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Truck overheats

mitchedo

mitchedo

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Messages
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Location
Bountiful, UT
I have a spin-on, 9-blade metal fan. Whilst installing my engine, I had the radiator out to get cleaned at the local rad shop, but I think he charged me $120 to squeeze one of the tank clamp tabs (near the leaky spot I pointed out to him) with pliers and spray silver paint on my radiator. He told me he was going to remove the tanks, but I don't think he did. I don't think he did anything to the inside of the radiator, cuz when I got home, orange coolant dribbled out of the radiator. Luckily, it looks all shiny clean inside from anyway.

I was going to the cabin Saturday, a 2.5 hour drive up I-15, during which time the engine crossed 1000 miles on its rebuild, and all was well. It was about 80 degrees and I ran the AC all the way up at 75 mph.

Well, now I'm off the freeway, going up this long steep hill to the cabin, and after 3-4 minutes, I noticed the temp creep up a notch or two. Temps about 80, altitude about 6000 ft, grade more than 9%, speed about 30 mph, AC on, engine turning 1200-1500 rpm. Coolant is 50-50 Dex cool. Truck was empty except for me and an overnight bag and two laptops. I watched it carefully as it approached 210, at which time I turned off the radio and listened. I didn't notice the roar of the fan. About the time it shot past 210 (Wow! that happened fast!), I crested the hill and headed down, so it cooled off just before it hit the next big tic-mark. I was a little irritated, to say the least.

Sunday, we went in to town. It was raining and temp was about 70 degrees. When I headed up that same long hill on the way back, I shifted down to a lower gear so the engine was turning about 2000-2500 rpm. This time, the temp never budged off of normal.

I started wondering about cooling issues last week when It was 90 outside, and i noticed the temp gauge a tic and a half above where it normally runs. That time, I heard the fan engage, and the temp came right down and the fan kicked off.

So, methinks I have a couple of problems. I need to clean out my AC condenser and radiator. I blasted them with air while everything was apart a couple of months ago, but I was too lazy to scrub them with soap and water.

I might replace my radiator. I need to replace my fan clutch.

Do I just order the spin-on clutch from Heath, or do I call him and get the composite fan and the clutch it comes with? I don't need the whole kit; I have a brand-new OEM spin-on water pump and two brand-new thermostats from the stealer. Does the D-max fan do much more than my steel 9-blade fan? ...sure seems like it'd be lighter.

I need to get this fixed. I have a 7500 lb trailer to tow, and long, steep grades to pull while I'm doing it.
 
When I had my sander loaded with sand I found my engine always stayed in confort zone doing 2000ish rpm, 12-15k you're probably bogging it, making it work harder, plus less coolant circulation.

Go with a heath or kennedy heavy duty clutch. I have the OEM replacement, and it doesn't kick on at 210 unless I back the throttle off to let it 'catch in'. I wish I went Heath clutch.

My $.02 which is probably worth less than that:)
 
The fact that you're not loaded at all and having issues, leads to believe that you do have another more serious problem though. I never budge the 195's t-stats and I'm heavy. New radiator can't hurt, especially if you doubt yours now. Protect that new engine.
 
mitchedo said:
I need to clean out my AC condenser and radiator. I blasted them with air while everything was apart a couple of months ago, but I was too lazy to scrub them with soap and water.
Click to expand...
:nono:

First problem right there. Not to be mean, but seriously your next post should be "Ok I cleaned it properly".
Until you do there is not much help we can offer. It MUST be done. It is the most important thing you can do. If you are running this hot not towing forget pulling 7500 Lbs. You might as well just drain the antifreeze and put a brick on the fuel pedal cause seruios engine damage is a comin. As far as the fan goes, I'm on the fence. I like and trust the Heath boys but the dmax fan I have to me doesn't seem to pull much air. The stock one on my 2000 "sounds" like it pulls more but I have my own overheating issues in another thread. you should probably read it. Lots of good info which will give you a point in the right direction. As far as your rad, I would have just replaced it. I reaplced mine. I don't think you can boil the aluminum ones clean like you can the brass ones but hey that's just an opinion.
 
Like I said I'm not knocking it , it just doesn't "sound" like it's pulling as much. I was going to try switching them to see if it made any difference on either truck. The 2000 overheats towing too but I'm not dumping money into that worn out old whore.
 
Lots of great replies.

In retrospect, I should have just replaced the radiator. Like the rest of my cooling system, it looks brand new inside, without the slightest hint of corrosion or deposits, so I took it to the rad shop to have a spot where the tank clamps on fixed. It wasn't wet, but it looked like there had been the smallest amount of fluid seeping over the years. I had no idea he was going to charge me $120 for it, or I definitely would have just replaced it. The AC condenser looks quite clean, save a few bugs stuck in it.

I'll try to give the Heath guys a call today (work sucks, doesn't it). I like the idea of a composite fan instead of that big, heavy steel one. I don't want to run 180-degree stats like SSDiesel says I need with his kit, and the fact that Heath's actually shuts off until it's needed is a definite plus.

As long as the radiator is out, I may as well replace it. I'll scrub, scrub, scrub the AC condenser and the tranny cooler. I can do my own AC recharge, so I might accidentally take it out and clean it. I hate to break into a perfectly-functioning AC system, though. Like I said (or didn't), as long as I kept the rpm's a little higher, it didn't give me any trouble; I think most of my problem might be the clutch -- though it really shouldn't need to come on on a 90 degree day on a flat freeway with an unloaded truck at 70 mph either.

The oil cooler is new. Surge tank and cap are both new. All hoses are new.

I read all the cooling issues these trucks have, but I just never dreamed it would be so much worse than my old Suburban 2500 with its gas 350. That thing will tow all day long at full throttle up any hill on the hottest day with the AC roaring, and never overheat.

...and I gotta get those gauges outta my closet and installed in my truck.
 
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You might be surprised when you clean it. You can't see how bad it is sometimes until you remove the stuff. After an a$$ chewing for laziness by Bill H I found out how bad it can really be.
 
I can get a lifetime radiator from Autozone for $250. It's the same brand as the one SSDiesel sells, Spectra 1523. I've already read that nobody makes one any heavier-duty, so I'll probably go that route.

My time is more valuable to me than money, yet I didn't take the time to scrub scrub scrub, and I had read all the advice that it's necessary.:mad2::mad2:
 
I talked to Bill, and ordered his Super-Cool fan clutch / composite blade set up for my truck.

Radiators: Anyone have preference on Ready Rad vs Spectra? I can get Spectra from the local AutoZone with lifetime warranty. Ready Rad is more expensive, but a little smaller.

Summit has a brass radiator, but it's over $400, and I don't think it'd cool as well as the aluminum -- heat transfer differences between Cu and Al notwithstanding.
 
I put a Spectra rad in my rig about 1 month ago...I paid $160 (Cost $; to the Mom and Pop part store)....No lifetime warranty tho.

No problems so far.
 
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