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Timing off set to injector timing.

MrMarty51

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Miles City, Montana
If the injector timing is suppose to be about 30*, how does a person acquire that without changing the timing off set ?
I dont remember what actual injector timing was previous to removing the IP from the old engine.
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Have you ran the offset learn now that the new engine is installed? the general rule of thumb is to do the time set first and see where the actual injection timing is at. adjust (with engine off) till you get as close to 3.5 as possible, then run the learn function. if your already done the learn and it settled at -1.41 then your golden if that is were you want the off set to be. The PCM adjusts the actual timing with the stepper motor on the optic sensor. in essence that is your auto timing advance under the various loads. all PCM controlled.
 
On OBD2 you don't need to do the 3.5. You can go straight to the TDCO learn and then adjust the pump if you need to. Also you can get a range of readings from each pump adjustment so just because you don't see the number you are looking for doesn't mean the IP needs to be moved. There's like 4-5 numbers that can be had. Just keep doing the relearn until you see the range of numbers available
 
Okay, as pointed out.
I did not do a relearn. Just fired up the engine.
The new ECM will automatically do a realearn without Me doing a thing.
I just do not want there to be a problem between the timing of the pump and the ECM that I have read about.
@Big T suggested that I turn the pump more to the passenger side. I now have it setting slightly canted to the drivers side, thinking a little advanced is where I like to run them.
That -1.44 seemed to be pretty good, although a little more pre ignition knock.

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I will finish up what I started with the heat shield, get the cooling tubes made up and installed, and the gauges for drive pressure, then, decide if I want to turn the pump then do the relearn, or just install the new ECM with the Daily Driver tune and let it run through the learn process with the pump where it sets, or, after it is turned back a little.
I failed to check the pump timing location before I pulled it from the engine.
 
it can, but without the scanner to set the 3.5 degrees actual injection timing it makes it hard to get it right. if you have something that will read the actual timing, I would say try the method without the scanner first and see where it lands. iirc it's a sequence that involves the key on/off while pressing the go pedal. I think that's why they call it a KOKO procedure. it can be done on all OBD2 96+ models.
 
Here is some reading on the KOKO procedure. hope this will help.

 
I have done the KOKO throttle pedal position procedure before.
Scared the crap out of me first time the engine stalled while running the procedure.
I did get the QStar temperature fooler so the engine, hopefully, wont have to be to the full 175* or what the command temps is suppose to be.
I have the Autel MaxiAP200 reader, that covers all the live DATA and clears codes, etc, and a bunch of other operations that I’m not comfortable messing with. I think. 😹
After I get the drive pressure gauges installed I will get back in and do the relearn with the old ECM to verify where it now is set at.
Maybe first I should rotate the IP CCW facing front of engine, as suggested by Big T.
 
I've never used a temp fooler. Not sure if that would help or hurt anything when setting the timing as to the engine thinking it's getting a "hot" burn in the cylinders when it might not be. I'm sure others would know more on that than I.

do you have access to a tech2, not sure how close you and Big T are, I think he might have one.
 
I've never used a temp fooler. Not sure if that would help or hurt anything when setting the timing as to the engine thinking it's getting a "hot" burn in the cylinders when it might not be. I'm sure others would know more on that than I.

do you have access to a tech2, not sure how close you and Big T are, I think he might have one.
Maybe, I might. I am sure the state shop would still have theirs.
They tend to not cast out too much of that types of items. If the did get rid of it, most likely went to equipment auction over in Helena, pronounced Helen with an a at the end. 😹😹😹
Big T should sign up for the state equipment auction notices.
Might find some good buys in there.
But yeah, if the equipment shop here has not sent that in I am sure that the shop super would not have a problem loaning that to me for a day or several.
Long as I’m diving into this card so deep, should just buy an original GM unit.
Maybe I’ll see what adapters is required for the OBD2 6.5 and record those numbers. Make a pass at pricing out the GM unit and the adapters.
 
it can, but without the scanner to set the 3.5 degrees actual injection timing it makes it hard to get it right. if you have something that will read the actual timing, I would say try the method without the scanner first and see where it lands. iirc it's a sequence that involves the key on/off while pressing the go pedal. I think that's why they call it a KOKO procedure. it can be done on all OBD2 96+ models.
Approximately 3.5 degrees actual, or less. More than 3.5 and it won’t let you do anything.
 
You won't be able to tell the difference except in noise.
I did notice that there was quite a bit more pre ignition clatter after I set the timing to the -1.45 than what it was when it was in the -.3? Something when I first got it.
The truck is back together. Turbo and Fender well installed.
Short GP cycles so cleared codes then GP cycled like it should. Fired right up.
It was getting down to about five and I been at it since about five am so called it a day.
Church in the morning, get home from there then I’ll warm it real good then run through the timing offset relearn.
Then I’ll install the new PTC module.
Let it learn on the proper timing.
 
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