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Valve train noise with first DIY tune installed.

dbrannon79

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Seguin, TX
recently I have been noticing my engine has been louder with the beginning of winter setting in. with reading and talking on another thread about the plastic buttons that hold the rockers in place, I have had this on my mind wondering if I might have a valve train issue trying to rare it's head.

I decided to film a video about 10 minutes long on how it sounds along with connecting my laptop and getting a snapshot from the PCM since I hadn't done this since I played with the tune changing the fueling table, boost table, and glow plug time tables. I am still waiting for YouTube to finish my video upload from my phone. Ill post that as soon as it finishes.

one thing I did notice when I connected my laptop I had a historical code 36 - Injection pulse width error (response time long). I remember that the SES light came on while I was on the freeway at about 70 and my boost psi was around 13, I assumed it was a code for the high boost pressure and ignored it. now I think I may have an issue.

I also found that when I took the snapshot the TDCO was at -0.44 when before I installed the tuned prom chip it was set to -1.58 due to me tweaking the IP long before the tune was installed. I did not realize that a relearn is needed when changing the prom chip, thought that setting was stored in the PCM not in the prom.

Please take a look at the snapshot and I will upload the video as soon as it finishes uploading. the snapshot I took and the video, the engine was cold with about 60 degrees outside, I have not ran it long enough to get to temp.

Oh, I also have noticed my truck taking longer to warm up too, not that this issue has anything to do with the TDCO stored. this is most likely just my imagination!
 

Attachments

  • Snapshot since turn install.pdf
    79.4 KB · Views: 5
Ok here is the video I used my remote start, and it ususally starts right up without a stumble, not sure why she did this here. I know the sound is nothing like standing in front of the truck.
 
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My plan right now is to get it up to temp and trigger the TDC relearn, clear the code and see if that code comes back. I did lookup the code and from reading online, it points to ether the PMD, air in the fuel, fuel additives, or an IP wearing out.

I think the code set because I didn't know I needed to set the TDC in the PCM after installing the prom chip. since my timing is set different and the PCM thinks it's at -0.44 and not closer to -1.58. maybe this is causing more clatter also.
 
Just got it up to temp, triggered the relearn and got -1.67 is this too high?
 

Attachments

  • Snapshot since turn install - after TDCO relearn.pdf
    79.4 KB · Views: 1
the noise doesn't bother me, just got me the thinking since I do have a tapping or knock going on on the passenger side that seems a bit like a random knock. me thinking too much again i guess.

I had set the timing like that just for a little more performance as others have said it sometimes helps. I am curious if since the PCM was at -0.44 this whole time since I played with the tune that that effected or skewed my fuel mileage over the last few weeks, or had something to do with code 36 showing up. before I played with the tune the PCM was set to -1.58.

a learning experience for me not knowing to check the TDCO in the PCM after changing the prom chip lol
 
Sounds like random Diesel ignition variation to me. I wouldn't worry about it. The precups at idle are not very hot so the diesel evaporation and lighting on fire "times" will vary. Faster it lights off the more likely it will "knock".

The starting issue sounds like air in fuel or sticking injectors. How many miles on the injectors? Clear return line off the IP esp. when it "cuts out".
 
Yup. AK and WW are both correct.
Get the clear line on there and never go with a regular one again. Replace it every 5 years or so as required. Dollar to a donut says you are getting random rushes of air intrusion.

as to the knock: with it running, when you hear the knock crack the injector nut one at A time. When the knock stops- it is that cylinder. Swap that injector with another that doesn’t have the issue. This will tell you if it is the injector or something to that.

Do these tests first as either or both will mess with any timing issue even more than your adjustments.
 
I did pull the clear line off after I thought I had fixed that issue, since it wasn't rated for fuel or heat. honestly it hasn't started like that in a good while. it just happened to decide to act up on camera lol I was playing with the injector cut out on the laptop while sitting here idling and when I hit #2 it stopped the knock. I might have a couple of oil changes on the passenger side injectors maybe 6000 miles. Maybe I can try swapping it out under warranty and see what happens.

after I did the relearn it seems to idle smoother now, not that it was rough before. just seems more of a solid idle.

I don't want to touch the IP timeing if I don't need to. but the clear line I had on there was just some run of the mill clear tubing from home depot. I need to order some actual clear fuel hose and leave it on there!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I might have a couple of oil changes on the passenger side injectors maybe 6000 miles.
Click to expand...

All 8 injectors have similar miles? As Will said swap it with an injector on the other side of the engine. But do the clear line first and save yourself some PIA work if it's air, again. Maybe your lift pump quit, wire fell off, OPS burned up, or whatever. I would be more surprised at a working lift pump than a dead one after my luck with them.
 
I get the pulse width error code every time I try and run up to about 85 or so mph real quick from a slow speed. Like, if I just turned on to a road and floor it until about 85 mph or so it’ll set the light on
 
I haven't taken mine out yet, but I will find out this week if it comes back. I'm hoping to get my hands on a tablet and do some data recording soon. what I don't know is if aldldroid will tell you in the recording exactly when and under what conditions when codes set like you can see on the newer trucks
 
Some of those apps and code reader/scanner devices will have a recording mode set when the SEL lamp is set.
I have seen some that will record about 3 seconds before and after the light is tripped.
Then a person needs to go into the app and find reading that tripped the lamp and watch the data recorded before during and after the lamp tripped to see what that sensor was seeing.
 
Put a 100% stock tune in it and see if the noise goes away, if it does, you have a tuning issue, if it remains, then look at the engine. When doing diy tuning, go in SMALL increments, and extra noises are BAD! How much have you changed your timing? Does your .xdf have temp offsets available in it?
 
the only thing in the tune I have changed is the fuel rate, allowed the PCM to keep higher boost and added a couple of seconds more on glow plug run time. havn't done anything with timing yet other than the TDC offset moving the IP just a hair. not quite sure on the temp offsets. I can send you the xdf I have. I can put the stock chip back in and see what happens. only I will have to overide the GP's on first start up's. I think that might be because of the 60g's, the gp's it had were hotter and all the PCM would give me was 5 second even with the ECT unplugged. in the tune they stay on for 7-8 seconds now.
 
Next time I start My truck I will time the GP lamp and see how many seconds until it turns off.
Temperatures are cooler here but usually I dont drive anywhere until later in the day so temps is usually in the 50 degree range when I do fire it up.
 
I was reading those articles in the cetane thread.
That one page was on glow plugs.
The writer said at 30*F that the GP cycle was about 8 seconds.
I have never timed mine but, it always seems like it is about ten or thirty minutes. But of course, that is My impatience timer ticking along. It actually does seem like more than 8 seconds.
There is also instructions for a GP bypass option using a three way switch, temperature sensor and a relay.
That seemed interesting. After I have had the engine of My truck running, shut it off to go into a store or, etc, when I get back to the truck, twist the key, I always wait for the WTS lamp to extinguish before going to start mode.
On several occasions, I have twisted to start position before the WTS goes out. It has always extended the crank time by a little, not much but enough that I think I am better off burning GPz than I am the starter. 🤷‍♂️😹😹👍
 
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