• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Totally stumped!!...help a brotha out!

Odlaw

Odlaw

Redneck
Messages
577
Reaction score
40
Location
Deep in the woods - near Waldo, FL
Heres the deal; Last week compressor started knocking(as described in prev post).....well, it sounded just like the compressor knocking. I installed new compressor, dryer and condenser w/orifice tube. Flushed evaporator and hoses completely, pulled vac. on it overnight, checked for leaks - none. Shot two ounces of oil and almost one can of 134 before starting the truck. Fired her up, turned the A/C on - same knock!:mad2: Added the rest of oil and 134. System blows ice cold but knocks pretty loud.....I decide to turn off the A/C and the knock is still there.


Here's what I've checked and my findings.

While running, checked all belt driven componenets with mechanics stethoscope - every thing sounds smooth and nothing makes any noise like the knocking sound - oh and the sound comes out the loudest in front of the grill - dead center - and it sounds just like a knocking compressor.

With truck off, removed belt and hand checked all components for any play or bad bearings - everything seems normal to me.

I noticed when anything loads the engine (ie. alternator during after glow cycles) the rattle gets worse.

I cranked the truck with the belt off just to see if the harmonic balancer was making the noise - nothing.

I have new tensioner pulley bearing, new alternator (not reman),new A/C compressor.

I'm still glad I replaced the compressor because it was the original with almost 200k miles on it. Leaked like crazy and the orifice tube I just replaced had chunks of metal all over it and was a glob of black nasty mess.


As always, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Smitty
 
Crank pulley.

Same EXACT sound I was chasing.

Take the belt off, and try to move it with your 2 hands. I bet it moves.

The reason it doesnt make noise with belt off is its not loaded. The rubber's shot and its hitting the bolts as a stop.

Been there. Done that with a cheap NAPA replacement. Get a Delco.

Mine sounded like a piece of the grill was rattling with my ear IFO engine.
 
Yeah, it sounds like metal to metal hitting. Even though it sounds like it's coming from the water pump area - pump spins fine with no noise at all.

When this rain stops I'm going to pull the upper shroud and fan so I can get to everything and I'll check the crank pulley.

Matt, do you recall how much that thing cost at the stealership?

Thanks
 
No, I replaced mine as PM due to forum paranoia and to get a rough feel of what the rubber on my HB looks like...

I ended up doing a Power steering pump R&R chasing that noise thinking it was that, as it was whining a little anyhow. It was when I had my shroud off and fan out that I saw it hitting the bolts. I put my OEM back on as I never through it away (for this reason)...

Saving junk paid off. FWIW the NAPA part said CHINA right on it... go figure.
 
Ouch - just got off the phone with the Stealership - $210.00 for the harmonic balancer and $130.00 for the crank pulley!!

Is this one of those "must be OEM" parts or are the ones Heath carry any good?
Heaths are $119.00 and $99.00.....SSD's are $87.00 and $80.00....and even though I've never had any problems with anything purchased from SSD ...several comments on this site and the other place have me a little apprehensive to buy anything there again. :nonod:

Thanks
 
Glad to hear the positive opinions on SSD.

Matt, how long did your part from NAPA last? I'm in a bind now (wifes pathfinder is still in the body shop) and I can't afford to have ole blue down while I wait on ordered parts - gonna have to be NAPA or if I win the lottery, the Stealership!

Thanks
Smitty
 
Odlaw said:
Glad to hear the positive opinions on SSD.

Matt, how long did your part from NAPA last? I'm in a bind now (wifes pathfinder is still in the body shop) and I can't afford to have ole blue down while I wait on ordered parts - gonna have to be NAPA or if I win the lottery, the Stealership!

Thanks
Smitty
Click to expand...

I probably just got a bad one.... That or it wasn't built to take the turn off absorbsion. It was about a month that I started to notice the rattle. Mine went away with rpm. Drove it for a few weeks like that thinking it was P/S pump :(.... If you're in a jam give it a shot.

Mine separated where the rubber meets the inner circle.
 
Not sure if its true or not, But i heard somewhere that GM used Dorman to make their Crank pulley and HB...

Like I said, I doubt 100% of Napa's are junk... Just 100% of the ones for me :) 1/1.

You did verify that is the problem, correct?

With belt off and skid plate off you should be able to get your hands on it from underneath, if you can't from up top. Visual might show the bolt holes out of center, resting up against the stops.

It took both hands to slowly move my NAPA china pulley, but it did move. I also had a hard clunk at shutdown, now I know the difference between that and the absorbed thump.
 
You nailed it Matt!

Didn't have to pull anything off the truck to see it either - used my inspection mirror and light. Bolts are off center and a couple of them are beat a little flat on the side and there is the imprint of the bolt flange on the webbing where it has been smacking against it.

as always, thanks. I was beginning to think I was chasing my tail.

Smitty
 
I bought the NAPA balancer and pulley about 3 months ago and I haven't had any problems with them yet. Wish me luck. The good thing about my NAPA is the guy that owns it lives here locally and he would replace something that went bad like that in a short amount of time. He has really good customer service. I tend to go to him instead of the AutoZone and AdvanceAuto for the service and I have noticed I think the parts are on a whole a better product.
 
Odlaw said:
You nailed it Matt!

Didn't have to pull anything off the truck to see it either - used my inspection mirror and light. Bolts are off center and a couple of them are beat a little flat on the side and there is the imprint of the bolt flange on the webbing where it has been smacking against it.

as always, thanks. I was beginning to think I was chasing my tail.

Smitty
Click to expand...

That sounds like you are describing the pulley adapter, while there check the rubber in the balancer behind the pulley, I don't know the miles on yours but if rubber on one is bad, then rubber on other is suspect, some have suggested that 100K is a good time to replace them, I start keeping an eye on them then, change oil, and inspect pulley & balancer those are 2 separate items both on end of crank shaft.

Fluiddamper makes the replacement balancer, not the pulley that afik is GM or Doorman, (most part stores are Doorman in a store brand box) and I'm not sure GM isn't Doorman either.

Smitty take pictures when you replace it and post here
 
The likely culprit is the serp drive pulley on the crank.

The center portion is suspended on a bearing and the whole unit is on a bonded rubber center piece.

Once the rubber breaks loose then the pulley portion can wobble around on the bearing and the built in stops start hitting and this the noise.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top