• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Vibration Problems

D

DMDK

Diesel Obsessive
Messages
62
Reaction score
1
Location
PSL,FL
I R&R the entire front end ( tie rods, ball joints, sway links, bushings, pitman, idler, hub-bearing assembly) got it aligned, and wheels freshly balenced, so $1000 bucks later I'm a little anoyed that at high speeds 70-80 I still have a intermintent shake , although the tahoe has smoothed out some.

Anyone with similar experinces. Thanks All!!
 
DMDK said:
I R&R the entire front end ( tie rods, ball joints, sway links, bushings, pitman, idler, hub-bearing assembly) got it aligned, and wheels freshly balenced, so $1000 bucks later I'm a little anoyed that at high speeds 70-80 I still have a intermintent shake , although the tahoe has smoothed out some.

Anyone with similar experinces. Thanks All!!
Click to expand...

Tires is where I'd go. If it is happening at a set speed range it could be a balance issue or more likely a tread wear pattern manifesting itself.
With the bad front end, tire wear is irregular and now that everything else is fine.... You can run your hand, palm flat, along the tread and you may be able to feel the cups and waves in the surface. Rotating tires will only put the rumble in the back but, if the tires are newer, you may only have to replace the fronts. Keep posting. I've done all you've listed to include replacing calipers and the truck still wants to head off road, only not as abruptly as when I first acquired it.
 
tires are a diffrent set.

how can u check - u joints or cv axle

or do just have to replace
 
Every Highway vibration I've had is the driveshaft bearing (carrier bearing).

Its the unit that bolts to the fram that the driveshaft goes through. Had to replace it twice on my rig since i've owned it. Its an under 50$ part thats easy to replace. Give it a grab, there should be no up-down movements.
 
Just doubled checked the Tahoe and it doesent have that carrier bearing(looks like a driveshaft hoop). Too short of a wheelbase.
 
2dr owners need help

Went researching and this part appears on the the auto parts store sites when I put in the 2dr.

Any other 2dr owners have a Driveshaft Bearing or carrier bearing?

Thanks Matt Blanchard- also is this a direct bolt up to the body or frame via crosmember?? Pics?
 
no, my yukon doesnt have a carrier bearing either. Im having the same problem as you i think. when i hit 75-80 mph my truck likes to start swaying side to side, but once i hit 90 it goes away
 
DMDK said:
Went researching and this part appears on the the auto parts store sites when I put in the 2dr.

Any other 2dr owners have a Driveshaft Bearing or carrier bearing?

Thanks Matt Blanchard- also is this a direct bolt up to the body or frame via crosmember?? Pics?
Click to expand...

My camera got stolen, but it attaches to the frame cross-support (the Width wise section of fram that connects the 2 length wide)
 
No - checked another autoparts and the part does not appear & 1995 Tahoe confirmed.

Thanks again! Will look at intalling greasable u-joints.
 
Yours a K1500 ???, those were symptoms before my bearing cartridge seized and axle shaft snapped last year, when I just had refreshed ALL other things, including engine mounts

Also how about your shocks, how many miles on those, I just did mine with a new set of Billsteins, and it dampened the last bit of vibe I had after replacing everything else.
 
I have had some U joints in another vehicle all jacked up, driveshaft should have fallen off, but I didnt have any issues, no vibrations, even at high speeds. Not that it couldnt cause vibration, but there are so many things that could and first thing should ask is what kind of tires are you using? They are friggin huge to begin with, and what kind of tred? Is your truck lifted a few inches?

Its likely that youre running much lower RPMs than intended due to the really rall tires 33.5", so at 75mph you might happen to be in an engine speed area it doesnt like. If you shift it into 3rd and drive 70 does it still do it at higher rpm?

And if you have not modified your VSSB module for the taller tires the speedo is way off reading like 8mph too low when it says 75, and the PCM would think youre going slower too to likely cause some fueling/timing issue.

Is the timing set installed a new timing chain? or did you put in the gears? And its no different on WVO or diesel?
 
TD- changed out those bearing/abs hubs due to ur strong suggestion. When I R/R the front end I found a hidden gem - a set of yellow bilstien shocks!!

Buddy- Here is the tire situation. After I, got the front end complete, I put the torsions bars back where they sat(almost cranked all the way) and drove it for an alignment(not pep boys). Immediatly I could feel the stiffness(not vibration) at low speeds. Got the truck back went work(without a hwy test(BAD IDEA) and the ride had my teeth chattering. Found out one of the Dueler A/T had bulged on the footprint area. This was a matching set 285/75/16 ( balancing- dyna ceramic beads inside tire). Put the spare on - smooth as silk. Pick up a pair of 305/70/16 , mount em, slight interment vibration.

Now I have 305/70/17 Mud Dawgs(traditional balance w/lead weight Pep Boys) on Pro Comp Alloys, the truck still sits in the new position the alignment guy put it in- almost level to have it ride smooth. There is no lift on the Tahoe (onlyslight rub on hard turn+elevation lol!) Also Ive accounted for spedo difference on tire size via tire calculator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top