• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Today's dilemna........dead truck..........

Yachtcare

Yachtcare

Recruit
Messages
173
Reaction score
2
Truck died while idling outside AZ this morning while I was in getting crossover gaskets to fix a leak that developed there yesterday. No start, good crank. Had codes 13, 36, and 68. I've had the 36 and 68, with no overdrive for several weeks now, but truck was running well, with only an occassional fishbite. I use tcw3 spec 2 stroke, every fill up.

I pulled the shutoff solenoid, and tested it using the battery charger. Plunger went in and out like it is supposed too. It is a solenoid replaced about 2.5 years ago. Decided that probably isnt the issue, despite the code 13 that showed up for the first time today. But wondering if there could be an electrical fault. With ign power off I ohmed the wires for the solenoid, doesnt seem to be any shorting there. But could use more info on how that system operates, and at what voltages.

Got truck home on a hook and checked voltage to IP, good (12.78 V). IP is a green tagged 5068. Checked extension harness, as well as a spare, both are good. Pulled and checked all fuses for good measure, and all the connectors on the IP, except the big one at the back. Will work on that tomorrow, hopefully I wont have to pull the intake to do so.

Did lift pump test, have good air free fuel from the bleeder and T handle. NO fuel,when I cracked the nut at #1 cylinder.

Went to local Stanadyne dealer. They were kind enough to lend me a PMD, same model number as mine, but with a #5 resistor, opposed to the #9 in mine. Not sure if that would cause an issue. Tried both PMDs with both harnesses. Same symptoms persist. I did clear the codes, and none have recurred, but of course the truck hasnt run yet, either.


Batteries were getting a bit tired by sundown, so put the charger on for the night. Will get back to it in the AM. Although I cleaned all grounds in my annual July maint program, I'll go thru everything again.

Anything else I should be checking?
 
Clean the spades on the fsos fuse, if it loses connection you will get a code 13, happened to me.
 
I'll check it again, but I did pull and check ALL fuses, even those under the hood. Everything appeared shiney and tight.

I'll pull the glove box and check the PCM connections in the AM as well. Although if there was a fault there, I may not have voltage to the IP?

Last time this similar thing happened, it was the OS harness that had vibrated off due to missing snap. First thing I checked, but that isnt it either.

At this point, I'm leaning toward a fault in the circuit that supplies power to the shutoff sol. But not sure what it does.....voltage applied when ign on, or momentarily when ign is shutoff?
 
take the plunger out of the fsos it will rule it out. I'm leaning towards ign swtch might be making enough contact to show voltage but not pull a load
 
ak diesel driver said:
take the plunger out of the fsos it will rule it out. I'm leaning towards ign swtch might be making enough contact to show voltage but not pull a load
Click to expand...



I'll search for a tutorial on doing a plunger-ectomy. Hopefully it can be reversed if that isnt the problem.

About the ignition switch......earlier this year, after another failed starter, about fifth in a row going away like clockwork every six months, I replaced the ign switch. Something went awry when I did, and no power would be applied when switched to "start", only in "run". I rigged a momentary starter switch that has worked out well for me, turn key to run, wait for glow cycle, push button and start up. There is something fubar in the underhood fuse harnesss that burned up the fusible link at one time. I replaced with a large 40 amp fuse, as I couldnt find the spec for the fusible link to replace with.

Perhaps I need to revisit this setup?

I appreciate the clues..........
 
Certainly sounds electrical so I'd also check for voltages at the harness to PMD connector with the key in Run position. I know you have 12v TO the IP but I don't know what you did to "check" the FSD harness or the extention harness. I can't remember exactly but IIRC, there should be 12v at one pin (D?)and 5v at A and E but there are 6 pins on that sucker. Somone with a better memory/data base than I please chime in. I've attached as schematic scan from a 97 manual that may help. Page one anyway, the rest of the pages were for another issue I was chasing a while back.
View attachment DTC P1216.PDF
On Edit: I'll go see what they are on my truck and post back up.

In the meantime, I'd also make sure my fuel cap checked out correctly. Neighbor's truck (6.5) was doing the same thing as yours and after checking pressure, grounds, fuses, harness voltage, swapping in my spare PMDs (2 each) and cracking lines with no fuel, we loosened what turned out to be his "Gas" cap to add some fuel as he was showing near empty. Once the sucking sounds stopped and the tank expanded and settled back on supports with a big thump, it ran fine.
 
Check for shorts. I had the glow plug harness fall apart and short out at the controller. Killed the engine dead. I also had a pin backing out of the harness at the ECM.
 
Here's what I just got at the FSD/PMD harness on the IP connectors feeding the extended Harness.
Key on to Run:
Pin F (Blk) = 0v
Pin E (Red) = 5v
Pin D (Pnk) = 11v
Pin C (Blk) = 0v
Pin B (Red) = 0v
Pin A (LtG) = .03v
My IP is a rebuild and the FSD Harness wire at Pin A is actually white instead of light green. On the extended harness (PMD Cable.com), the wire colors are even more different. No never mind about colors though, only connectivity.
 
I did the locking gas cap on mine, drilled out the center vent, never been an issue.

What Pavel posted is pretty much what I got. I was concerned about seeing what was actually 0.09v at one of the pins on the PMD harness. I had 11.93, and 5.07 for the other reads. After bringing the batteries back up today I had 12.63, so I'm good there.

Had same symptoms this morning, so I tore into everything........Got the dremel out with the wire brush, made every connection bright and shiney. From the under hood fuses and relays, to the interior fuse box. Theres a fuse down in the bottom left corner inside labeled "INJ" it was a bit fuzzy, but not what I would consider corroded.........

Regardless, after this four hour exercise, cleaning things I never even seen in there before, she fired up and ran.....after running for several minutes I checked the codes(old ones were cleared when I pulled the PCM and checked all the pins there) and it reset a 13 again. Pulled the fsos again and tested...good. Put it back in, hasnt reset any codes in five starts and a quick back up and down the drive.


I pulled the upper intake to get at the coolant crossover to fix my leak there, so cleaned up the harnesses I hadnt seen in there before s well. Cleaned out the rad and cooling stack for good measure. I'll throw the grille back in tomorrow morning and go for a ride to see what codes, if any recur. The dtc 13 has me concerned.

Thanks for the help gents, will report back after I drive a bit tomorrow.
 
Does the fsos fuse fit tight? Mine wasn't so I bent the spades a little to get a good connection
 
Little corrosion goes a long way in low voltage, 12v, circuits.
12.63V is suspect for batteries. Perhaps old ones? 12.8v is fully charged. Meter tolerance and temperature can change this reading. I would load test them separately myself, but we have lots of heat related battery trouble out here.
 
Well, did a fair amount of driving yesterday.....

I know my tranny is shot, so the code 68 recurrance is no surprise. No other codes returned.......but the truck still runs like crap.

Fishbite at a hard accel, or pulling a steep grade(the toll bridges here, otherwise terrain is flat as board here). Idling in park or neutral, an occasional sharp stumble, almost like a backfire. Will do it underway as well, but not as pronounced. Warmer the engine gets(longer it's driven) this symptom seems to smooth out a bit, i.e. not as frequent. But then feels like it wants to stall when the accel is let off fast.

Called the Stanadyne shop to see when I can get the truck on their scanner to see what gives.

Could the tranny have a momentary slip (or grab) so severe as to cause a stumble like this without coding?

I'll go and give the fsos fuse, and perhaps a few others the treatment described by NVW, cant hurt.

The batteries are a matched set, replaced two years ago, almost to the day. I generally get 2.5 to three years out of them around here.
I also have a pair of 8D AGM's in the backseat,that are isolated from the charging system until ignition voltage is applied. So thoeretically they are in series with the starting circuit when engaged. Not running heavy electronics in the truck, they are there for the slide in camper occasional use.
 
Don't know if this was mentioned but a clear hose on the IP return fuel fitting will tell you if you have air in the fuel delivery.
 
Well, dead on side of road waiting for the hook again.

Died once, same symptoms as before. no fuel to injectors. Got fuel going there again, started up got three more blocks. Dead and no go from here.

Codes 13, again.......and 81,82,83 all transmission related......Would those cause computer to shut truck down?
 
That sucks, did you try putting a slight bend in the fuse spades? Mine won't make a connection if they are straight. There is a right way for the bends, you have to look in the fuse socket for the pin orientation.
 
Wierd all those tranny codes are popping up. Got to be some type of electrical malfunction? But definately counds fuel related. Has PMD written all over it, but if you have tried two knowing good ones than that would debunk that. Strange.
 
Truck's at home again.....other half got fed up and bought a Hyundai:WTF:

Fuel literally gushes out of the bleeder with the lift pump running, so thinking I can rule out filters (Racor is about 6 months with a 20 micron primary before the lift) filter manager is about 7 months. Will probably throw a new one in asap for good measure.

Still dont know why a 13 comes back. Damn fsos seems to work fine when voltage is applied.

Since the tranny is fubar, and these electrical issues wont leave me alone, I'm starting to think full manual rebuild on the 4L80E, and a DB2 where the DS4 is.......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top