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Vibration Problems

DMDK said:
TD- changed out those bearing/abs hubs due to ur strong suggestion. When I R/R the front end I found a hidden gem - a set of yellow bilstien shocks!!

Buddy- Here is the tire situation. After I, got the front end complete, I put the torsions bars back where they sat(almost cranked all the way) and drove it for an alignment(not pep boys). Immediatly I could feel the stiffness(not vibration) at low speeds. Got the truck back went work(without a hwy test(BAD IDEA) and the ride had my teeth chattering. Found out one of the Dueler A/T had bulged on the footprint area. This was a matching set 285/75/16 ( balancing- dyna ceramic beads inside tire). Put the spare on - smooth as silk. Pick up a pair of 305/70/16 , mount em, slight interment vibration.

Now I have 305/70/17 Mud Dawgs(traditional balance w/lead weight Pep Boys) on Pro Comp Alloys, the truck still sits in the new position the alignment guy put it in- almost level to have it ride smooth. There is no lift on the Tahoe (onlyslight rub on hard turn+elevation lol!) Also Ive accounted for spedo difference on tire size via tire calculator.
Click to expand...

You should fix your VSS so your PCM see's actual speed. Easy to do, cheap to do. There was a recent thread on this. Should lock your TCC up at the appropriate speed too.
 
mud dawgs at interstate speeds.... does this describe your tire
Staggered shoulders, deep lugs and high void areas provide ultimate traction in off-road conditions?

And now 34.4" tires, way tall, going to put the rig up in the air 2" unless you got shorter springs and alighnment wont be exactly right because its an inch taller, 1/2 inch higher truck effectively.

You might know what the actual speed is, but youre fooling the PCM. You need to modify the jumpers in your VSSB module. You can put dip switches on so when you change tire heights you can quickly adjust speedo and PCM.
http://www.tbichips.com/drac/

What are the RPMs at these speeds, try shifting to see if higher RPMs are smoother.

So there is plenty here to say something funky is going to happen driving fast, get some resonant frequency on the chassis from big tires or just the engine vibration at a specific RPM range.
 
No- Steering stabilizer shock. Will this help??

Will try the higher rpm shift twomorrow morning after duty.
 
I would think it would help a ton with the large tires.

Large and / or heavy ithelps. Mine came with one factory, not sure where the cut off is for factory requirement.
 
Matt Bachand said:
I would think it would help a ton with the large tires.

Large and / or heavy ithelps. Mine came with one factory, not sure where the cut off is for factory requirement.
Click to expand...

I believe the 4x4's came with the stabilzer as standard equipement. It's very inexpensive - can be found just about anywhere. All it is is a small shock.
 
I am very interested in this thread. I have had the same problem and finally gave up after the mechanic couldn't figure it out either.

Replaced the transmission mount and both u-joints. Tried attaching a hose clamp on the drive shaft and moving it to different spots to see if I could change the frequency or make it go away.

All new shocks, tires balanced, balance beads.

I also managed to drop the u-joint removal tool on my face in the process of putting one back in but that's a different story:mad2:.

Good luck and I share in your search for the answer.
 
buddy said:
Ireburb are you also running very large (tall and wide) tires?
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Nope, Just stock load rated E tires. I rotated the tires to see if it was a bad tire but the vibration remains in the same location. I also put the truck in neutral while at highway speeds and the vibration didn't go away so I ruled out engine vibration.
 
Check the u-joints in your driveshafts, i had a similar problem in my truck replaced everything in the front end too, only to find out the rear driveshafts u-joints took a dump and the vibrations were transferring to the front end.
 
If you're not running a suspension lift your cv shafts are running at a angle all the time.That can cause a vibration at certain speeds. After rereading the thread,all the problems started with the newer big tires. That to me points directly to the tires or wheels. Wheels with the wrong offset will throw the alignment off because it throws the steering geometery off the designed factors. Cranking torsion bars is a half-assed way to lift.
 
ireburb said:
I am very interested in this thread. I have had the same problem and finally gave up after the mechanic couldn't figure it out either.

Replaced the transmission mount and both u-joints. All new shocks, tires balanced, balance beads.

Good luck and I share in your search for the answer.
Click to expand...


Same here.
 
1995 Yukon- Did u use OEM or autozone u-joints?

BK95- First post says- I had the vibration just before I changed tire size. And alignment tech actually lowered truck and haven't changed it since.

Little low on cash now that I need a new PMD, but will post w/ update w/ new u-joints. :thumbsup:
 
Ok, a few questions on this as vibrations are very hard to fix without a test drive:

What size tires are you running?

What width wheel are you running?

What brand and model tire are you running?

How much air pressure are you running?


I used to help run a tire shop and we had this customer with a vibration complaint. He was runing 31x10.50R15 Goodyear Wranglers on 12 inch wide alum rims. They would balance out perfectly but he still had a vibration. I tried to tell him it was because his wheel was to wide but he wouldn't listen. Finally replaced them with some cheap a#$ Hankooks and the vibe went away. The real funy part was I was running the same Goodyears as him on my CJ7 with 8 inch rims no vibration and I never even balanced them when I put them on the Jeep. The problem and why the cheap tires on the same rims fixed it was that the Goodyears (and it said this in their own book) were made to fit a 8-10 inch maximum rim width. The sidewalls on the Goodyears were thinner to provide a smoother ride than the Hankooks and would flex especially when streched out past their maximum reccommended width.

Your problem could be as simple as the air pressure being to high. Most people make the mistake of runing the max pressure from the sidewall on the tire. WRONG!!!!!!! Unless your running maximum load on the vehicle that would equal the weight listed next to the pressure you don't need that much air in your tires (despite what Al Bore says:icon_bs:). If I ran the 65psi max on my truck I could put 3000 lbs per tire on it. Don't need my Blazer to hold up 12,000 lbs.

Everyone thinks that the tire holds the wieght of the vehicle. Nope its the air pressure that holds up the wieght. If not then when your tire went "flat" it would still be round. Now we all know that doesn't happen unless your running low profile run-flat tires. And BTW thats how run-flats work. The sidewalls are so thick that they can hold up lightwieght vehicles till you can get someplace to fix it. Also the reason they don't make run-flats for semi's, because the sidewalls would be so thick that there wouldn't be room for air! And BTW the run-flats on HMMWV'S have a rim inside that has a soild rubber "tire" molded to it, so the tires themselves aren't run-flats but the system is.

Try some simple stuff first. Adjust air pressure and see if that helps. If you have access to another set of tires and rims bolt them on and see if the vibe goes away. Eliminate one thing at a time untill the vibe goes away and you will find it.:thumbsup:
 
Update - Still Vibrates

Sorry havent worked on the truck in a while, got caught up on another project- squirel!

Changed the rear driveshaft U-joints- and it still vibrated.
(off the pair the rear was shot, front was good)

Then I R&R the Tranny Mount- and still vibrates.

Trying to do a part at a time - everyone wins.
Couple of ques-

I jacked up rear and tried to rock at 12&6, also 3&9.-barely noticed anything on both sides. Then I pulled toward/away fo me and there was 1/16-1/8'' movement -even more on pass side. Is this tolerable or normal?

Does the diff pan have to be dropped to replace bearing?

What is the Axel Repair Kit option when buying rear bearings??

If engine kicks up while in Drive, this means I need new motor mounts-right??
THanks a bunch!!
 
Did you double check all driveline bolts? All the U-join bolts, carrier bolts, etc, and of course greased. Ujoint bolts have tendancy to loosen up. OR the straps stretch,... or both
 
I just changed my tires since they were on their last tread and installed balance beads in the process. Vibration is now gone. I have no idea why a regular tire balancing wouldn't work but I am happy now.
 
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