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Two bad new AC compressors

Honestly none are flushable in a sense. both the condensers and evap's are designed same as the radiator is. two tanks with the core inter-connected. the old ones were though, they were a single flow design where anything that went in flowed though every tube and back out.
 
IMG_0294.jpegThanks guys. I’m getting the comp. today and decided to replace the condenser and dryer. The parts store manager said Murray wouldn’t warranty the condenser because I bought the evaporator and dryer off Amazon and that he could give me those parts at his cost. The AC delco comp. he’s getting me looks identical from there picture to my original AC delco comp. I bought off Amazon 2 years ago right down to the orange sticker package glued to the comp. housing. I did cut open the Evap. and condenser then decided to replace the condenser. The Evap passages are bigger. I’m not going to replace the Evap. because I install a new dash skin over the cracked up one. I ran two bottles of flush both ways. What a nightmare🤯. I’ve had a bad rebuilt IP and two bad ac comps. ( the first one might of been OK ) but I didn’t want to take that chance when I found a small amount of black oil mix w/ the new oil. Also going to check this new comp. for oil if it comes pre oiled. I do have question: why do I have 2 high pressure ac switchs
One on the comp. annd one on the liquid line after the condenser? appreciate all you help guys. Thanks again.IMG_0293.jpegIMG_0292.jpeg
 
Goose57 said:
question: why do I have 2 high pressure ac switches?
Click to expand...

One on the compressor is for high pressure safety cut-out. (Before the system explodes or blows something out.) The switch on the liquid line after the condenser forces the system into recirculate when the high side pressure is high to reduce system load. (Limited design that is worse when the interior is Phoenix, AZ hot and it's cooler outside. However when the interior is cooled down recirculate blows cooler air Vs. outside air. Had a door actuator fail and flop randomly now and then and when it opened to outside air it was warmer AC air...)
 
Coming back from church last Sunday with My truck, the 2000 K3500.
Traveling along and hear this pop noise, WTHeck. Nothing for a while then another pop or two. I’m looking around amd finally decide it must be one of the extension cords for the block heater or the battery heaters.
The popping continues for the 30 mile journey, then, almost ready to pull off the interstate and the recirculate button is lit up. Push the button, no more popping noise.
Guess the servo motor on the recirculate door must be crapping out.
 
That one is a PIA to get to and replace! both of my trucks already have the top screw busted off due to not able to access it with a socket! on the black one, the PO already did that for me hehe. on the 95 for a long time I just ran with that motor unplugged and a stick shoved in the air box propping that door up so the recirc was on all the time! when I pulled the dash I was able to get to the top screw and replace it. but for sake of not wanting to have to pull the dash to access it again, I refrained from installing that top screw LOL.
 
Thanks guys fortunately I rebuilt the heater box while I had the dash out new doors and actuators.
I guess that recirculate switch protects the lines and condenser? I have another issue. When I re installed my AC lines the suction line goes right in front of turbo not letting me put my 4” silicone hose on for my new cold air intake. Do I have the ac lines ran correctly? I can’t remember how they went. There seems to be no room under the turbo and too hot. I did have a turbo master before switching to the vacuum unit. Any body have som pictures how there run on the 95’,s ? Anybody ever bend ac lines it wouldn’t take much. I have to figure something out so I can finish pulling down my ac system and finish up.IMG_0296.jpegIMG_0295.jpegIMG_0297.jpegIMG_0298.jpeg
 
Try pivoting the line on the accumulator down a bit to gain some slack in the rubber hose. They are routed correctly but it looks like the new one you have might not be shaped exactly the same on the manifold of the compressor or the hose is slightly shorter. the larger hose does route under the rubber boot that goes on the turbo. you might also have to "tweak" on the pipe coming off the compressor manifold in a downward motion to get it where you need it.

remind me tomorrow and I can snap a pic of mine for you. I do know that the low side connection is very tight on mine were it's hard to get the gauges on there with a hot turbo!
 
Yea I’m w/you the low side connecter is too close. I think because the vacuum pot is in the way. I’ll try rotating it more. I wish the rubber hose was a little longer. It’s so close.The silicone 4” tube it very flexible. When I slip it on it only pushes in a little. Has anybody put an in line ac filter in the low side line? I’m trying to think how to move the steel line a bit without pinching it. I was thinking heat but it might cause flaking inside the tube like copper does. I was look at a ratchet style mandrel bender at Harbor
Freight but the bends are too tight. Thanks
 
I got the new ac delco compressor on. Not making any noise but it not cooling. And high side gauge reading is not right. Pulled vacuum on system got about two cans in and the compressor is running off the low pressure switch. I’m going to try emptying and vacuum it and try too fill again. Any suggestions?

IMG_1149.jpeg
 
With out a fan shroud you cooling fan is not pulling enough air though the stack. What color orifice did you use? should have been a black one.

get you a fan shroud installed.

what is your outside ambient temp? also, have you taken the time to blow through individually each component of the cooling stack. radiator, oil and trans coolers. did you end up replacing the condenser?
 
one other thing to consider is the fan clutch. how stiff or loose is it. lots of us do one of a couple things. install a pusher electric fan in front of the condenser or upgrade the cooling fan/cooling system.

since you have the bolt on fan clutch you options are limited on a fan upgrade unless you change the water pump to the 2000 year model water pump that uses the spin on fan clutch. lots of more $$ here, but the cooling upgrade consists of the afore mentioned WP along with the 2010 duramax plastic fan and ether the HD fan clutch or the electro-viscous fan clutch found on a 2010 3500 chevy duramax van controlled by a electric fan controller.

I opted for the electro-viscous fan clutch and controller. I can tell you when that things kicks on it's like a tornado under the hood!

in most cases just get the pusher electric fan in front of the condenser. if you don't have a trans cooler on the passenger side, it will fit there nicely and is a factory piece for the gasser 454 trucks. on the gasser models the fan is controlled by a pressure switch mounted on the compressor, but you can easily just wire it to a relay which is triggered by the hot side of the low pressure cycle switch. Just be sure the relay has the built in diode to prevent feed back voltage. we can help you with the parts and wiring it up if you decide to go this route.
 
Thanks guys I knew you would have some ideas. The temp. of the lines coming from the condenser
Definitely not the same Temps. Shouldn’t that line where I touched not be that hot. It’s after the orifice. Doesn’t the line temp. go down after the orifice? The orifice tube is black and white. The fan is pretty stiff. My manifold gauges an acting up and leaking. I did end up installing a new condenser and Evap. I pulled the system down for about an hour. My system holds a little over two cans of Freon 32 oz. Barely got a can and a half in 30 to 40 min. then I got the comp. to run off the pressure switch . I did not add another can was worried about high pressure. Maybe something’s going on w/my gauges. I have some new gauges and some new discharge ac lines waiting at the Zone. Also have to get more Freon. Definitely will put the upper fan shroud back on. I sure do hope that’s causing the high high side pressures. But the pressure seems to go up pretty fast. When I have the truck running I’ll use a garden hose to see if It will bring the high pressure down. If that doesn’t do it there’s something else wrong. I believe Quadstar sells a larger fan for my truck. Should help a little. Thanks again I will get back to you.
 
Where did I leave off ? Oh yea put the fan shroud back on new discharge ac lines,new manifold gauges. Did my normal routine got one can in, took about 1 hour, got the compressor to come on with the low pressure switch plugged in, second can in took a long time also. The Freon these days come with a check valve. Have the can tap for the self sealing cans but it still wasn’t working like I think it should have. My new gauges do have a sight glass and I could see the Freon flow and then it would stop had to close the tap and re open it to get the flow going. Got about 25 oz in. The low and high side gauge readings were almost the same w/the compressor off. Started the compressor and the high side climbed up pretty quick and the liquid line at the orifice was hot. Sprayed the condenser down with/a hose and it didn’t come down. Sounds like a blockage. Took the orifice out, there looks like to be a little shavings on it. I don’t believe I got any air in the system. I did replace the condenser and dryer after the second Murray compressor shot craps but not the Evap. Flushed it both ways, did get a little contaminated oil out of it. Didn’t want to pull the dash again. I though that because the passages were a little bigger than the condenser I’d be ok. Maybe some of it got to the condenser.
I did notice the orifice goes way down into the condenser tube and stops at the bend. I don’t think that would cause a problem? I have seen some ac lines having little dimples in them to stop the orifice from moving. My plan is to leave the orifice out and throw a can in and see if the condenser pin holes passages are stopped up. If not I guess it was the orifice. I really don’t want to pull the dash again. My plan is if the condenser is the problem to get a new condenser, dryer , orifice and then let the flush sit in the evap. over night before back and forth flush. I did check the compressors oil for metal before putting in the new condenser and dryer the time before this. I’ll probably check the oil this time too. If you guys have any other ideas by all means. What a nightmare😂IMG_1158.jpegIMG_1157.jpeg
IMG_1162.jpegIMG_1155.jpegIMG_1156.jpeg
 
50 / 375 seems like it's overcharged. or too much oil. how oily was the orifice when you pulled it out since yesterday? on the can adapter, what are you using to connect to the cans? if you are using the old tan tap that has a point on the part that depressed the valve in the can you need to replace it for the one that has a blunt tip. there is a reason that the freon is entering into the system slowly, possibly the can adapter or the shrader valve in the lines are the issue.

I assume you are using PURE 134a cans that don't have any additives, stop leak, or any conditioners in them? if the cans have anything in them other than 134a, this could cause you to have too much oil in the system.

I would not try running it without the orifice installed you would risk liquid flowing into the compressor and can damage it. remember liquid does not compress, gas will.
 
Hi All, I believe I got the ac working.
I had too much oil in it, thanks dbrannon 79. I wanted to thank everybody for there help. I really enjoy coming on here and trying to diagnose problems w/ you guys😎. I’ll be posting on this site again w/ other issues I have. Thanks again.
 
Goose57 said:
Hi All, I believe I got the ac working.
I had too much oil in it, thanks dbrannon 79. I wanted to thank everybody for there help. I really enjoy coming on here and trying to diagnose problems w/ you guys😎. I’ll be posting on this site again w/ other issues I have. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
How for did You get the oil dumped frum duh system ? ? ? ?

See whut I’m doing here ? ? ? ?
Prolonging Your departure.
 
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