• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Truck starts than stalls

B

BDH

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Oregon
Hello
I have a 98 C3500 6.5 Turbo: Short History: It was running but had cracked heads, it was put in storage for 1-1/2 years (no batteries), just installed 2 new heads & batteries, when I went to start it it will fire for a second than stall, if i keep cranking after about 10 sec. it will fire again than stall.

I have read the post about the security/passcode Relearn Process and tried that twice with no luck.
The process states that when you try to start then leave the key on, after 10 min. the security light will go out.
The light would not go out on my truck.

I think it may still be a security problem, I have read a number of posts, double checked the ground wires, checked lift pump, bled the injector lines, tried to pull DTC, no codes, I did get a code when I disconnected the optical sensor on the IP during that test.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
Yes I purged the lines from the filter.
I also purged the injectors system 3 times.
I am getting fuel to each injector.
When it fires it runs good but it is only for couple of seconds.
I went through the test procedure for the pump mounted driver and injector pump
changed the PMD with another one no change
I checked the voltage at the "A" terminal on the PMD it is suppose to be 1.2 VDC or higher
when the voltage is there it will fire than the voltage drops to "0" and the engine stalls.
 
I checked fuses and I also tried a wire direct from the battery to bypass the switch still no luck.
 
I read you double checked the grounds, but did you clean them. I've been a victim of your symptoms from nasty grounds. Those OEM braided ones can look ok and be the culprit. I've switched to 4 guage grounds, but still have to clean them. The one on the frame near the downpipe is a PIA to get at(gearwrench is your friend). I've never had ignition switch problems on my 97. Knocking on wood for previous statement. Have you unplugged the ECM under the dash or moved anything around near there? I had the entire interior out for replacement and its was really cold when I plugged everything back in. After a couple of heat cycles in cab I got mystery codes and stalling. I fiddled with optic sensor and crank sensor with no results. I finally got pissed and last ditch looked at ecm, unplugged and carefully plugged it back in and issues went away(knocking on wood again). I guess my advise is don't overlook the simple stuff. Hope this helps. Also listen to all advise from posters, they have been a major part in keeping my truck running great and on the road, especially during engine swap.
 
hookedup50 said:
I read you double checked the grounds, but did you clean them. I've been a victim of your symptoms from nasty grounds. Those OEM braided ones can look ok and be the culprit. I've switched to 4 guage grounds, but still have to clean them. The one on the frame near the downpipe is a PIA to get at(gearwrench is your friend). I've never had ignition switch problems on my 97. Knocking on wood for previous statement. Have you unplugged the ECM under the dash or moved anything around near there? I had the entire interior out for replacement and its was really cold when I plugged everything back in. After a couple of heat cycles in cab I got mystery codes and stalling. I fiddled with optic sensor and crank sensor with no results. I finally got pissed and last ditch looked at ecm, unplugged and carefully plugged it back in and issues went away(knocking on wood again). I guess my advise is don't overlook the simple stuff. Hope this helps. Also listen to all advise from posters, they have been a major part in keeping my truck running great and on the road, especially during engine swap.
Click to expand...
I have not checked the ground connection on the truck body but I did clean and check all ground connections to the engine and battery.
I will try and unplug the ECM and plug it back in to see if that helps
Thanks
 
Search grounds on this forum and there is one by Turbine Doc that you need to read. Those grounds will affect the running of your truck. In particular the black wires that come off the firewall area and go to the stud where the tranny dipstick tube is mounted is important. I believe thats where they are from factory. I've moved mine over one so not sure. Clean all those in that thread, there are pics as to locations. After that check back with results.
 
There's one I'm pretty sure everyone seems to miss down low on the passenger side firewall that is easy to get at with the fender liner pulled back
 
ak diesel driver said:
Try this
Click to expand...
Thank you for the attached file.
This is the relearn procedure I have tried twice but the security light will not go out after you wait the 10 min. or even longer.
The security light is always on that is why I think it has something to do if this system.
It acts just as the book describes starts than stalls.
I am going to check and clean all ground connects again today and add a extra wire direct to the battery ground to eliminate any problems there.
Thanks again any other suggestions would be appreciated.
 
BDH said:
Thank you for the attached file.
This is the relearn procedure I have tried twice but the security light will not go out after you wait the 10 min. or even longer.
The security light is always on that is why I think it has something to do if this system.
It acts just as the book describes starts than stalls.
I am going to check and clean all ground connects again today and add a extra wire direct to the battery ground to eliminate any problems there.
Thanks again any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Keep trying,..it took 5 tries before i got the relearn to take when swapped a tuned ECM in
 
I have cleaned and checked all the ground connections, I have added extra wires direct from the battery ground to the manifold, body and frame so I know it is not a ground problem.
Bison said it took him 5 tries so i will try the relearn process a few more times.
Thanks
 
ak diesel driver said:
Try this
Click to expand...
Still trying to get passed the security issue on my 98 6.5 C3500 I have tried the relearn process about 10 times.
Also tried to bypass the key switch by using a resistor in line like they do for remote start system, then I tried the relearn
again a number of times but the security light come on and stays on even after 1/2 hour.
Do you have an suggestions or do you know someone that might be able to help me.
Thank you
 
clean the ground wires really good at the back of the intake. If that doesn't help you can try getting a reflash from the dealer or getting an aftermarket PCM with the passlock diabled
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top