turbo/non-turbo injectors

[buddy]

Did your smoke issue go away?

 

[STEVE53]

I will find out when I start my truck today after sitting all night. After replacing my bad injector, I decided to tear it apart and check it out. Besides trying to keep it clean, it looks very simple and easy to rebuild. Does anyone know if the nozzle comes apart at all, or is the needle unremoveable and where to buy parts like new nozzles and shims?

I just started my truck this morning and I still get a puff of white smoke, but not as big, and no slight stutter as before. I think I am going to do the glow plug override mod today as I don't think I am getting enough glow time with the 60g glows. When I had my injector out yesterday, the glow looked like it was only heating at the tip before it shut off.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[Matt Bachand]

I will find out when I start my truck today after sitting all night. After replacing my bad injector, I decided to tear it apart and check it out. Besides trying to keep it clean, it looks very simple and easy to rebuild. Does anyone know if the nozzle comes apart at all, or is the needle unremoveable and where to buy parts like new nozzles and shims?

I just started my truck this morning and I still get a puff of white smoke, but not as big, and no slight stutter as before. I think I am going to do the glow plug override mod today as I don't think I am getting enough glow time with the 60g glows. When I had my injector out yesterday, the glow looked like it was only heating at the tip before it shut off.

Thanks,

Steve

If it helps your situation I just changed my injectors due to a double puff of a smoke at startup. Last year I always had a burst of smoke, but now its a double puff, so I can tell its the same cylinder puffing twice by the spacing.

I was thinking it was injector bleeddown getting worse, so I just swapped them out and it was identical this morning as it has been the last few weeks.

I saw my passenger side glows really good yesterday and they looked horrible, with all the plastic connectors crumbled. I changed out drivers side bank last year with 60g's.

I think my issue now has to be the P.S. bank of glows.

 

[STEVE53]

I went through all my glow connectors this summer. I pulled off the plastic cover and squeezed the connector with pliers to make a better connection. I am going to pull the pass. side glows today to check for anymore leaky injectors.

Steve

 

[Matt Bachand]

I went through all my glow connectors this summer. I pulled off the plastic cover and squeezed the connector with pliers to make a better connection. I am going to pull the pass. side glows today to check for anymore leaky injectors.

Steve

I'll be doing my pass side shortly. Please keep in mind any non-usual tools, or special tips for me. Thanks.

 

[STEVE53]

I didn't get a chance today to check pass side glows, but I did install my glow plug override today. Turned out pretty well. I found a momentary push button switch at NAPA that is pretty unobtrusive there on the dash. Part number is pp5007. They said it is rated 15 amps. The relay is just your typical looking starter relay that I had laying around. I also used a fuse holder called "add a circuit" which I used to operate the relay. It plugs into any fuse in your fuse block and it has 2 fuse slots. One for the original fuse you pulled out, and one for the pigtail that sticks out of it. No more jamming wires under your fuse terminals.http://www.radarbusters.com/radar-detector-accessories/accessories/addacircuitmini.cfm

As for pulling the glows from the passenger side matt, cylinder 2, 4, and 6 are easy to get to after removing the rubber flap in the wheelwell. Cylinders 2 and 4, I removed the glow wires with needle nose pliers then removed the heat shields around them. Before I reinstalled them, I added a wire extension so that I could connect the glow plug wire through the heat shield, then install the heat shield, seemed alot easier this way and I know I have a good connection. Cylinder 8 glow is not as bad as it seems. I used 7/16 deep socket with a 1/4" ratchet. You have to do alot by feel, but was pretty easy from under the truck while on ramps.

Steve

 

[Matt Bachand]

Thanks Steve. FWIW with the entire Wheel well out, not just the peep flap, you have a direct nuts shot of #8 Glowplug and Injector. That's actually the one i'm least worried about. I'm most worried about re-attaching the power plugs to 4 and 6, as I saw from above when My injectors were out, and couldn't even get close to it from that angle. Maybe through the manifold holes things look easier when your not looking at a rusty busty junky clunky dumpy Glowplug, and looking at a brand new one.

Are you talking about the metal heat shield that is in between the turbo and the injectors?

Or some sort of heat sheild that the glow plug wires pass through? My junk is all rusty busty crusty under that manifold, and there are a bunch of hollow thin circles that are half gone due to salt exposure, perhaps thats half my problem???

Do you think adding length of wire to the plugs will effect how those plugs operate?

 

[STEVE53]

Glow plugs 4 and 6 have a tubular heat shield that protects them from manifold heat. They are held on by nuts that thread onto the manifold bolts. Use needle nose pliers to pull the connectors off then unbolt the shields (2 nuts each). After replacing glows, I added about 6 inches of wire so that I could run the wires through the heat shield tubes and connect them, then reattatch the heat shields. This seemed like a good idea for me at the time instead of trying to connect the wires with the tubes in place. I don't think that that small amount of wire is going to add any noticeable resistance to cause a problem. Just be sure to use the same gauge wire or larger. The original wires are very small to begin with, I'm guessing 18 gauge?

Removing the wheel well is a great idea, I was just being lazy to go through that for just changing glow plugs.

Steve

 

[Matt Bachand]

Glow plugs 4 and 6 have a tubular heat shield that protects them from manifold heat. They are held on by nuts that thread onto the manifold bolts. Use needle nose pliers to pull the connectors off then unbolt the shields (2 nuts each). After replacing glows, I added about 6 inches of wire so that I could run the wires through the heat shield tubes and connect them, then reattatch the heat shields. This seemed like a good idea for me at the time instead of trying to connect the wires with the tubes in place. I don't think that that small amount of wire is going to add any noticeable resistance to cause a problem. Just be sure to use the same gauge wire or larger. The original wires are very small to begin with, I'm guessing 18 gauge?

Removing the wheel well is a great idea, I was just being lazy to go through that for just changing glow plugs.

Steve

Gotcha those heat sheilds. Thanks again. I'm scared shitless to snap em off so wheel well coming out again. Only takes 5 minutes with a 3/8ths air ratchet or 3/8ths impact to take off.

While on the subject, I can almost guarantee that those sheilds aren't going to unbolt off the manifold studs. I almost guarantee there is no bolt left, it looks like a one piece orange rust assembly under there. Those tubes are critical I assume, or the wires will be touching the manifold. ............Any ideas?

Maybe I'll get the glows, do 2 and 8 and play it by ear on the rest. I have flat aluminum stock that I can roll up... I can fabricate (hack) something if I have to.

Sry to hijack here. I like to pick fresh memories.

 

[STEVE53]

Try soaking the nuts with pb blaster or aerokroil for a day or so. After soaking, start the motor and let the manifolds heat up a bit, may help to loosen the nuts. When you put it back together, use anti-sieze on the bolts to help remove them next time. Also use anti-sieze on your glow plug threads.

Steve

 

[packratt]

Try removing wire with needle nose pliers. Then see if your 10mm 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket will go on with the heat shield in place.

I'd do that before fighting with the heat shield mounting bolts.