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Truck Stalled After Starting

Mad Maxx

Mad Maxx

See, what had happened was...
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Location
Long Island, NY
Ok, so this is weird.

Went out to start my Truck for the first time today and it stalled.

Here's the timeline of events:

Started truck.

Idled for about 15-20 Seconds, puttered out and stalled.

Tried to restart and wouldn't, just cranked.

Popped hood, looked around, didn't notice anything outta whack.

Scanned for Codes, none current or past found.

Tried to start again, wouldn't, just cranked.

Pushed primer bulb a few times.

Tried to start, and after cranking for a while, it started. Had a light stumble / rough idle for about a minute, then idled fine.

Went and ran my errand, and truck drive fine. Didn't miss a beat, pulls like it always has when WOT. Rail pressure is right where it should be when comparing commanded and actual. Oil pressure is good (could prob. add a QT to the engine after checking level).

Any ideas?

Fuel Filter is fairly new...still have TTS Dual Lift Pumps.
 
Update...

Did part of the Filter Rebuild Kit a few months ago, only 2 O-rings left were the 2 on the inside, so I pulled the Filter, did the remaining 2 O-Rings, put on the Adapter and slapped on a new CAT 2-Micron Filter.

I did some searching and found other people with my problem and almost all the problems were fuel filter / WIF sensor related, in them not sealing properly and letting air get in the system.

So I'll keep my fingers crossed!!
 
That cat filter mod seems to be real finicky with the o rings sucking air if you don't get it just right. I have been thinking about going with that or just eliminating the factory filter when I install my FASS lift pump.
 
Marauderer said:
That cat filter mod seems to be real finicky with the o rings sucking air if you don't get it just right. I have been thinking about going with that or just eliminating the factory filter when I install my FASS lift pump.
Click to expand...

Weren't those problems with the knockoff filter adapter? Not the Nicktane?
 
I am not sure. I have some CAT filters left over from a Diesel Liberty I had and have considered chaging over. Now that I have the FASS lift pump sitting on the work bench getting ready to install I am still undecided. Got to finish getting the Stg V kit in the Allison with the Suncoast 1056 TC first.
 
Drove the Truck and all was good.

Did some more looking around about the Leaky Filter Head with the adapter and it seems the casting for the OE Heads wasn't that good, and wouldn't seal correctly. Seems the LB7 guys have the most problems, LLY a few problems, LBZ very few problems, LMM & Newer little to no problems.
 
I have had zero problems with mine. Just make sure you get the Nicktane head adapter good and tight, and use the drill bit to tighten like the instructions say. I think it is 1/4 inch bit. Then tighten up the spin on filter good and tight. Then be sure to pump the primer until good and hard. After a few years, I know only change the front filter every other year (CAT 1R0750). It is like it didn't even get dirty. I change the rear Nicktane filter every year (CAT 1R0749 tall can). As the years go on, it is cleaner and cleaner every time I change it and cut it open. The CAT filters are the best. I'd rate Baldwin right up there as well. I am now thinking of getting the nipple and changing over to the UHE filter. But I probably don't even need to.
 
I've had a similar problem with me '06 LBZ. I've done the new filter, o-rings, ect. on the last 2 filter changes and haven't been able to find out where the air is coming from. Happened yesterday (well after dark in the driveway and using the flashlight) and I found the leak. It's coming from the seal on the top of the manifold where the wires enter. Anyone had this problem or know the fix?
 
The problem with finiding leaks in a stock DURAMAX truck is the system runs under vacuum, not pressure. So leaks aren't visible normally since the system never runs under positive pressure to push the fuel out. SO it is adviseable to put 2-3 PSI of pressure in the system through the fuel filler to find leaks. One method is if you have a shop vac that can also be used as a blower. Hook the hose up to your fuel filler neck and put it to blow air out. It won't put more than a couple PSI to the system, but if you have a fuel leak it will push the fuel out. Common leak points are the fuel filter head where the fuel primer pump atatches, and teh rubber lines on the engine since the heat over the years breaks the rubber down.
 
Unless you have a fuel pressure gauge install. The lift pump will take the air out of the system if it isn't to big. and give you a good supply to the CP3 through the factory fuel filter mechanism. Which has a very prominent history of air leaks. I have been thinking of removing mine altogether but, I need to do more research if that creates more problems than it fixes.
 
The leak is around the base below the electrical connector on the left with the red/black wires. When using the pump ( vent plug open ) when the air stops gurgling from venting air and resistance on the pump increases when all the air is out, you can see a little fuel bubble out around the base. If it's real quiet (like last night) you can hear hear the slight his from the leak. The little white highlight at 6 o'clock on the base is a reflection off the small amount of fuel the seeped out around the base


The IMG_0913.JPG
 
That's an o-ring on that stub which is teh power feed wire to the fuel heater. ADVANCE now sells a rebuild kit for the filter heads. DORMAN # 904-124 for $23.99, and most stores stock it. Also ONLY run the metal filters, not the palstic ones which are prone to losing there seal and letting air in.
 
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