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Valve train noise with first DIY tune installed.

yeah, mine is a normal ds4 pump. no added fuel at idle or anything less than 50% throttle. plus I drive like grandpa lol except for when I'm running late getting to work 🤣

I don't honestly think it's a stuck lifter because before I changed the oil I was running 15-40 along with a quart of lucas oil treatment. the cooler weather lately in the mornings was causing that split second or two if lifter clatter and slow buildup on oil pressure. I dropped the oil out and refiled with Mobil 1 5-40. that stopped the lifter clatter on startup I was hearing. that was a distinctly different clatter sound.

I'm fearing what Will was telling me before back in the summer when I did a compression test and found the passenger side lower than the drivers along with #8 being the lowest of them all. be mentioned stuck rings or a scarred cylinder.

I'm not sure if I can get to the #8 injector by just pulling the inner fender, but I was thinking about trying to swap it with on on the drivers side and see what happens. if I had one of those camera thingamojiggers I would attempt to take a peak through the injector hole too.
 
@dbrannon79
You focused on the wrong part of his comment. I think you have a great suggestion to listen to here in the 2nd sentence. Stuck ring possible, lifters plugging, any of that not getting helped by the cold thicker oil- this is a possible helper right here. Do this now, then come summertime add a bottle of Restore.

NVW said:
I've just read this thread, I believe HD trucks used a different IP between 94 and 95. Some tried to use the 94 IP as it was a higher output IP. They don't mix.

Another thing I would try, it won't hurt anything, put an ounce of gas line antifreeze in the oil. It will unstick a lifter. I've done it before, something I learned 40 years ago from an old mechanic.
Click to expand...
 
The oil not getting through everywhere good and seeing dropped pressure, indicating wear everywhere except possibly stuck lifters and stuck rings from the compression. Adding that won’t hurt lubricity. And won’t thicken your cold starting oil. But may help out stuff.

This is a safer version of dumping in a quart of diesel fuel into the crank case and using as clean out some miles before an oil change- WHICH I DON’T RECOMMEND WITH FAKE DIESEL FUEL! The alcohols dry out the fuel so bad it will ruin bearings faster than it removes sludge. You are no where near this drastic a move anyways. This is a last ditch effort move for the 6.5.

That restore can help on the ring-cylinder walls, lifter guide to outside of lifter and bearing journal clearance. But the draw back is, is something is sticking- it can stick it.
 
@Will L. ok I'm lost and need a little help understanding this! what is gas line antifreeze, when I looked it up in a search, it came up as the Heet stuff which is pure alcohol. what exactly should I add to the oil? and how long can it be ran in the oil before it has to be dumped?
 
How about just regular old fashioned rubbing alcohol ? It can be obtained in different strengths. I have found it in what they call 98%.
I know knott whut that means but it was suggested to use that when cleaning traces of resin from circuit boards after soldering on transistors, computer chips and etc.
 
Can't see why rubbing alcohol wouldn't work. The gas line antifreeze I've used was for gas. I have the stuff for diesel but am not sure on it's formulation, there is some for anti gelling and some for melting gelled fuel.
 
When you add it, you just run the engine for a couple hours, then drain oil before the engine cools.

When people would do the diesel fuel trick they run it a lot longer time- kinda based on what the reduced oil pressure falls to. Sometimes up to a few days. But the alcohol staying in there a long time messes with the bearings and seals too much.
 
Sounds like I better wait for this until it's time for an oil change! since I just changed it and used the good stuff. I have been driving the truck like this for well over a month now with no noticeable changes or worse effects
 
Hey guys, I thought I'd post an update on the noise my engine is making.

I started a thread about what oil is best to run in the winter vs summer since on my previous oil change I had added a bottle of lucas oil treatment to "thicken" it up a tad thinking maybe I had bearing noise and my engine was soon to lose it's ghost! link below.

Best overall diesel engine oil winter vs summer

Hey guys, I know this has probably been discussed many times before, but I wanted to get an opinion for motor oils on a fairly worn engine. my last change I did about 500 miles ago I added a quart of lucas oil stabilizer to mobil delvac 15-40 due to guessing at the possible noise my engine...
www.thetruckstop.us

during that escapade, I went out trying to find some rotella t6 5w40 to try out but quickly found that no one had hardly any weight diesel oil on hand. finally found some Mobil 1 synthetic 5w40 and an ac delco filter. paid more that I wanted to for it all but it is what it is! (thank Barney for it)

fast forward 25 days or so, and I have noticed that the noise seems to have quieted down on idle now with me only hearing what sounds like one injector firing louder than the rest but I only hear that when I'm doing about 60 mph or more and the engine is near 2k rpm. at idle she seems to purr like an old diesel :)

I am thinking that if I have or had a lifter issue, the thinner synthetic oil is slowly cleaning things up. Although in the oil thread I had mentioned on initial cold startup the oil pressure was a little slower than my liking before it got to 40psi. it is still that way.

on cold morning startup the pressure will take about 1 or maybe 2 seconds to get to 25 psi, then pause there for a second and then climb on up to 40. after shes fully warm, with this oil, the pressure will fall to 25 at idle and go back to 40 with an increase of the rpm.

So for now the truck seems happy, I guess I should be happy too lol
 
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