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TTS Newbie & 1st Diesel

WarWagon said:
Pretty sure the #6 plug is blocked by the exhaust not #8. Can you tell if it's the same as the other plugs? Going with self limiting plugs means you need to absolutely know what all 8 plugs are before you increase glow time.
Click to expand...

#8 requires a little agility to get too as it has the down pipe, exhaust manifold and the firewall all creating access challenges. The down pipe does sit in front of #6 making it a challenge too but, you can get to it with the inner fender removed. The heat shield tubes will challenge your ability to get the Glow Plug wires off #4 & #6 so use some long needle nosed pliers to remove them from the plugs and more so when you go to re-attach them.

Here's #8 without anything in the way. You can visualize where the Down Pipe and the exhaust manifold will give the challenge. My first go around (with SSD Insta-(Not so much) Heats) I got to it from underneath under the cab with a lot of "Army Speak" type words.
04 wires behind Starter Heat Shield.JPG

For Reference, Heat shield tube locations for 6 & 4 (right to left) on the exhaust manifold. Number 8's position can be approximated to the left.
IMG_4422-s.JPG

Here's the exhaust all assembled (Fender and Inner Fender removed). You can see how the down pipe is in front of #6.20160528 3 Downpipe installed.JPG
 
There were no heat shields on the manifold. I am pretty sure that I was looking at 2, 4, & 6 with the last one (8) not visible or touchable. I got the normal glow plugs, not the Insta-heats. I debated about trying to pull that fender well, but it looked like a super pain. It looks like the exhaust pipe and crossover pipe would have to move. Both of my exhaust manifolds should be replaced, but I don’t want to open a separate can of worms on a truck I drive 25 times a year, but need it to run & pull on those 25 trips. I ordered the PT Wiring glow plug harness, but I am looking at running it thru heat deflect tubing.
 
Ray2377 said:
There were no heat shields on the manifold. I am pretty sure that I was looking at 2, 4, & 6 with the last one (8) not visible or touchable. I got the normal glow plugs, not the Insta-heats. I debated about trying to pull that fender well, but it looked like a super pain. It looks like the exhaust pipe and crossover pipe would have to move. Both of my exhaust manifolds should be replaced, but I don’t want to open a separate can of worms on a truck I drive 25 times a year, but need it to run & pull on those 25 trips. I ordered the PT Wiring glow plug harness, but I am looking at running it thru heat deflect tubing.
Click to expand...

Forgive my manners, Welcome to the Truck Stop (I'm a little slow these past few days)
On to the topic...If you've dropped the coin for Bruce's GP Harness (well played by the way), you're going to want to route them correctly, especially down to #8 so you'll want to drop the down pipe anyway. THAT will be much easier with the innerfender out of the way too. Follow AK's advice, get out the 13mm, 10mm and a screw driver and have at it. Support or pull the battery, work it out of there and be done with it. 30min tops the first time if you're non-intuitive like me. 10 min max after that. I don't even hesitate anymore.
 
Yeah, the metal one. It really isn’t hard at all and goes back in pretty easy to. Like AK said tho, don’t forget about taking the little screw up front behind the bumper out.
 
I am the king of cutting fingers, banging head on something, rust in eyes, etc. About the exhaust manifolds, any chance of being able of getting to them to replace via the same method. They are both rusty/rotted and the passenger side has been blowing by since I got it. I am already figuring none of the bolts will come out and I will have to try that weld-a-nut trick on the broken ends if I can get to them. The last thing I want to do is pull the engine. I will wear earplugs while driving first.
 
I did not get to work on it this weekend because I couldn’t get it started to move it onto the concrete. I had it plugged in for over 10 hours and a fully charged battery. It was in the upper 20s, but my tractor fired up with only 2 shots on the glow plugs. Aarghhh!!!
 
I haven’t went back through the whole thread so this might have been mentioned already. where is your PMD mounted and do you have another known working PMD and/or extension harness to try.
 
Well, we had a 50 degree day yesterday so I thought I could finally get it started & moved onto the concrete pad to work on passenger side glow plugs. I plugged it in for 6+ hours, but it wouldn’t start. I went old school. I put a tarp over it, as best I could in the wind, & set up my 50K btu kerosene blower. The wind blew the flame out a few times, but after 2 hours I gave it a whirl. It didn’t hit at first, but sounded like it wanted to go. On the third try I ran the starter longer than I should have but it started. I got it moved over but our temps plummeted again. Hopefully next weekend I can get the inner fender pulled!
 
Well..., it got in the high 30s so I worked on the passenger side glow plugs. Super pain to get fender out, as I had to cut off 2 of the bolts that just spun. And I had to drop the exhaust pipe and loosen clamps all the way to rear of truck. Removing the glow plugs was the easiest part. One had boogered threads so I bought a tap (10 mm x 1.0) & ran them clean. I finally got everything installed & put back together with new plug wires for that side. It fired right up. I wanted to put the new plug wire on the driver’s side but it has some type of additional plug-in connector that I couldn’t figure out where it attaches. It’s up by the glow plug relay terminal, but the wires on it now don’t have it. I am not asking for single digit temps, but I am curious how it will do.
 
I've never had to go through that much hassle to change the #6 & #8 glow plugs. I just put it up on tall jackstands, then go underneath and reach up backwards to get to #8 to remove/replace it using a deep 1/4" drive socket for enough clearance to the exhaust manifold. For #6 I remove the fiber splash shield from the inner fender and go in through there with a long extension with a universal on the end and a deep socket.
 
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