very rough running when hot

[buddy]

As long as the FSD is on a heatsink where there is airflow, like around the lights, it should be fine. Ive never observed the heat soak effect on anything but the IP.

Although the FSD is a possibility, have you done pressure tests on the LP?

The OPS shouldnt matter on your truck, as the PCM should control the LP during operation through the LP relay. If there is pressure when you turn on the IGN it should work fine electrically in operation. The only question then would be if the pressure drops after driving from some resitriction.

 

[mfgguru]

Since you don't have or don't want to hook a fuel pressure gauge up to see your data. Try undoing the fuel tank to lift pump inlet line and blow compressed air into the tank with fuel cap removed.

Defanately sounds like a clogged sock / fuel delivery problem that gradually gets worse as you go.

:iagree:

 

[backwoodsdiesel]

TY very much folks. I am heading into town in the AM and intend to purchase the vac/pressure gauge to test fuel pressure.
I've a bit more reading to do to figure out where to hook it up..

Plan to blow air through the tank sock to see if I can get things back to normal... for awhile.

It seems the logical thing atm..
seems worse with less fuel in the tank..
seems worse after an incline, or under 100km/hr or higher driving..80km/hr or less is better.. I sure hope this does it.

 

[backwoodsdiesel]

I wasn't able to pick up a gauge.. grr.. damn small town Ontario..
however, I did blow some air back up through the sock in the tank.

drove it to the closest gas station for me, about 15mins of driving at 80-90km/hr

put half a quart of 2stroke oil and filled her up.. I put most of the other half in on the way home...

I hadn't been treating my fuel to this point... which I'm reading is uhm bad... so my bad. ten lashes.

On the trip home I pushed her a little harder as I neared home.. taking her to 120km/hr and asking to climb hills quick ect... I cannot make it stutter atm.

So thank you very much gents. My next trip to the larger town near me is 40mins drive.. should tell the tale to a large degree, but I still want a pressure gauge to be sure. I don't want to speak too early, but looks like I should be dropping the tank soon and seeing the inside of it.

 

[backwoodsdiesel]

If I had known about the 2stroke oil thing, I'd of been running it all along.

It's not like I don't have it laying around for the ATV(Polaris 350L) and chainsaw...
she's never been so quiet.. ty again gents and ladies.

I've run her up and down the road a few times, harder .. much harder than I normally drive and I cannot make it stutter.. on a warm day today.. vs a cool evening the other day I made her stutter within 10mins... before blowing the tank sock with air.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Proof again, that there is nothing a good BJ can't fix!!

 

[backwoodsdiesel]

ain't that the truth:laughing:

I'm just relieved to be able to move on to the little things on the truck that need fixing.
-blower motor for heater/ac
-rails for power windows
-wiper circuit board

and start my jar of pennies for when the IP really does go.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Ive never observed the heat soak effect on anything but the IP.

.

Not sure of your meaning Buddy, data here http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=11442 from a off IP driver fail, one of many that has been reported.

I ran a poll over on old site ages ago asking if folks had a driver fail, where was driver mounted, number of fails, miles etc.

#1 fail location was on IP,

#2 location was on intake remote mount like SSDs kit,

#3 was elsewhere under hood,

#4 was "used but good at some point" remote mounting out of engine bay,

#5 remote mounting new driver out of bay,

and as far as I know; then as now, longest lasting/least fails was Heath remote kit out of engine bay

 

[Acesneights1]

SSDs intake mount setup is worse than just leaving it on the pump. There are actually some rare cases where people got alot of miles with it pump mounted. I don't think there are any with WALT'S.

 

[Turbine Doc]

That was original location of the Beta/DSG/Kennedy when I bought it for mine, had mine leave me stranded shortly after installing it on intake per instructions supplied with the kit,

JK then recommended it be moved to the drivers side fender plastic transistor covers removed, cavity filled with di-electric grease; where a washer fluid mount is on the gasser trucks, that wasn't much better had the 3x fials there and that is where it was mounted when I captured the data in the PTP thread, with dielectric grease removed per GMCTD instructions.

 

[buddy]

What I think of with heatsoak, is the temp getting hotter after shutdown. You are claiming that the few hours of less than great cool down after shut down is harming them, which I would doubt. Electronic components can run in heat all day for years and not fail, as long as temps are in spec.

With heatsoak thats where I look at it as the heatsink would soak up the heat of the engine that may have been 210* at shutdown. So they would equalize at say 190* after a half hour or something, compared to the FSD was maybe 140* when moving with airflow and fan going. This I have never observed in many temp checks of the FSD and heatsink during runs and post shutdown, when FSD is on the intake. Thats what I mean. I have seen the IP actually go up a little in temps after shutdown, and the IP is always 10-25* hotter without any PMD on it than my FSD is on the intake.

There is absolutely no way on the IP is better, and the data in the reference post also concurs with that. If I had a PMD actually on there there and running, creating heat, the IP surface would just be even hotter.

Things may get worse on the intake when towing 10K lbs, because sustained high IATs may actually get intake metal up in temp and probably affect the FSD heatsink. And with higher fuel rates, with your foot into the pedal the PMD has to increase voltage to drive IP to higher fuel rates, which might make it run warmer.

Running around with just the bed loaded never had an issue, never seen the FSD itself go over 150*, the heatsink is always a bit less, and my intake itself is never hot, and engine only ever is 190* even on long sustained boost, it never goes up or down after its warmed up.

So I agree that out of the engine bay is cooler, no doubt cooler is better for electronics, but I have not observed temperatures on the intake that are out of the new PMD's spec'd range. I had an old Stanadyne on the IP when I bought the truck, and it had been there 2002-2007, but maybe only 25K miles and it still works fine, never a hiccup, but I took it off and bought a D-Tech anyway.

If you load up your truck heavy, in the engine bay will be hotter and PMD more likely to fail. Im also sure that many people that dont tow have failures. I say ask the quality control at Stanadyne, the old ones just sucked at engine temps, they wont survive in the engine bay. And probably 95% of the data on engine bay failures is associated with older Stanadynes, because of all the remote kits already available when D-Tech came out and they just havent been out but a couple years.

 

[NVW]

Two separate VIN checks reveal no IP or pmd change by dealer. At 270,000 km's I replaced an early model pmd with an intake mounted fsd. It made it to 275,000 km's. The original is my spare after tightening up the transistor nuts.

FWIW I would prefer the IP mount over the intake mount

Leo

 

[Turbine Doc]

Two separate VIN checks reveal no IP or pmd change by dealer. At 270,000 km's I replaced an early model pmd with an intake mounted fsd. It made it to 275,000 km's. The original is my spare after tightening up the transistor nuts.

FWIW I would prefer the IP mount over the intake mount

Leo

My very 1st driver fail was at 36K truck had never towed anything, started failing about 1 month after I bought it used in 2000. On the poll there was a varied mix for mileage when it happened in any location.

 

[Turbine Doc]

What I think of with heatsoak, is the temp getting hotter after shutdown. You are claiming that the few hours of less than great cool down after shut down is harming them, which I would doubt. Electronic components can run in heat all day for years and not fail, as long as temps are in spec.

.

Thank I think I get your meaning now, when I imply heat soak post shutdown, I'm not referring to the electronic components, those do go thru some heat testing, I'm thinking more along the mechanical connections of component to the board cyclic fails as board and stud holding the transistor (base leg) to the board, I had one I dissected post fail where the supposedly soldered to the board just unplugged from the board as if it was cold joint, and another where the stud had snapped off, maybe at max torque limit when torqued and over time cyclic from thermal "worked it" to point of stud fail.

IMO several fail modes, some with bad components from get go, poor assembly, and thermal/mechanical cyclic faults. We may never know the root cause, only that best longevity is outside the engine bay.

 

[backwoodsdiesel]

sorry to bump the old thread

I am going to drop the tank and clean it out .. as blowing with air is getting tiresome.

any tips/suggestions for a non-mechanic who hasn't done this before?

 

[packratt]

Run it as empty as possible before dropping.