• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Trouble code ?s

WarWagon, I owe you another thanks. The block heater, even though compression dog was tight, was loose in the freeze plug hole. If you didn't state what happened to you, that was gonna ruin my engine again. I ran out and got one at Napa immediately. I wish they weren't so much of a pain to install in a K truck. These heaters either leak, burn out yearly with me. Thanks again.
 
I was thinking maybe thats the case. I've had one cord go, a couple of leakers, any mostly element burnout. That last one that leaked, wasn't gonna pop off, I had a really hard time getting that one out. When I was working in New Jersey, I might have needed to plug in a couple of weeks a year. Now in Massachusetts, I'm up to 2 months, which is childs play to upper northern climates. I started it up this morning unplugged at 5 degrees. It started, but was smoky for about 5 seconds till the glow cycle got hot enough to burn all the fuel
 
I would also suspect that you had a fuel related issue as well as what you already mentioned. You may have had some mild gelling going on in those temps. I use the white bottled Power Service in the winter months. I also use 1.5 times the amount when extremely low temps are expected. For what it's worth, my Duramax rattles a little more with this winter blended fuel.
 
Drop it in gear and powerbrake for 20-30 sec - generators come up to full load after oil pressure comes up. Any longer and the auto trans suffers overheating. I find this helps end white smoke when cold. You can experiment with how much throttle to use.
 
Just a rant here, and thanks for listening. I ran out and got another block heater, and installed it, only to find it leaking through the element. WTF done ranting.
 
I took the truck out yesterday pre-blizzard, and got same codes as before. I can eliminate grounds from the equation, as they are cleaned and properly attached. Thetranny, air intake and, and coolant codes are pretty much non issue as guages were normal. I have not had a chance to put the attach the laptop to the computer to look at timing, but my thinking at the moment is the crank position sensor. AK, If I disconnect the CPS and it runs, that would tell me it is running off the OS? If it doesnt start, the OS is dead? Fuel is no longer an issue now.
 
Thank you. I was just making sure I remember some of your old posts correctly.
 
I had time to mess with truck today and while running I unplugged the CPS and it died, which according to other threads leads me to changing the OS. I have a known working one off my old IP, and read a thread on changing it out. It mentions marking a reference on it as to where to reposition it. How critical is this? Can it be a scribe mark off and still function?
 
Thank you once again. I'm going out in the weekly blizzard and R and R ing the OS. Then I'll throw the laptop with carcode and check the fuel rate.
 
ak diesel driver said:
IIRC you should hook a scanner up to it and read the fuel rate at idle it should be around 7-8 mm
Click to expand...
Correct.

Set your idle fuel which will get the OS in an acceptable range.

Here's a link with some pics:

http://www.mamut.net/royh/newsdet9.htm

I do find it odd that you have a crank sensor code and not one of the codes associated with the OS failure. Unplugging the crank sensor and stalling seems to support the OS being at fault. I usually check the OS frequency output to confirm it's dead before changing one. You should also see missing OS counts on a scanner. Carcode will give you the high and low miss counts, but won't show the freq. You need a multimeter with freq to do that.

I've yet to change an OS without an associated code or confirmed freq/count fault, but it could happen I guess....
 
BJ, I get one transmission code, a ect code and a ait code with the with the cps code. Thanks for replying. Any thoughts. Grounds are clean.
 
great white said:
correct. Set your idle fuel which will get the OS in an acceptable range.

Here's a link with some pics:

http://www.mamut.net/royh/newsdet9.htm

I do find it odd that you have a crank sensor code and not one of the codes associated with the OS failure. Unplugging the crank sensor and stalling seems to support the OS being at fault. I usually check the OS frequency output to confirm it's dead before changing one. You should also see missing OS counts on a scanner. Carcode will give you the high and low counts, but won't show the freq. You need a multimeter with freq to do that.

I've yet to change an OS without an associated code or confirmed freq/count fault, but it could happen I guess....
Click to expand...
hookedup50 said:
BJ, I get one transmission code, a ect code and a ait code with the with the cps code. Thanks for replying. Any thoughts. Grounds are clean.
Click to expand...
a quick and dirty check would be to unplug the OS sensor and see if it still runs in backup fuel.

I've had a couple where it would run with the OS plugged in, but not with it out. That would seem to indicate the CPS is bad, but when I metered the OS freq, the OS was bad. Swapped out the OS and everything was good again.

These old trucks can be a bit bizarre if you don't do all the troubleshooting....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top