background: installed A Team Turbo. Left boost solenoid plugged in. Started truck, seasoned turbo using the stock ECM. Truck ran just fine. Swapped out the stock ECM with a KOJO tuned ECM (so I'm told) through Leroy Diesel. I followed KOJO's installation instructions to the letter. Now, the truck will not start. Why!? Anybody know?
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Truck will not start after KOJO tuned ECM installed
- Thread starter Tovar
- Start date
- Staff
- #2
Is the security light staying on constant? Sounds like the VATS didn't learn correctly to me.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
from what I understand the security feature can be a real PIA and may take several try's to get it to take
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I believe you can keep repeating. you just can't set TDCO until it's up to temp
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
- Staff
- #9
If the security light stays on, you need to do the theft learn until it will start. Then you can swap back to your old ecm, bring it up to temp, then swap back. Sounds like something didn't go correctly during the initial key on for the vats learn. Whenever the security light stays on, the vats(vehicle anti theft system) system is active and preventing it from starting.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
V.A.T.S.
Very
Annoying
Temperamental
Shi...I mean uh... System. Yeah system.
Just hang the dang horse (car) thief and eliminate keys and anti theft components all together...
Sorry rant over... for now....
Very
Annoying
Temperamental
Shi...I mean uh... System. Yeah system.
Just hang the dang horse (car) thief and eliminate keys and anti theft components all together...
Sorry rant over... for now....
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Did not see an update as to whether the re-learn worked.
If it was not attempted yet, here is the run-down on steps:
> Try to start like normal (wait for the WTS start light to turn 'Off' then crank). If the truck only cranks, does not start (or briefly lites and stalls), and the 'SECURITY' light remains 'On', leave the key in the 'Run / On' position and DO NOT cycle it to the 'Off' position (yet).
> Wait for the 'SECURITY' light to turn off (will take about 10 minutes), and *then* cycle the key to 'Off' for 30 seconds.
> Repeat the process until the truck starts.
In the past I have gone through 3 cycles for the truck and IIRC it is not uncommon for 5.
Also, while it is tempting to attach a battery charger during the re-learn process, have read notations that the voltage might not play well with the glow plugs and shorten their life. So, if the batteries are healthy, they will easily last through 5 full cycles (barring frigid temperatures).
Let us know how it goes . . .
If it was not attempted yet, here is the run-down on steps:
> Try to start like normal (wait for the WTS start light to turn 'Off' then crank). If the truck only cranks, does not start (or briefly lites and stalls), and the 'SECURITY' light remains 'On', leave the key in the 'Run / On' position and DO NOT cycle it to the 'Off' position (yet).
> Wait for the 'SECURITY' light to turn off (will take about 10 minutes), and *then* cycle the key to 'Off' for 30 seconds.
> Repeat the process until the truck starts.
In the past I have gone through 3 cycles for the truck and IIRC it is not uncommon for 5.
Also, while it is tempting to attach a battery charger during the re-learn process, have read notations that the voltage might not play well with the glow plugs and shorten their life. So, if the batteries are healthy, they will easily last through 5 full cycles (barring frigid temperatures).
Let us know how it goes . . .
Update: Did the described re-learn process for the VATS. Took three 10 min. periods. But...it worked. After the re-learn process using the KOJO ECM, I switched back to the stock ECM. Got the truck to operating temp., and then switched back to the KOJO ECM. Followed their instructions, and rig seems to be running fine (need more driving time to insure confidence).
Large thanks to Leroy from Leroy Diesel, and to all who gave me pearls of wisdom... You're the ones that got me back on the road.
Large thanks to Leroy from Leroy Diesel, and to all who gave me pearls of wisdom... You're the ones that got me back on the road.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
For grins, consider one more KOKO (not KOJO) routine to force the ECM (computer) to re-learn the IP's position (TDCO re-learn) just in case the ECM swapping cleared it out:
> Starting from Key 'Off' and engine cold (169F and cooler), simultaneously floor the fuel pedal (APP 100%) and turn the key to 'Run' but *DO NOT* attempt to start. Hold this for 60 seconds.
> At the end of 60 seconds simultaneously release the fuel pedal (APP 0%) and turn the Key to 'Off'. Wait for 30 seconds.
> At the end of 30 seconds, start and drive normally.
> When the coolant (ECT) reaches 170F the ECM will trigger a re-learn of the IP's physical mounting position and the motor might 'blib' / stumble very briefly (or you might not notice anything at all). If the motor grumbles, grouses, and belches for a while, this is an indicator that the IP is not healthy. If the Check Engine light turns 'On', this is an indicator that the IP needs physical adjustment (depending on the code) to bring it back to a normal range.
Back to the point . . . While KOJO probably set the TDCO re-learn as part of your tune, the swapping might have cleared it without it occurring. Reasoning for doing the TDCO re-learn is that ECM controlls the injection timing based on load and in order for it to do this job correctly the ECM needs to know the IP's actual mounting position on the motor.
Also, doing the TDCO re-learn is necessary whenever anybody removes & re-installs the IP, so keep this in mind for future use
> Starting from Key 'Off' and engine cold (169F and cooler), simultaneously floor the fuel pedal (APP 100%) and turn the key to 'Run' but *DO NOT* attempt to start. Hold this for 60 seconds.
> At the end of 60 seconds simultaneously release the fuel pedal (APP 0%) and turn the Key to 'Off'. Wait for 30 seconds.
> At the end of 30 seconds, start and drive normally.
> When the coolant (ECT) reaches 170F the ECM will trigger a re-learn of the IP's physical mounting position and the motor might 'blib' / stumble very briefly (or you might not notice anything at all). If the motor grumbles, grouses, and belches for a while, this is an indicator that the IP is not healthy. If the Check Engine light turns 'On', this is an indicator that the IP needs physical adjustment (depending on the code) to bring it back to a normal range.
Back to the point . . . While KOJO probably set the TDCO re-learn as part of your tune, the swapping might have cleared it without it occurring. Reasoning for doing the TDCO re-learn is that ECM controlls the injection timing based on load and in order for it to do this job correctly the ECM needs to know the IP's actual mounting position on the motor.
Also, doing the TDCO re-learn is necessary whenever anybody removes & re-installs the IP, so keep this in mind for future use
I did the process described by jaythecpa and no noticeable ill effects occurred. So, I'll assume all is well. Jaythecpa I noticed you have done the Duramox fan/clutch swap out. I would like that mod myself. Can you tell me all I need to know about that?
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
The first question is what water pump is on the truck? In 99 it can have the one where the fan clutch attaches by way of 4 bolts or 'spin-on' to a threaded hub. If it is the 4 bolt version water pump, consider planning to change it to the spin-on pump as this will get better coolant flow inside the motor.
Toward the total project, here are the basics of what I did in the Burb:
> High Output (HO) water pump (for the spin-on clutch). Take a look at Rock Auto's listing of parts for the 2002 C3500 Pickup with a 6.5 diesel.
> The DMax fan I used was from the earlier years (2001 - 2005) on the pickup. Do not recall whether it fits on the 'bolt-on' fan clutch.
> Restrictor in the bypass hose (search around for more details on this and why it is a good thing to do)
In terms of the installation, the DMax fan is larger than the shroud's opening, so cut it back until there is sufficient clearance for the fan.
Toward the project as a whole, there are different paths to take:
> Which fan clutch to use.
> Which coolant to use (glycol or 'waterless').
> Whether to replace the radiator. At a minimum, at least give the whole cooling stack a good cleaning.
Toward the total project, here are the basics of what I did in the Burb:
> High Output (HO) water pump (for the spin-on clutch). Take a look at Rock Auto's listing of parts for the 2002 C3500 Pickup with a 6.5 diesel.
> The DMax fan I used was from the earlier years (2001 - 2005) on the pickup. Do not recall whether it fits on the 'bolt-on' fan clutch.
> Restrictor in the bypass hose (search around for more details on this and why it is a good thing to do)
In terms of the installation, the DMax fan is larger than the shroud's opening, so cut it back until there is sufficient clearance for the fan.
Toward the project as a whole, there are different paths to take:
> Which fan clutch to use.
> Which coolant to use (glycol or 'waterless').
> Whether to replace the radiator. At a minimum, at least give the whole cooling stack a good cleaning.
Ed HD
Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
I'm sure RockAuto will have the fan & clutch. Just need to know what the clutch will be spec'd for. Not sure if a D-max fan clutch will work for you.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
You might call Leroy and see if he'll source the parts you need. They aren't listed on his site but, he's a man who can get things.
Heath sells the fan, clutch or a full on kit as does Kennedy.
Heath sells the fan, clutch or a full on kit as does Kennedy.