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turbo to exhaust manifold gasket

J

jrsavoie

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turbo to exhaust maniflod gasket

Is there another source for these gaskets?

Do any parts stores carry them?



Originally Posted by buddy
Here you go, gasket for V-Band and the turbo manifold. Even the exhaust shop said it was a biatch to get the V-Band Clamp on right and they said they have to bend the clamp to get it to seat right. Ive tried it 3 times myself and usually settle for getting it close.

http://www.intengineering.com/Cometi...33556-1-2.html

http://www.intengineering.com/Cometi...33553-1-2.html
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
I think he means where the turbo and Down Pipe meet, connected with the V-Band clamp.
Click to expand...

Reread & you're prolly right.

Often the problem is more one of getting the downpipe correctly aligned, & held up so it's sealing surface is flat against the exh elbow's flat surface - then tightening the clamp to lock/hold/seal everything together. The aftermarket downpipes I've seen for our 6.5's have a flange that isn't really the \| shape true V-band clamps are meant to pull/hold together. The shapes are supposed to be \||/ for a V-band clamp to best pull/hold things together. See first link below.

So if the original clamp is bent out of shape, etc., a new clamp might help. V-band clamps & weld ends in the correct shapes are generally available in 1/2" increments.

If the stock clamp/pipe is 3", here's an example of the kit you'd use to weld up a true V-band connection:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-041&Category_Code=FLG

For just the 3" clamp, here's a link:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=CLC-CLA-013&Category_Code=CLA
 
he does say turbo and exhaust "manifold". For what it's worth they said they had a heck of a time getting my exhaust pipe to line up with the ATT turbo as everything had been clamped down hard when the 4 inch exhaust was installed 3 years ago.
 
The manifolds are supposed to seal up with soot. If they don't it is because something has warped and needs replacement.

I don't know of any doughnut gasket for the downpipe although the Duramax trucks are starting to come out with them.
 
Sounds like you need to let it run a bit to soot seal or replace the warped manifold. Some places sell a gasket for that Like Heath Diesel... Worth a try to save a expensive hard to change manifold...
 
I would take the studs out of the turbo and get a good sharp smooth lathe file,you can file both the mating surfaces smooth as a baby butt,no gasket needed.
 
As stated above, there is no gasket required for the turbo/manifold. Same goes for the manifolds to the engine block. The gaskets are available but not required unless you have some nice warped parts
 
There is no gasket required, but that doesnt mean one wont help. If there was no turbo then there would be less backpressure on all these joints and less chance of leak.
 
" Same goes for the manifolds to the engine block. The gaskets are available but not required unless you have some nice warped parts"

<<< When i did the head gaskets, there wasn't any gaskets at the manifolds to block. And there was one hell of a leak. The mating surface was pitted real bad to boot. I opted to put the gaskets in. It's nice to have that ticking gone. :D

John
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Don't know.......But those inserts that get welded to the DP to make the V B and connection look interesting....Those rings with the correct beveled edges.
Click to expand...
I like those weld on rings, Im wondering how much mine leaks. I guess I could block off the tail pipe and see if I see exhaust.
 
jhornsby3 said:
" Same goes for the manifolds to the engine block. The gaskets are available but not required unless you have some nice warped parts"

<<< When i did the head gaskets, there wasn't any gaskets at the manifolds to block. And there was one hell of a leak. The mating surface was pitted real bad to boot. I opted to put the gaskets in. It's nice to have that ticking gone. :D

John
Click to expand...

When I did head gaskets on my 96' the kit came with manifold gaskets. Just for the hell of it, I chose to put only a gasket on the drivers side and left out the one for the passenger side. 30K miles and 6 years later, neither side leaks. A gasket will deff help seal any small leaks or imperfections in the mating surfaces
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Don't know.......But those inserts that get welded to the DP to make the V B and connection look interesting....Those rings with the correct beveled edges.
Click to expand...

They are pretty slick. Not a lowest cost option, but once you've used them, other connection methods seem rather crude. It's good to do a little planning on what path the part will need to move for installation/removal.

Whenever I see an article w/ pics on one of Banks performance engine builds, I'm most always impressed with how they incorporate both form & function. In addition to performing well, they could almost qualify as automotive/mechanical art. They also often use those spendy Wiggins clamps to connect boost pressurized plumbing. Those clamps are really slick but seem too expensive to fit most project's budget.
 
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