ran fine that day pulling the RV. Being on it's 3rd rebuild/engine in under 150K. Good thing I had a "spare" 6.5TD around during the long downtime of engine swaps.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yup. I have absolutely no experience with the LBZ engines.
One thing I have learned, the hard way, read through all of the instructions in the book before removing any one components.
By not reading, it has cost Me a lot of grief and back tracking through the years.
If You dont have a repair manual, might be some available in PDF format that could be downloaded for free.
Click to expand...
Oh I have the manual
MrMarty51 said:
Yup. I have absolutely no experience with the LBZ engines.
One thing I have learned, the hard way, read through all of the instructions in the book before removing any one components.
By not reading, it has cost Me a lot of grief and back tracking through the years.
If You dont have a repair manual, might be some available in PDF format that could be downloaded for free.
Click to expand...
Oh I have the manual - it just doesn't show or explain any way to get to either of those nuts, in particular the one that cannot be seen from the driver side fender. I was just hoping for somebody else's success story before I fought through it
 
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