UPDATE- On HMMWV Crate Motor

[Ratkilr]

Well I finally got a chance this evening to tear down the crate motor to see what was lurking inside?!?! And thank goodness was I relieved!!! The pictures speak for themselves.. I wont lie for awhile I thought "D4mn I Hope I didn't throw away $1000" I'm still not sure on the where-how-why about this motor but as you can tell it is CLEAN and FRESH inside. The oil in the pan and what was left over in the head are brand new. I pulled the heads and the crosshatch was like new. I flipped the head over and even lucked up and got Diamond precups! What does everyone think about putting Total Seal Piston Rings in it just like it sit's? I do not think the motor has much more than a test fire up and shut down. And I also have to ask would it be beneficial to put the thicker head gaskets on it when it goes back together. Because I am going to put a turbo on it.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Hate to rain on your parade but those precups are square not diamonds. Otherwise looks very nice

 

[Ratkilr]

Where can I buy Diamond precups?

 

[ak diesel driver]

good luck finding non chinese ones

 

[Jaryd]

looks to me like your $1000 gamble paid off pretty good so far.

I would Try calling Unique Diesel or Kennedy Diesel and see if they have any diamond precups or can get them. Teds Trucks might be worth a phone call to.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Diamonds are not available thru AMG, they only come in purchased heads... Teds would be somewhere to try first...

 

[FellowTraveler]

I'll be pulling the heads off my post May 1999 6.5TD and see if the cups are still good.......if so they will be up for sale soon.

 

[WarWagon]

Hate to rain on your parade but those precups are square not diamonds. Otherwise looks very nice

Turn your head a little and they look like diamonds!




Teds Trucks N Stuff will sell used diamond precups. cough remind them we miss them being a site vendor from this forum.

@Ratkilr
Congrats on winning the odds! That's a 50% + discount on a surplus military engine. Even better it's a fresh rebuild.

Next you want to look very closely at the piston tops for markings. "C" or "D" stamped in them for example would be a standard size for 6.2's. Any numbers may be oversize or just newer pistons than the old letter sizing system. Post it up before assuming as I don't recall the numbers offhand. Military was one overbore and done on 6.5's. Rusty memory although the military manual in the reference section can help this.

I suggest looking at my project thread.

Hopefully you have standard bore pistons that are NOS dirt cheap on eBay. Well 6.2's pistons are I haven't checked 6.5 pistons.

Frugal is coating a set of pistons to better take the turbo heat and keep it out of the oil. Low compression pistons from @Twisted Steel Performance is an option depending on budget.

Gapless rings - yes. No issues on the fresh cylinder walls as pictured.

HV oil pump because you are there and may need to swap oil pans and pumps anyway.

Rebuild the heads with the newer and better valve springs @Twisted Steel Performance suggested for these engines and I think may sell now. New valve stem seals from the dry rot from sitting. The coolant passages being sleeved in the heads was also discussed that machine shops do as 'standard stuff' and don't even list on paperwork it's so common.

What turbo were you thinking of running and overall performance goals mods in mind? Factory/Banks turbo?

Bringing 1993 Patch back from the dead...

As the engine is the problem rather than the Moose Call IP a separate build thread is in order. The discussion circled the drain pretty close for "parting it out" or selling as 'runs and drives' as - is. Only ONE thing saved it : I still own a Cumapart and need to send the turbo out for a...

www.thetruckstop.us

 

[Ratkilr]

Thanks for the advice on where to get the Diamond Precups. I going to call as soon as get a chance. I was going to go back with a GM8 and a Wicked Wheel installed into it on the 6.2 "But that's history". So I kept reading and reading how The turbo side exhaust and GM's turbo's are garbage and how they spool quick but then no more power over 2000-2200rpm. I really thought hard on how I use this CUCV and yes we crawl a lot at low rpm's but I'm always running out of power with the 6.2 and I am having to run both transfer cases in low to get any power which in turn drives the rpm's up where I'm really at a lot of the time. So I started looking for something better and I found a Holset HX35w brand new in a box for $500.00 a guy in MI had 4 of them and I grabbed one. It has a 3in outlet on it but I can change the exhaust plate to a 3.5-4 for a little more money. The GM8 I had needed a complete rebuild and a impeller. For what I spent on the Holset it wasn't worth messing with the GM turbo. I also lucked up and found someone that had like 20 Banks exhaust turbo manifold's???. so I grabbed one of those also. Port matched the exhaust housing on the turbo to the exhaust manifold. I even found a Original Aluminum Banks Air Filter Box from a turbo kit for that yr truck. But I'm not going to run it. I already have brand new 6.5 turbo injectors that I was going to run in 6.2 but now there going in the 6.5. The 6.5 with the Holset should be a night and day difference between the 6.2. I'm am for sure it's getting Gapless Piston Rings. I need to call about the Piston coatings also. Really the only thing that concerns me now is the IP should I have it rebuilt or leave it alone or go get a Moose? I know the Moose is the most expensive route but is it worth the money? I really just want it to run as good as it possible can for the effort going into it. I'm not going to slap it back together and put a turbo on it and just run it as is. That know it's almost torn 1/2 way down and now is the time to put it back together RIGHT. Please any advise you or anyone could give will be Greatly Appreciated.

 

[Jaryd]

Dang, looks like you found a gold mine.

How much is the guy charging for the banks manifolds?

 

[Will L.]

Dude! Nice scores. Are you keeping the 35 as a full 35 or doing the 35/40?

 

[Ratkilr]

I just checked on the exhuast manifolds! He has raised the price on them. He still has some available. $351 plus shipping. The Holset has a 14cm housing so I was going to leave it alone and run it as is. The exhuast port for the Cummins is tiny compared to the Banks so I figured port matching it would help it out extremely to spool up?

 

[Will L.]

Matching ports always helps keep the airflow laminar.

Any of those turbos extra layin around? Haha

 

[WarWagon]

Buy a lotto ticket you lucky SOB! Engine condition and Banks parts score is good luck.

The oiled air filter is garbage and will quickly dust and ruin rings. It lets too much stuff by esp if the oil gets used up or runs off. Find another paper or dry air filter unit to use.

 

[Ratkilr]

They have one HX35w turbo left for sale. $599 OBO PLUS FREE SHIPPING?? I looked and I gave $525 plus shipping. Still not a bad deal? On WarWagon’s comment, I couldn’t win a Free cup coffee the way my luck is sometimes! “I just got lucky on the parts”. Like putting a hole in a radiator 15 miles from nowhere! I’m gonna have to make or come up with some type of custom air box for the thing. I’m not a fan of K&N filters ether! There meant for race motors that get tore down every few races or season. Not for daily drivers! What are yall’s thoughts on the IP for this motor. I have already jumped down the rabbit hole far enough that you can just see my feet. So if best to spend a little now then a lot later that’s what I’ll do. I’m just sure what would be best???

 

[JayTheCPA]

Seeing as the plan is to go with the Banks manifold, consider doing a front cross-over (presuming there is clearance). Reasoning is that it is less volume upstream of the turbine. Also, the exhaust from the driver's side will not lag as much in terms of hitting the turbine.

Only real down-side to the front cross-over is that it is a fabrication job. Might get lucky and see if Leroy can do one for you

 

[Will L.]

My thought is, an IP change later is an easy thing to do. Unless you have enough money to do EVERYTHING at once and don’t care about budget- spend money on everything inside the engine while it is out.
How hard are you going to push this engine and what life do you really expect from it. Thinking about a way powerful build is one thing- but putting down high power AND trying to get 250,000 miles- not cheap. Stock rods or oversizing rod bolts? Unique has them in matched sets iirc- might be cheaper than having a local shop do it. Idk. Obviously balanced assy. Roller rockersand 1.5/1.6/1.7? Better springs? Larger pushrods? Pistons and what cr? Full port on intake, heads? What injectors? enlarging valves? All that is going to play directly to the power and efficiency you get.

How much are you going to coat?
Fully coated gasser engines I have delt with on comparison tend to run 40-50 hp for just coatings- yes he did all machine work and built- then tear down and had coated just to see. But my reason for coatings has zero to do with power gains. I am interested in longer engine life and lower temps.

On the long life thing and spending money- chryo treating everything or anything? Expect to see zero power gains from it. If you get 5 ponies then wohoo- chryo imo is insurance money only. I still haven’t found a new place here for it yet. The place I used to use now does stuff exclusively for space travel junk- smh.

Peening component is another option too. There is one build I helped a little on that literally had everything done they could. Machine, peen, hand machine, repeen, chryo, rest and long chryo. We’re talking stupid money. Imo skip peening- but just an opinion...

Although it goes against inside engine work first- with that turbo unless you keep boost under 10 and stock fueling ip- you need exhaust. What does it have now? If you have enough $ to do complete interior engine, I would
Spend $ on exhaust before ip if stock. Shoving more in than out spells disaster.

Didn’t you mention you were doing upgraded tc and rebuild trans? Too many builds in my mind currently.

 

[Ratkilr]

Here is the piston stamping.

 

[Ratkilr]

I had already pulled the th400 and went though it when I added the doubler transfercase and it had the usual problems like accumulator piston busted. I replaced what was needed. But kept the stock converter since it’s a trail-woods-rock rig. I don’t plan on making it a “rock bouncer” just want to get as much power as I can and keep it reliable. Im going to fab up a custom 3.5-4 inch straight thru exhuast. I never seen a k5 blazer with an exhuast that big but there’s a first for everything space is going to be the biggest issue. I told my wife that I was going to run the exhuast straight out the passenger fender “seeing how she hates the smell of diesel” she said “Thats it I’m not riding anymore in that Thing” I now know there is way I can keep her from going and shreeking in my ear every time she thinks we are going to flip it over!
I wasent sure it the stock DB2 non turbo IP could fuel enough for the HX35. And that I don’t know how old it is ether??

 

[Will L.]

On the ip being enough to max the hx35- it depends:

which injectors you run, and where you set them.
What boost you are going to run.
(If you run the stock pistons, with head studs- keep that boost 15-17 is safer. You better run main studs too, which- still waiting for mains pictures... everything else has been good, so expect no cracks.)

Max the fuel screw when you swap to the 12v and it should get you there if everything is ok. The top rpm is governed about 250 rpm lower iirc. Yes you could have more ip. But then you need to build more lower end to be ready for it. At least main studs.