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Trailer tire dry rot

rlb

rlb

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Got some dry rot on trailer tires. Got this old trailer free with a boat.

Boat is 5500lbs. I think the trailer is rated for 10-12k lbs.

Saltwater. I am replacing brakes, leaf springs, lights, bearings and assorted hardware.

Here are some pics of the 225/75/15 D rated trailer tires.
57d1d868edd5efe36d27faa7ddfb2b81.jpg
20c8dda3de5f908e355aa93a05eb651d.jpg


Some dry rot is noticeable. Have a look. Replace or run em?


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Replace if you don't want to be that guy on the roadside changing tires. And don't forget the wheel bearings. Grease seperates over time when it sits, and the oil runs out of it leaving just a thick gunk, and then your wheel bearings lock up.
 
Once you see the cracking inbetween the treads there is no hope. Discount tire offers a dry rot gaurantee For trailer tires.
 
Will L. said:
Once you see the cracking inbetween the treads there is no hope. Discount tire offers a dry rot gaurantee For trailer tires.
Click to expand...

That is some good info, thanks! :thumbsup:

I agree, replace them. In that shape they will blow as soon as they get hot.
 
I would say replace them. But it all depends on how long your drive is to and from where your boat is. If it is a short distance, then you may be OK. But it you have a long drive, then I would definitely replace them. I learned the hard way from my travel trailer. With trailer tires, you most often replace them by years of use, not necessarily miles or treadwear. Since I only drive my trailer about twice yearly for less than 1000 miles total, the tread certainly does not wear out. But if I do not replace them every 4 years, then on the 5th year, I am on the side of the road changing a tire. Odd, but that is what I have to do. The tires heat up and while sitting there in the sun, over time, the tire separates. The rubber separates from the inner canvas, and then you get the flats, or blow outs.
 
I am with RI Chevy; it depends on use.

I have seen tires in worse shape that get ~7 miles on them a year, maybe get up to 50 mph for 1 mile, and the owners (not me, honest) replacement plan is to only do so when absolutely necessary.

If these are going to see any real travel, they are burnt toast and need replacement. If money is an issue, pick the 'best' of the lot as a spare and then replace the spare next year.
 
Thanks for the advice. I am going to replace the tires.

Will have to skimp elsewhere to make up the cost, but I think I can make it work. I've had this thing in my driveway for 2 days and have been coming up with a plan of attack. Just now as I stare at pictures of it on my computer while at work, I realized I can make a good weld repair on these roller brackets that have all corroded in the same place, versus replacing them or converting the trailer to bunks. There are 16 of these brackets and they are $20 a pop! That will almost cover a set of tires.
 
What is the age of the trailer tire from the DOT code link here? What was the heat and sun it was stored in?

I try and avoid any trailer tires over 5 years old including the spare. The trailer tires are good for around 30,000 miles used every business day. Age kills them before the tread goes away most of the time.

I have had the spare tire blow out with an exciting bang. Granted it was bald. Many trailer tires including Goodyear have been known to separate while sitting still. I have refused to hook up to a trailer or few with tires so bad I didn't think they would make it to the tire store for 7 replacement tires. 6+Spare.

I would recommend you look at the replacement tires and avoid:
Made in Communist China
Hi-Run brand

It CAN be done and will cost you a little $$ more. Well worth it when it makes it there and back without ripping the fender off and you getting nasty cuts from changing shredded steel belt sharp rims with some debris, formally known as a tire, still attached.
 
I'll see if I can get the age of them. There is one tire that is substantially worse than those in the pictures. That tire I was definitely planning on replacing.

They all have pretty much 100% tread. The trailer was parked in an open lot near brackish water. Boat sat on a lift, trailer was very rarely used.

Its a 1990 glavanized tandem axle EZ loader trailer. The galvanized frame and major bolts are all in great shape. The leaf springs, hardware, surge actuator, brakes and some of the rollers and hardware are getting replaced. I'm about to place a $800 order with easternmarine.com for the brakes, springs and hardware.

Before I hit the highway I pulled it around for a few miles locally and checked the hub temperatures. All was good so I pulled this trailer (empty) 2.5 hours on the highway back in 90 degree heat Saturday. One bearing was running a little warm at the halfway point. I have trailer towing coverage through Boat US so if it locked up or a tire blew, it was going on a flatbed. It made the trip back fine.
 
rlb said:
. The leaf springs, hardware, surge actuator, brakes and some of the rollers and hardware are getting replaced. I'm about to place a $800 order with easternmarine.com for the brakes, springs and hardware.
Click to expand...

Just my .02 worth, but when I did a complete brake redo on my car trailer it was cheaper to convert it to electric than to rebuild the actuator, new lines, and brakes. And now I also have a little bit more control over my brakes.
 
ghostrider500 said:
Just my .02 worth, but when I did a complete brake redo on my car trailer it was cheaper to convert it to electric than to rebuild the actuator, new lines, and brakes. And now I also have a little bit more control over my brakes.
Click to expand...

It would be way cheaper, and I have a brake controller and like electric brakes.

However I was informed that electric brakes are a no-no for a boat trailer. Because of water and corrosion.

OTOH Electric brakes are so cheap I would probably break even (yup) or come out ahead if I just threw new electric brakes at it every 2-3 years.
 
rlb said:
It would be way cheaper, and I have a brake controller and like electric brakes.

However I was informed that electric brakes are a no-no for a boat trailer. Because of water and corrosion.

OTOH Electric brakes are so cheap I would probably break even (yup) or come out ahead if I just threw new electric brakes at it every 2-3 years.
Click to expand...

If they made it that long, you would be lucky. Electric brakes hitting saltwater would be lucky to make it 6 months before a coil failure. Hydraulic drum or disc is the way to go. Discs are alot less trouble, but hydraulic is the only way.
 
Today, after 2 days of hitting the lugs with Pb Blaster, I am going to try and remove a wheel and hub from my trailer so I can measure, and order new brake assemblies. I understand that a 12" x 2" is the inside diameter of the drum, and width of the brake contact area.

Depending on the condition, I may have to order new hubs, bearings, drums as well. At least one hub will need new bearings anyway.

What are the critical measurements I need to take in order to buy the right size bearings, hubs and bearing buddy's to fit my spindles?

I'm guessing these hubs are probably the right fit...

http://www.easternmarine.com/dexter-...ease-cap-k08-2

Is the grease seal ID what determines the bearing buddy size?

Are the bearing sizes listed here the ID of the bearing race?
 
Well I got everything figured out. Pulled a hub today. Buy bearing buddies. The bearings were immaculate.

Everything else was trash. There were no brake shoes. They disintegrated

d08544c5ce30407c3cc2713f09d915c1.jpg



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I am getting new hubs, bearings, drums and brake assemblies. New leaf springs and hardware too.


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