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Using water runs great.

N

nealpellecchia

Active Member
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Location
Visalia, Ca.
I think I got some rad clog and some combustion leak in my 93 6.5 that just turned over 400,000 mi. Might add a heater core on top of engine as it runs a little hot in warm weather. Or blue devil? Why open a can of worms. I trip the cold advance solenoid to start when hot. So leaky original inj pump still gives service.
 
If your upper rad hose gets hard right after starting, it indicates a head gasket. No oil antifreeze mix is good, as the heads or block should be OK.
 
NVW said:
If your upper rad hose gets hard right after starting, it indicates a head gasket. No oil antifreeze mix is good, as the heads or block should be OK.
Click to expand...
I'll check that. Rad clog is a typo. Maybe some clog. So when cold...right after starting is real important. Why?
 
Hose is normally soft upon cold start and will gradually get harder as it warms up. If you have a head gasket issue it will get hard quickly.
 
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nealpellecchia said:
Short slow drive
Hose hard engine very cool. Took out thermostat.
Click to expand...

:eek: PUT IT BACK IN!!! :eek:

All that's going to do is overheat you. You need a restriction to allow the system to pickup and drop off the heat. Even racers run restriction washers in place of a thermostat. Don't fall for this old myth of removing a thermostat and making the problem worse!

While you have the t stat housing open go ahead and remove the belts. Fire the engine up and see what side the bubbles come from. Don't overheat it, but, you should see the bubbles in under 2-3 min. Then you know what head(s) have to come off as the bubbles are a combustion leak.

The combustion leak is what is overheating you - the system air locks or runs low on coolant as it gets blown out of the overflow.

Checking the cooling system for plugged radiators (external like behind the oil cooler) old fan clutches and bad water pump is also in order after the combustion leak, if any, is fixed.
 
WarWagon said:
:eek: PUT IT BACK IN!!! :eek:

All that's going to do is overheat you. You need a restriction to allow the system to pickup and drop off the heat. Even racers run restriction washers in place of a thermostat. Don't fall for this old myth of removing a thermostat and making the problem worse!

While you have the t stat housing open go ahead and remove the belts. Fire the engine up and see what side the bubbles come from. Don't overheat it, but, you should see the bubbles in under 2-3 min. Then you know what head(s) have to come off as the bubbles are a combustion leak.

The combustion leak is what is overheating you - the system air locks or runs low on coolant as it gets blown out of the overflow.

Checking the cooling system for plugged radiators (external like behind the oil cooler) old fan clutches and bad water pump is also in order after the combustion leak, if any, is fixed.
Click to expand...
I see bubbles. Going up steep hill in summer necessitated thermostat removal. It would get hot with severe overflow tank fill up. It is very drivable without except under load and high temp summer mos. So blue devil wants it to go in a cold engine before the combustion chamber heats up too much around leak or the pressure will what ...push it out. Rad was rodded out two years ago..not tanked. Probably reclogged a bit. On the way to LA you have to go over mountain. I stop at first water stop and through some through the rad whole running brings the temp way down. Then 30-40 mph up hill.
 
Throw water in grill while running.
nealpellecchia said:
I see bubbles. Going up steep hill in summer necessitated thermostat removal. It would get hot with severe overflow tank fill up. It is very drivable without except under load and high temp summer mos. So blue devil wants it to go in a cold engine before the combustion chamber heats up too much around leak or the pressure will what ...push it out. Rad was rodded out two years ago..not tanked. Probably reclogged a bit. On the way to LA you have to go over mountain. I stop at first water stop and through some through the rad whole running brings the temp way down. Then 30-40 mph up hill.
Click to expand...
 
That 'mountain' would be "The Grapevine" a 6% grade to 4,160 Ft. It will burn down vehicles that are not up to par on cooling.

Your poor truck.

Sounds like you have a (or two) popped head gasket or cracked head from the bubbles. What side or both? On a truck with this many miles, likely a cracked head or two, and worn IP: is it worth it to fix it?

If you are still running the 6 bolt 6 blade fan - the fan clutch is likely shot. If not this design was known to overheat and kick out when you needed it the most on a grade. Upgrade it to a 4 bolt clutch off a 1998 and the 9 blade fan at the minimum.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-fan-and-clutch-diffrences.44664/
 
The chemical sticks to the metal where there is a large thermal change and is a smaller restrictive port. Pull apart after it has been used and examine the radiator. Stoping a head gasket leak is a lucky shot if it works- but it will damage your radiator. They can print on the bottle what the want- I have seen 2 radiators here this stuff was used. Don't do it. Just bite the bullet and fix the real problem.
 
WarWagon said:
That 'mountain' would be "The Grapevine" a 6% grade to 4,160 Ft. It will burn down vehicles that are not up to par on cooling.

Your poor truck.

Sounds like you have a (or two) popped head gasket or cracked head from the bubbles. What side or both? On a truck with this many miles, likely a cracked head or two, and worn IP: is it worth it to fix it?

If you are still running the 6 bolt 6 blade fan - the fan clutch is likely shot. If not this design was known to overheat and kick out when you needed it the most on a grade. Upgrade it to a 4 bolt clutch off a 1998 and the 9 blade fan at the minimum.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-fan-and-clutch-diffrences.44664/
Click to expand...
Ok, replaced the fan from autozone... Guy said they were s... I'll check. My poor trucks oil stays clean for days after I change it! Because it's a family member. I'll get junk yard fan next time. Chinese starter was s... Junk yard delco has never missed a start.
 
nealpellecchia said:
Ok, replaced the fan from autozone... Guy said they were s... I'll check. My poor trucks oil stays clean for days after I change it! Because it's a family member. I'll get junk yard fan next time. Chinese starter was s... Junk yard delco has never missed a start.
Click to expand...
I love this truck and it's worth a quick fix like blue devil or egg white. What's worse is trusting a mechanic and his starter source who won't give me my money back. Or trusting your own auto insurance company which are s...
 
The egg in the radiator thing is for when you have a pinhole leak in the radiator - or the last time I used it -the water pump seal is bad I the water pump so it's loosing coolant in Death Valley. Yeah- that's where you want to loose a waterpump, Death Valley with a wife and 2 little kids in the rig. - worked great got me home and I drove it a couple weeks "just to see".

Anyways the egg cruises around in the coolant until it goes out the leak. It hits the air then it swells up and cooks like expanding foam. Cleaning it up is annoying but not to bad.

You said bad fan from Autozone? What are you running for waterpump, fanclutch, and fan?
 
Is it worth the long term fix?

Pouring something in the radiator is a waste of money at this time. Fix it or park/scrap/sell it.

Worst case: $2000 plus $1000 labor or do it yourself and swap engines with a used military surplus 6.2 engine: additional work re-ring and 6.5 head gaskets. They come with a good IP on them sometimes.

Best case it's just a head gasket.

How is the blow by on it?
 
Blow by is an issue. Orielly depression reg a little different leaks a bit. Shoots oil out since I replaced it. 6.2 an interesting suggestion.
 
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