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Trying to get Ol' Blue running

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
Messages
5,694
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936
Location
Seiling, Oklahoma
Well I got bored yesterday and had 2 jumper cables hooked up from my 95 to Ol' Blue (in my sig) charged for ~30 min and tried starting while spraying WD 40 in the intake, used the CDR hole because i didn't want to screw with the flat filter. Cranked a little slow but not terrible. Was parked with a FULL tank a fuel, I pulled the filter and mopped the fuel in the manager up w/ a towel, didn't have any thing to suck with. Refilled with red diesel and 2 stroke/30w mix. Checked oil and it is over the full line by an inch?:confused:

No fire....

Didn't check the LP yet as the truck was burried in 2 feet of weeds but i'm pretty sure I heard it. What I didn't hear was the GP's. Also no CEL or GP light in run position. I wouldn't be suprised if they are burned out though. IP/PMD SHOULD be good as they were only a couple weeks old when parked. Doesn't look too chewed up by mice.

If I get a chance I will pull the GP's, replace, and shoot some 2stroke/30w/farm diesel in the holes.

Where is the GP controller located/ what does it look like? pics would be great.

Is there any concern with the dash lights being burned out? How do I r&r?

Any other suggestions whould be great. Truck has been sitting over 4 years.

Pics for the heck of it:

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Nothing pretty bout it.
 
Yeah it earned its keep 3 times over, that is the only reason it wasn't sent to the salvage. The odometer hasn't worked since 2002-03 and it wasn't parked until 2006-07. So it has few more miles than it wants to admit to! The bed is beat and takes 2 screw drivers to open the tail gate. Both tail lights are held in by self tapping screws.
 
If the GP's and CEL are not coming on at all the ECM is not working. Could be blown fuse from the jump starting or rodent issues. If you cut the truck up I'll buy the tranny...:D
 
If the GP's and CEL are not coming on at all the ECM is not working. Could be blown fuse from the jump starting or rodent issues. If you cut the truck up I'll buy the tranny...:D

Tranny needs rebuilt (syncro's bad) so does t-case (shift forks worn out).

Tuck will never be cut up, it has sentamental value. It gave its blood, sweat, and tears for the sake of the farm, I will give mine back to the truck.

Most of the other dash lights come on if that matters. What fuses do I need to look for?
 
DANGIT! And I have the odd ball pump so its gonna be a pain in the ars to find one that matches at a salvage yard.

Before anyone suggests just buying a chip I am switching to DB2 since it is a stick, I'll figure out Cruise Control when everything else works.
 
Cruise control is fairly easy. I have mine converted to DB2 (1996 auto) So does my brother. He hooked up the cruise in his I still have not.
Get with War Wagon I think he has all the parts you need. One of the harder parts to find will be the throttle cable.
 
I would be very conserned about the oil being over full. Drain it to check for anti-freeze in it. It will need fresh oil anyhow from age and condensation.Fresh fuel wouldn't hurt either.
 
if the fuse is good try pull starting it. You can spin it over way faster than the starter ever could.

Can't pull start the T-case only holds 4 low and the rear wheels skid because 4x4 actuator is toast. We don't have much pavement to try pull starting on.

I the truck is gonna give me a challenge!
 
I would be very conserned about the oil being over full. Drain it to check for anti-freeze in it. It will need fresh oil anyhow from age and condensation.Fresh fuel wouldn't hurt either.

I plan on changing it as soon as it starts. Its not like I can drive it over 25 mph when I get it running any ways. My goal is to have it drive itself to the shop ~1 mile away then pull the t-case and change all fluids.

Oil looks black so no immediate signs so Anti Freeze in the oil.
 
I'd do the basics:

Gotta flush the fuel: Recommend that you disconnect the lift pump output, and wire it for 12V manually, pump all the old fuel out into yellow cans. Also recommend that you perhaps do this from the bleed line for the fuel filter, or the input line to the IP. That way, at least you're clean all the way to the IP. Put in some fresh fuel, and perhaps a can of SeaFoam.

Change out the oil and filter: I'd probably put a little SeaFoam in there as well - not too much, just a few ounces. It will help free up any varnished/sticky rings.

Fuel Filter: I'd also change out the fuel filter, and dump a bunch of Sea Foam in to the filter housing. It will help unvarnish the injectors.

Glows: I'd also pull the glows and make sure the glow system is working OK.

I love resurrecting old things, esp. ones with sentimental value...

Good luck!

(I've been using Sea Foam a LOT on the mini-van, and I can tell you it does do a very decent job of removing varnish and carbon deposits). It is a combination of pale oil, naptha, and IPA, and appears to remove varnish and deposits without swelling seals or wiping out rubber components. It definitely has a high solvent value, I'll say that. I was able to get remove the carbon build-up from the minivan's intake plenum without having to disassemble the intake (which normally requires dropping the engine on my mini-van. I introduced a boat-load of SeaFoam into the intake plenum with both a spray as well as pouring it into the brake vacuum booster while it was idling... but it's a gasser).

-Rob :)
 
I'd do the basics:

Gotta flush the fuel: Recommend that you disconnect the lift pump output, and wire it for 12V manually, pump all the old fuel out into yellow cans. Also recommend that you perhaps do this from the bleed line for the fuel filter, or the input line to the IP. That way, at least you're clean all the way to the IP. Put in some fresh fuel, and perhaps a can of SeaFoam.

Change out the oil and filter: I'd probably put a little SeaFoam in there as well - not too much, just a few ounces. It will help free up any varnished/sticky rings.

Fuel Filter: I'd also change out the fuel filter, and dump a bunch of Sea Foam in to the filter housing. It will help unvarnish the injectors.

Glows: I'd also pull the glows and make sure the glow system is working OK.

I love resurrecting old things, esp. ones with sentimental value...

Good luck!

(I've been using Sea Foam a LOT on the mini-van, and I can tell you it does do a very decent job of removing varnish and carbon deposits). It is a combination of pale oil, naptha, and IPA, and appears to remove varnish and deposits without swelling seals or wiping out rubber components. It definitely has a high solvent value, I'll say that. I was able to get remove the carbon build-up from the minivan's intake plenum without having to disassemble the intake (which normally requires dropping the engine on my mini-van. I introduced a boat-load of SeaFoam into the intake plenum with both a spray as well as pouring it into the brake vacuum booster while it was idling... but it's a gasser).

-Rob :)

I have no problem using Sea Foam in the oil and just changing the oil sooner to clean it out.

Right now I just want to be %100 sure it will fire off. IT WILL NOT be driven for atleast a year while I fix the t-case and trans and convert to DB2 and go through the engine components as well as fix the front axle bearings or do sas.

30+ gallons of fuel is alot to drain when its not bad. Pulled a sample today and all looked good. Even still red ):h oops did I say that?! Fuel filter and air filter was swapped out with the ones from my 95 ~2000 miles on them. Didn't see the point in putting new on it when I don't plan on driving it yet.
 
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Tried to take photos of the GP Controller and location for you last night but camera died. Here they are now.

Controller is next to the fuel filter manager towards the back of the engine. Mine is somewhat obscured by the boost probe and AIT guage line but it is back there.

Another shot of the GP controller outside the engine.
 

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Tried to take photos of the GP Controller and location for you last night but camera died. Here they are now.

Controller is next to the fuel filter manager towards the back of the engine. Mine is somewhat obscured by the boost probe and AIT guage line but it is back there.

Another shot of the GP controller outside the engine.

Thanks! Thats exactly what I needed. We just got 3+ inches of rain so no farming for the next couple days, hopefully my grandpa lets me sit on my @$$ alittle bit.
 
There won't be any sign of anti- freeze in the oil because it's at the bottom of the pan.Try taking the drain plug loose but not off. any water/anti-freeze will come out. If you start it with anti-freeze in the oil it will positively take the bearings out. The oil turns to a thick sludge that will barely come out the drain plug[guess how I know]. Might be worth getting help and tow to the shop instead of driving it.
 
There won't be any sign of anti- freeze in the oil because it's at the bottom of the pan.Try taking the drain plug loose but not off. any water/anti-freeze will come out. If you start it with anti-freeze in the oil it will positively take the bearings out. The oil turns to a thick sludge that will barely come out the drain plug[guess how I know]. Might be worth getting help and tow to the shop instead of driving it.

Ok Ill change the oil. Just threaten me with bearing failure and you get my attention real quick! I'm hoping it was just over filled by a hire hand or something, it wouldn't be the first time.
 
Didn't get to work on the truck today but....

I got do thinking, If I do the Mech IP, TM, and a manual GP controler can I do away with the PCM?
 
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