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Totally stumped!!...help a brotha out!

yup, like I mentioned above - the serp. drive pulley is the culprit. I think GM calls it 'Harmonic balancer Pulley' and the harmonic balancer, 'Harmonic Balancer Assembly'.

Glad someone mentioned it - I always forget to take pix until AFTER I'm done fixing something......fortunately even if I forget this time I can snap the pix on the bench.

I'm picking up both HB and Pulley this afternoon. Would not get that far into it and not replace both. I'm going to search here but just in case I can't find anything....will a regular puller remove the pulley? anything I need to be aware of or lookout for?

Thanks guys and gal :D
 
It makes my day to be able to 'pay it forward' back to the forums... I'm extremely interested in the HB R&R as I'd like a Fluidampr before winter.

Also extremely interested in the condition of your HB.
 
Only got to swap out the Dampener pulley (impact wrench is old and weak...to weak to loosen the HB bolt :mad2:) will pick up a new one tomorrow. The rubber on the HB looks a whole lot better(no dry rot cracks that I could see) than the Dampener pulley....but it will get swapped this weekend.
I think this things been broke for awhile - it just finally broke all the way last week. For two years at least I've had this horrible clunk/knock every time I shut the engine off....it's the last thing I would hear.....not any more! :D

Pix are in my garage......errr, whatever they call it here.
 
Just put a autozone alternator in her tonight, 2 3/8ths pulley... Replaced the Napa one that was on there for year and 1/2 that was 2 3/8ths too...

My high idles are right where they should be though according to specs... Never measured the orignal to me one... Now I have a lifetime warranty, so Let her fry...

Drove home 45miles today with no alt working.... Batts stayed at 12 and never budged.
 
Hey Matt, the small pulley won't hurt the alternator but your RPM's should be off by 200. There are calculators on the net you can put in your gear ratio, final drive ratio, and tire size and speed and it will give you exact RPM's. Mine were off by 200 when I was running the 2 3/8" pulley. Now they're dead on the money. My idle used to always be around 500 rpm - now it shows 700 like it should.
 
Pix are up for my harmonic balancer....it was not as in good of shape as it looked using a mirror(kinda hard to see the backside).

Glad I replaced them both. I think the HB must have slipped some because I used to have a noticeable vibration when pressing in the clutch to shift - especially third and O/D - now it's gone.
 
Hey Matt, the small pulley won't hurt the alternator but your RPM's should be off by 200. There are calculators on the net you can put in your gear ratio, final drive ratio, and tire size and speed and it will give you exact RPM's. Mine were off by 200 when I was running the 2 3/8" pulley. Now they're dead on the money. My idle used to always be around 500 rpm - now it shows 700 like it should.

I never really felt like I had a hobby until I bought this truck...always something new to learn from you guys. Thanks.:grouphug:

Today, I've learned about pulleys on alternators. Apparently AutoZone isn't alone in the 2 3/8" department. Soon as I read this I went out and discovered that I too have a 2 3/8 pulley on my new alternator from Checker/O'Reilly etc. I'll be replacing the HB and company when the HO water pump upgrade goes in with radiator and and and....Might as well as I'll be in there and with the radiator out, it'll easily accessible. No issues with it but as my signature says, I'm the 5th owner of this vehicle and it received no luv until I bought it. Thanks again all.
 
I'm gonna tackle the HB this year I think too. Can you explain the process you did to R&R? The method you used to take it off, and the method you used to re-install please.
 
When you guys do your HB's don't do like I did and totally forget about the front main seal.....until the HB was sitting on the bench and I'm staring at the front main thinking.......I'm gettin stupid or old....or maybe both....another trip to town....three box stores and they all said the same thing "nope, don't have it but I can have it here tomorrow". I put it all back together without replacing it. Made sure the seal was clean and wiped a thin layer of grease on the HB hub. So far it's not leaking but I'm gonna replace it next weekend anyway.

I have been dreading the day I would have to swap the HB but honestly, it's not that bad. I got to do the pulley twice so I got some real recent practice that helped the next day when I did it all over again. I timed it this morning, it took me an hour and a half from start to finish...and I'm very meticulous when I work on anything and I NEVER rush.

Man, my ole girl feels a lot smoother now - especially over 2000 rpms.
 
When you do it again can you take pictures of the puller installed on it before you pull it, and take a picture of the method you used to re-install??

You never explained how you re-installed it either. Please do.

I've had shroud/fan/Pulley off a few times myself, and can get right to that HB part in probably 15 minutes. Just scared of getting there and getting into a jam. That's why I'd like to hear your method since you just did it, and since you were dreading the day yourself, your experience is close to mine already.

Thanks for the heads up on the front seal.

Did you just use a regular 'pulley puller?' I'm extrememly curious about your re-install method. SOme say impact it on, some use pulley bolts on the puller to torque with....

It never ends, since your taking the front cover off to replace the seal, isn't the chain right there too?? Should I plan on front seal and chain job at the same time too?
 
Hey Matt, I'll put up some instructions with pix this afternoon. It's really easy. Now I say that being a flatlander - I don't think this truck has ever seen any snow, so no salt either. What might be easy on my truck, may be much more difficult for my brethren of the Northern persuasion :D - especially all you guys that spend all of your extra time pushing the white stuff to make the green stuff.

I never heard so many horror stories about un-bolting stuff on some trucks. Then I noticed someone would put up a pic of their engine (from up thar) and I freaked when I first saw them - never seen an orange engine before...unless it was painted.

Smitty
 
Hey Matt, I'll put up some instructions with pix this afternoon. It's really easy. Now I say that being a flatlander - I don't think this truck has ever seen any snow, so no salt either. What might be easy on my truck, may be much more difficult for my brethren of the Northern persuasion :D - especially all you guys that spend all of your extra time pushing the white stuff to make the green stuff.

I never heard so many horror stories about un-bolting stuff on some trucks. Then I noticed someone would put up a pic of their engine (from up thar) and I freaked when I first saw them - never seen an orange engine before...unless it was painted.

Smitty

Excellent. Much appreciated.

OH yeah, working on trucks up here, you just assume every bolt will come out tough... and always spray down everything with pb blaster a few days before....

For exhaust stuff, a torch is necessary 100% of the time.

Salt is nasty stuff, especially when people don't hose it off regularly, which isn't the easiest of things to do when water freezes almost instantly at times...
 
I have bought several rigs off of ebay.
Currently the 94 Burb is an ebay buggy.
The DaHooooley was found lurking on auto trader.
The 91 Burb was scrounged up off craigs list.

Eaby is my fav place to shop for a lot of things

Bought a new set of pistons for the DaHoooley 6.5 build off ebay for $199
Rings for $35 (complete set of GM factory rings for all 8 holes)

Bearings, both rods and mains $50 (Mahle brand)

MGW
 
Matt, pix are up. If they're not good enough to help you let me know and I'll take some live 'action' shots when I do it all again next weekend to replace the front main.

MGW, to quote Arnold from different strokes "watchu talkin bout"?

:D
 
Matt, pix are up. If they're not good enough to help you let me know and I'll take some live 'action' shots when I do it all again next weekend to replace the front main.

MGW, to quote Arnold from different strokes "watchu talkin bout"?

:D

Very much appreciated!!!! Excellent pix and descrips... Thanks again. Something that simple makes me very confident about doing the job now.

I like the german torc spec too. I have heard others do it this way too.

How did you cut the hardened impact socket btw? Plasma Cutter?
 
No plasma cutter involved - Impact sockets are soft steel....so they won't crack from the shock of a impact driver. I just cut it off with my dewalt 4 1/2" angle grinder - if you've never used the DeWalt DW8062 .045" thick cutoff wheels give them a try. These things cut metal a lot better than the standard 1/8" thick wheels. They look scary thin but I've never had one break and they last a lot longer than the thicker ones - probably because they're technically cutting less metal and they cut so much faster.

I cut a hardened Master lock off a buddies tree stand that he lost the key to - you could tell it was hard steel - a lot less sparks but it cut right through it.
 
No plasma cutter involved - Impact sockets are soft steel....so they won't crack from the shock of a impact driver. I just cut it off with my dewalt 4 1/2" angle grinder - if you've never used the DeWalt DW8062 .045" thick cutoff wheels give them a try. These things cut metal a lot better than the standard 1/8" thick wheels. They look scary thin but I've never had one break and they last a lot longer than the thicker ones - probably because they're technically cutting less metal and they cut so much faster.

I cut a hardened Master lock off a buddies tree stand that he lost the key to - you could tell it was hard steel - a lot less sparks but it cut right through it.

:iagree:They cut through steel like a knife through butter, they cut flesh even quicker

Leo
 
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