Timing off set to injector timing.

[MrMarty51]

First of all, here is the fuel pressure gauge. Both videos at engine idle.
First video is pre FFM.

Second is post FFM.

 

[MrMarty51]

 

[MrMarty51]

 

[MrMarty51]

New numbers after relearn.
Guess I’ll back it down just a little.
If about -1.90 is the sweet number then I’ll shoot for that or slightly lower.

 

[dbrannon79]

I would think the offset is a little high, mine being a obd1 won't go over -1.99 before setting a code. I have it set iirc at -0.7 and it seems happy.

your vid post FFM and the pressure jumping around as well as at 1000 rpm me thinks the filter is causing a restriction? does it jump any pre FFM under the same conditions?

 

[Big T]

New numbers after relearn.
Guess I’ll back it down just a little.
If about -1.90 is the sweet number then I’ll shoot for that or slightly lower.
View attachment 91110

Your actual timing of 3.8 is getting you default TDCO of -2.46. You won’t get a TDCO less than -2.46 until you get actual timing at 3.5 or less.

Need to push IP all the way towards passenger side and start moving it from there to driver’s side until you get actual timing less than 3.5 degrees. Then set TDCO. Continue moving slightly to driver’s side until you have desired TDCO.

 

[MrMarty51]

I would think the offset is a little high, mine being a obd1 won't go over -1.99 before setting a code. I have it set iirc at -0.7 and it seems happy.

your vid post FFM and the pressure jumping around as well as at 1000 rpm me thinks the filter is causing a restriction? does it jump any pre FFM under the same conditions?

No. Rock steady.
Oriellys has Wix filters.
I stopped there last Sunday and had called ahead for a fuel filter for the truck.
I got there and he hands me some off breed fuel filter, billed out already so I took it.
Removed it from the box this morning.
WHAT A POS.
Tomorrow I’ll get a NAPA GOLD and this thing is going back.
Even the hold down band threads have pieces of finely shaved plastic hanging from them.
Edited to say, they didnt have a wix for the truck in stock, would come out of Billings on last Tuesday. Nope, not doing that.

 

[MrMarty51]

Okay.
Getting to the IP hold down nuts was a fiasco.
The engine was running sweet and smooth.
The biggest hurdle was the harness for the CPS.
I unplugged that sensor then tried rerouting the harness.
Too short to go through any other channels.
Clipped the wires and soldered in longer pieces of wire so that the harness could go up over behind the AC compressor. Splices staggered, soldered and heat shrink.
Got it put back together.
Loosened the nutz, rotated the IP passenger sidewards.
Fired it back up, warmed it real good, then run it through the relearn process.
Engine fired right up.
Timing offset was then at .83 or some such in the 80s.
Reset the IP towards the DS, not drinkers side , and did the relearn process, then at -2.11. Moved it about 1/2 the distance and relearn, I’m happy with these numbers.


The thing I am not happy with is this.

That all started after I extended the CPS harness but I dont remember if I moved the IP then it started the rough running.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have also cleared out the DT codes to no avail.
I’m wondering if a wire at the base of the CPS might have broke while I was trying to reroute them.
One thing I will say.
If anyone purchases the longer wire harness and expects it to go over the top of the intake manifold,
Before installing the extended harness, lengthen the wires about six inches and the CPS wires about two foot.
I rerouted the new harness to under the intake manifold and the baro sensor wires is snug to get plugged into the sensor.
I’m going to unbolt the main harness from the back of the left cylinder head and see if I can gain some footage.

 

[MrMarty51]

Okay.
Getting to the IP hold down nuts was a fiasco.
The engine was running sweet and smooth.
The biggest hurdle was the harness for the CPS.
I unplugged that sensor then tried rerouting the harness.
Too short to go through any other channels.
Clipped the wires and soldered in longer pieces of wire so that the harness could go up over behind the AC compressor. Splices staggered, soldered and heat shrink.
Got it put back together.
Loosened the nutz, rotated the IP passenger sidewards.
Fired it back up, warmed it real good, then run it through the relearn process.
Engine fired right up.
Timing offset was then at .83 or some such in the 80s.
Reset the IP towards the DS, not drinkers side , and did the relearn process, then at -2.11. Moved it about 1/2 the distance and relearn, I’m happy with these numbers.
View attachment 91134

The thing I am not happy with is this.

That all started after I extended the CPS harness but I dont remember if I moved the IP then it started the rough running.

I also have searched and scrounged and I can find no disconnected terminal plugs.
Also, disconnected the temp sensor and plugged in the temperature fooler.
It shows 180f. And didnt change the way the engine is running.

 

[jrsavoie]

No. Rock steady.
Oriellys has Wix filters.
I stopped there last Sunday and had called ahead for a fuel filter for the trudo you habe a Baldwin dealer close bt?ck.
I got there and he hands me some off breed fuel filter, billed out already so I took it.
Removed it from the box this morning.
WHAT A POS.
Tomorrow I’ll get a NAPA GOLD and this thing is going back.
Even the hold down band threads have pieces of finely shaved plastic hanging from them.
Edited to say, they didnt have a wix for the truck in stock, would come out of Billings on last Tuesday. Nope, not doing that.

Do you have a Baldwin filter dealer nearby?

They've always been.my first choice in filters until FS bought the warehouse and closed it down

 

[dbrannon79]

so long as you connected the same wires to the wire on the connector that shouldn't make a difference on how it runs. are there any codes now with it running rough? might try to get it back to the -0.88 that is a good medium setting. from reading on the innerwebs folks are saying anything over -1.94 is too much.

 

[MrMarty51]

so long as you connected the same wires to the wire on the connector that shouldn't make a difference on how it runs. are there any codes now with it running rough? might try to get it back to the -0.88 that is a good medium setting. from reading on the innerwebs folks are saying anything over -1.94 is too much.

Yes, still on the -0.88.
Even though it is running like it is, I got the offset where it should be so as I said I would, changed out the ECM to the tuned unit.
Put the new ECM through the suggested paces but the WTS lamp did not want to co-operate.
Turned the key on and got the short WTS lamp. Turned off the key, waited for the over 30 seconds, key back on, still short WTS lamp. Did not get the normal WTS lamp as the instructions stated, after five key off and wait for over one minute on the last three tries.
Went ahead and cranked the engine to life. It fired up immediately.
Let it warm up just a little then shut it down.
Key back to run position and now get the normal WTS lamp.
Didnt restart, called it a day.
I guess my next diagnostic procedure will be to start and warm the engine, run it through the timing relearn then see if any codes is set after restarting it after the relearn process.
If no codes, instructions says that if there is a misfire it could possibly be the pump driver resistor so I have a couple of spares, I’ll poke one of those into the module and see what that does.
If the weird running conditions persist then switch pump driver modules and see how that runs.
If it still persists to run like it does after that then switch back to the Stanadyne module and the original #5 resistor.
Then unplug the optic sensor and see if the engine will start. If it refuses to start then Replace the CPS. If it does start then plug back in the CPS, unplug the optic sensor and see how, or if it then runs.
I guess other than that, I might have to stick on that spare rebuilt injection pump.
I am totally at a loss with this.
And it was running so good before I changed the timing.
I just can help but think that something came loose when I was moving wire harnesses and hoses to get to the IP hold down nuts.
Thats all.

 

[ak diesel driver]

That short WTS light is normal if the batteries have been disconnected. Goes back to normal after a bit of running.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have two pump drivers with extension harnesses up to the IP.
Switched drivers, truck runs perfectly fine.
Scrounged through the draw where I keep the resistors. All I have on hand is two number nine units.
Pulled the resistor from the Stanadyne driver, shoved in a 9, hooked the cable, fired it up, truck runs perfect on both drivers now.
I guess if the enjun ever starts acting wonky like that, lets try a new resistor.
HA ! ! ! !

 

[dbrannon79]

if you ever run across a pmd where when the resistor is installed and the connector won't fully seat. move the resistor to the harness where it plugs into the truck harness near the IP. That's what I did so I wouldn't need to worry about it when swapping out PMD's

Glad to hear you got the rough running figured out.

 

[MrMarty51]

if you ever run across a pmd where when the resistor is installed and the connector won't fully seat. move the resistor to the harness where it plugs into the truck harness near the IP. That's what I did so I wouldn't need to worry about it when swapping out PMD's

Glad to hear you got the rough running figured out.

I have tried to do dat and the resistor doesnt seem to wanna fit into the terminal plug. Tried it on the todays episode too.
It looks like there would have to be some shaving, or philing done on the resistor to get it to fit.

 

[MrMarty51]

Checked fluid levels, aired the tires, loaded up some items to go back to the pharts house.
Returned the items that needed returd and picked up a NAPA Gold fuel filter and a bag of flooring dry. Took that off brand philter back to Oriellys then back home.
Rechecked transmission fluid level, touching tip of the DS so added a pint.
Called it a day. Left the truck in the garage with the hood open and tomorrow after working, install that new phuel philter and see if that forward fuel pressure reading will settle down.
I was in to working at 4:00 am so sidewalks could get broomed off and right now I’m about to fall over with drowsy.

 

[dbrannon79]

I have tried to do dat and the resistor doesnt seem to wanna fit into the terminal plug. Tried it on the todays episode too.
It looks like there would have to be some shaving, or philing done on the resistor to get it to fit.

Now that I think about it, I did have to trim my resistor, not for the extension, but when I replaced my PMD. the newer one had a different shape to it, also had to trim the one if the pointy things on the connector too. iirc there is a TSB somewhere that shows this modification to the connector where GM changed it's shape. Later when I moved the resistor to the engine side of the extension I didn't have any issues slipping it in.

Your extension is most likely already shaped for the newer type. my extension is also from China too so that might also explain why it went in LOL