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Tools required for glow plugs and Injectors?

great white

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Looking for tools required to change the injectors and the glow plugs.

As in, the size and type for the injectors and glow plugs.

IE: XX mm Deep socket/shallow, crowsfoot, etc.

Not concerned about tools to get access to them. IE; ratchets, socket sizes for turbo etc.

Just want to make sure I have the right tools already in the box for when I get around to doing the jobs.

Cheers
 
Glow plugs are deep 10mm socket, and you'll need to remove the right fender liner so 13mm and either a 1/4 or 7mm socket for some trim and either the proper tool or a pry bar for the plastic push pins.

Injectors, I used to use a socket, 30mm rings a bell? but finally bought the proper socket, much better and easier on my van.
 
30mm deep socket is the only somewhat specialty tool you'll need. the injector sockets you buy simply have wrench flats on them
 
So, 30mm deep and 10mm deep are the only "unusual" tools that I require?

Well, other than the usual common stuff.

I think I have a 30mm deep already, 10mm for sure. Must go check the roll around...
 
So, 30mm deep and 10mm deep are the only "unusual" tools that I require?

The original glow plugs are 7/16". I know the Bosch GPs are 10mm, others may be also. Unless you know what is in there, I would have a deep 7/16" socket at the ready. Snap On makes a special 7/16" socket with a tab to hold the GP. Makes it a bit easier but not a real necessity.
 
The original glow plugs are 7/16". I know the Bosch GPs are 10mm, others may be also. Unless you know what is in there, I would have a deep 7/16" socket at the ready. Snap On makes a special 7/16" socket with a tab to hold the GP. Makes it a bit easier but not a real necessity.

Good info.

Not sure if I have a 7/16 deep.....I'll pick one up just in case.
 
I think it is autozone that sells a 30mm deep socket with wrench flats on the yop and it is cheap there.
 
have to make sure when you put pressure on the 30mm socket that it doesnt crack or snap off the return line nipples. Thats why you use the "special" socket
 
For the pass side rear GP.

On my trucks I drill a hole in the inner fender in the appropriate place to allow a long (2' or so) 3/8ths extention. A step bit will make quick work of it. Use a plastic gromet/cap to snap in the hole when done.
 
For the pass side rear GP.

On my trucks I drill a hole in the inner fender in the appropriate place to allow a long (2' or so) 3/8ths extention. A step bit will make quick work of it. Use a plastic gromet/cap to snap in the hole when done.

Interesting.

I have cut access holes before for just such purposes.

I'll keep it in my back pocket....:thumbsup:
 
It will be easier for you to work if you just take off the fender. You can do both the injector and GP on all 4 with ease.
 
Also, a good brand of antiseize, I found ARP Moly lube is the best shit on the planet, doesn't dry out and heat doesn't faze it.
 
Also, a good brand of antiseize, I found ARP Moly lube is the best shit on the planet, doesn't dry out and heat doesn't faze it.

Interesting.

Believe it or not, we use "milk of magnesia" on turbine thermocouples on the hot section of jet engines. Worked great and stayed where it was put.

Recommended by the engine manufacturer actually (unflavored only please)!

Only thing that would stand up to the heat and still provide anti seize properties.
 
30mm = 1 3/16", which is what I used. The job is a snap. Not technically difficult at all. Getting to the 3rd GP on pass side (#5 i think) can be a beyotch due to down pipe, but you can wedge it to the side to reach the GP.
 
Interesting.

Believe it or not, we use "milk of magnesia" on turbine thermocouples on the hot section of jet engines. Worked great and stayed where it was put.

Recommended by the engine manufacturer actually (unflavored only please)!

Only thing that would stand up to the heat and still provide anti seize properties.

Interesting too, ):h
 
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