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Water logged transplant to the Buckeye ?

R

RD400HP

Active Member
Messages
230
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39
Location
Fowler, Ohio
Well my orange taxi cab looking 6.5 GMC won't start. Since I brought it home Aug 30th I started it up a couple of times to move it but other than it has just sat.

What I did do to it was clean the CDR valve and give the motor a little cleaning with some gunk & the garden hose. It has sat for about 5 days since I cleaned the motor, but she won't start. Had some white smoke coming from the tailpipe at one time but just the one time. I can hear the pump running back there, when the motor turns over it turns over at one speed and then it will hit one spot where it turns faster. Could this be a dead cylinder or is she trying to start.

I have the charger on it now to get a good charge in the batteries and I'll try it again tomorrow. I hope this isn't going to be the old Evil-bay curse. I know its not thought of as a wise thing to do but just to get it started I thought I might hit her with a little starting fluid. I checked the grounds with an ohm meter and they appear to be ok.

Mark
 
3500GMC said:
Nix the starter fluid.

If it's close to right, she'll fire.

Check out the glow system.
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I think I'll plug her in for a little bit tomorrow and see if that helps. Glow light seems to work ok but I guess that doesn't mean their working. I wouldn't think by cleaning the motor off would have screwd anything up I hope its waterproofed better than that.

Mark
 
x2 on the glows sounds like they might be the problem. If you do resort to spray disable the glows and use 2 people. 1 to crank and 1 to spray a very light and small spray. It's not supposed to run on it just get a liitle help. Most people way overdose on spray.
 
ak diesel driver said:
x2 on the glows sounds like they might be the problem. If you do resort to spray disable the glows and use 2 people. 1 to crank and 1 to spray a very light and small spray. It's not supposed to run on it just get a liitle help. Most people way overdose on spray.
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Thanks AK, I am not familar with these motors at all at least the ones that use glow plug's. I am familar with Mack diesels and if my Mack wont start when its 70 outside you've got one sick motor there.

Mark
 
Check your PMD connection. See if your Optical Sensor (OS) on top of the IP is not secured tightly. You can also try unplugging it all together and cranking. The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) has a 3 wire pigtail that also comes up by the IP next to the Thermostat housing on drivers side. You can try unplugging that too, but not at the same time as OS.

Sounds kind of like an aging IP or PMD.
 
Well I finally got it started ,I touched it off with a tad of starting fluid, it started right up and sounded pretty decent. After it warmed up a little I turned it off and it started back up ok just like it did when I first brought it home.

All the time when I was trying to start it I had the battery charger on it so the batteries would stay charged. But I noticed one thing it was not charging by thr gauge after I got it fired up. So I took all the cables off and got my battery tester and the driver side battery was at 64% full charge the pass was at 0% charge but the tester said recharge and test again, so that's what its doing now.

I hope I didn't cook the alternator when I tried to start it by putting the charger on boost, I think boost is about 55 amp's. One thing I thought strange was all the time the charger was on the batteries was the amount of charge that was in the batteries. Evidently the motor must of been starting up on one battery unless my tester was giving me a false reading, I'll see what kind of shape the batteries are in the morning.

Mark
 
check your side post connections real common trouble spot. Did you check your glows? If it fired right off with spray you most likely need new ones. Get bosch Duraterms or AC 60gs.
 
And if using a jump start charger you can kill the glow plugs and controller, since they are rated for 12V and that jump starter probably spits out over 14V when jumping. When people start having battery troubles, dead glows follow a lot of time.
 
buddy said:
And if using a jump start charger you can kill the glow plugs and controller, since they are rated for 12V and that jump starter probably spits out over 14V when jumping. When people start having battery troubles, dead glows follow a lot of time.
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Well I guess I learned something when trying to start a motor that has glow plugs don't use the boost. If the relay blows will the glow light still come on and aren't you suppose to get a code if that happens?

I did find out that the pass side battery is bad, I don't think that just happened , maybe it was going bad and I just helped it to its end. Motor should spin over & start alot better with two good batteries, fingers crossed.

So is the Bosch Duraterms # 8034 I think thats the # is the best thing going I hear it mentioned quite a bit on the forum?

I also noticed the PO cut out the fuseable link going from the bat to the alt, hope the alt isn't history.

Mark
 
If you still get glow time then your controller is probably fine, since the light works off the controller output. Jumping them doesnt always hurt it. If you check the ohms from the glow plug connector to the threads and you have less than 1 ohm they are probably all good too. If you have higher resistance then the glows should be replaced.

Were you getting long glow times with the dead battery? You might notice less glow time with two good batteries.
 
buddy said:
If you still get glow time then your controller is probably fine, since the light works off the controller output. Jumping them doesnt always hurt it. If you check the ohms from the glow plug connector to the threads and you have less than 1 ohm they are probably all good too. If you have higher resistance then the glows should be replaced.

Were you getting long glow times with the dead battery? You might notice less glow time with two good batteries.
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Did you ever try to make a post and be told your message is to short? Well this is the third time I tried to post this probably something to do with AOL.

Buddy thanks for the reply but I'm new to glow plug motors and wouldn't really know what a long or short time was but it didn't seem very long.

I didn't see any check lights on the gauge cluster just the volt gauge reading low. I'll have to check the glows with the meter after I get the batteries back in, thanks Buddy.

Mark
 
On a cold (not freezing) morning start, the first time on a stock PCM you would probably get about 7 seconds of glow time if everything is working right.

I get the message is too short if you quote someone, and put all your words inside the quotes. You need at least one word or smiley in the post outside the quotes.
 
buddy said:
On a cold (not freezing) morning start, the first time on a stock PCM you would probably get about 7 seconds of glow time if everything is working right.

I get the message is too short if you quote someone, and put all your words inside the quotes. You need at least one word or smiley in the post outside the quotes.
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Yeah thats where I was getting the message was doing a quote. That sounds about right Buddy about 7 seconds on the glow plugs.

Trying not to sound like a stupe here Buddy but when checking the glows with a ohm meter do you check from the wire to the blade end on the glow or wire to the glow body or the glow blade to glow body? I checked from the wire to the blade on the glow and didn't get a reading but when I went from the wire to the glow body I got maybe 1 ohm.

I discovered one thing I thought was interesting .When I was checking my batteries with my tester the battery on the driver side has brass bolts holding the cables to the battery. When I checked the battery with the brass bolts in the battery my tester said the battery was bad, when I checked the battery using the lead bolts that came with my tester it said the battery was good.

Mark
 
Glow balde to Glow body, should be about 1 ohm or less. When I checked mine 6 of 8 were over 100,000 ohms so basically open circuits which would account for the hard starting over time.

Your terminals may be corroded, clean em up and best to do change the battery cables to the top mount type. Some of the batteries that have side terminals that arent solid but like flaps over the edge are known to fail on the sides.
 
buddy said:
Glow balde to Glow body, should be about 1 ohm or less. When I checked mine 6 of 8 were over 100,000 ohms so basically open circuits which would account for the hard starting over time.

Your terminals may be corroded, clean em up and best to do change the battery cables to the top mount type. Some of the batteries that have side terminals that arent solid but like flaps over the edge are known to fail on the sides.
Click to expand...


Thanks Buddy wasn't sure how the test was done I'll do it tomorrow. After I pulled my batteries out I got looking at the battery trays and I figured I better pull them out and get some paint on them they were looking kind of rough.

Mark
 
If the engine doesn't turn over fast enough it will not start without help. The juice can can bend rods and ruin glow plugs.

You are on the right track with fixing the battery connections.

How did the ohm test of the glow plugs turn out?

Low voltage to the starter isn't good for it. After fixing the cables and grounds you should check the starter connection to the positive cable and then rebuild or replace the starter if starting cranking speed is still low.

Someone can confirm if it is 600 RPM cranking minimum?
 
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