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Truck Just Wont Start

BigBearZach

BigBearZach

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today i was out and about driving my truck and having no issue to speek of. i get home shut the truck down and go get ready for work about 45 min later i come back out and turn the key and all i get is a little clicking, did it a few times and thats all it did was faintly click. well about an hour later i came back and tryed to start it again, the same thing but this time on about the 3 turn of the key everything went dead(gauges, radio). so i left it in the driveway and went to work well i had to run back home for something and when i got their i tryed again, well i got about 3 turns of the key after hearing the faint clicks everything went dead. if someone can help me it would be a big help.
 
Off top my head since we have cold snap on Gulf Coast rite now, you are having battery issues, I sent you a PM call me tomorrow clean terminals are a must, also the 2 positves left to right bank battery cable has a spacer connector between them that also has to be cleaned. if you have the factory side stud still that connection sux and needs a battery post mod done on it.
 
Did you check alternator is it charging properly? how far gone were batts when replacing, bad batts kill alts, also look to last maintenance item, possibly did batt terminals loosen up since the batt swap,

were connections cleaned to bright shiney clean, and a corrosion inhibitor applied, are gnds at block clean, is pos connection on starter clean?

Common theme is all power lost to truck, not the same as a no start without ability to crank, you have a no crank and no instrument condition which is total loss of power,

could be a fuse but with cold weather we just had dropped in our laps tonight/today that looks like bad power connections to me.

Put charger on the batts, 1 lug to pos 1 batt and neg to the neg to other side batt that way both batts get charged, does your charger have a charging rate meter on it, if batts are new/good then your charge should go from hi current to low current pretty quickly
 
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i dont know if it matters but it rebult some of its jucie last night and when i went to try it the glow plug light did not come on
 
Check all the bat cables and connections on both side of cables. Clean grounds at the rear of intake by trans dip stick too.
 
Some time back, around two years maybe, I started a thread called "Here's why you check your battery cables". Thinking this would be a good thread for BigBearZach, as think I had pics in it also, I tried to find it, but couldn't.

For those who are better at computers than I am can somebody find it? I tried advanced search, but couldn't find it.

Anyway, the upshot is that the battery cables can be badly corroded inside the insulating covering and it is not easy to see. The stock cables have a red rubber cover completely surrounding the brass mounting plate. This rubber covering can create problems with getting good contact between the battery post and the cable. Completely remove the outer end portion of this covering and wirebrush the contact surface of the cable end so you can insure the battery cable is making good contact with the battery.

Don
 
well today i had a jump box on the batteries and i think its the starter now because it had power and all i got was a couple little clicks when i turned the key so im going to pull the starter, altenator, and batteries and get them all tested to see if i can find my problem
 
Thank you Leroy!!! I leaned something new today, how to look up my old threads.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?25866-Here-s-Why-You-Check-Your-Battery-Cables

Anyway, here's the thread that I was thinking of. The pics aren't the best, but they'll give you an idea of what to look for. Big Bear, I understand that you're now thinking the problem may be the starter. I'm including the link to the thread I was referencing so that if somebody else in the future looks up this thread for help they will be able to get additional info.

Don
 
Don I added to 6.2/6.5 TRL even though it is a electrical common problem all vehicles took me a while to find it as well as my searches were in this forum vs. electrical section where it was hiding out battery cables in electrical go figure :) I feel so dum looking here only :mad2:
 
jrsavoie said:
Thanks, I always do the same thing. If it's related top our vehicles I search here first
Click to expand...

Early on we sort of lumped all in one bag because it didn't matter with low traffic we had here, but traffic is up so we are trying to make the change so electrical goes to electrical, drivetrain to drivetrain etc. we move as makes sense if it isn't a model specific question/issue to where it best fits, actualy after this one plays out and if it turns into something not unique to the 6.5 I or one of the other mods will move to electrical. Going foward we need assistance from members to post where appropriate or even use the report button to let the mods know to take a loot at something that may not be located in best place for issue being discussed.
 
IT does make it hard to search for things. A lot of what is relevant to 6.5's electrically isn't so relevant to all the other vehicles.

And people just don't look at all the sub-forums much. I mostly just look at the 6.5 section. Questions posted in the sub forums don't get much in the way of responses.
 
Not to digress too much( my apology to the OP for the derail) I'll add this: and if you want to discuss further we can do it in an independent thread in OT.

JR you comments are noted, but be that as it may;

New folks if we start using the sub forums like rest of the forum worlds do will benefit from it, reason sub forums don't get much traffic is because we never had much spin off traffic that warranted it, we do now so as we get bigger to make us better we will be doing more migration to the appropriate sub forums.

This case for example corroded battery cables isn't just unique to the 6.5, and others could benefit from lessons there, but elements of this post overall are germane to how one troubleshoots a 6.5; and why we are leaving it here as long as it makes sense to do so.

Maybe as a good compromise we put into the 6.2/6.5 TRL those unique good posts that should be stuck for future reference;

One caveat, we seasoned 6.5ers need to promote that area as well, no other 6.2/6.5 site has the volume of info we do in a easy to find location, DPl has it because we put that over there when we participated there before the "sellout" to MEGAFORUMS Inc. they would not have squat or only a little squat in that regard without work those migrating here did there back in the day.

Often I see folks ask a question and it goes to a lengthy discussion how to do X and it has been fully covered in the TRL yet none of the seasoned 6.5ers choose forwhatever reason to guide folks to the TRL,

That is the easist search of all IMO and whole purpose of the HUGE amount of work to create the TRL.
 
I had this same issue on my 95 one cold night last week and after I went and wiggled all of my cables it fired right off, I cleaned the starter cables and haven't had a problem yet.
 
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