Timing Chain???

[turbovanman]

Go Fluiddamper, you wont' regret it.

As for timing it, yes, you should check it, any time a chain is replaced, it can/will affect the set timing by a few degree's. You need a scanner, some have other method's.

 

[buddy]

Setting the timing is simple. You just need the correct scanner or software program like GMTDScanTech and USB to ALDL cable, which is about $200, unless someone lives near you.

I would change out the chain. my 94 has about 100K on it, and I can tell the chain has slop just by setting the timing on GMTDScanTech, its all over the place when setting it.

A fluidamp balancer is a nice upgrade worth doing even if yours is still serviceable the time and effort is worth it. Although its pricey.

If youre performing the high flow pump upgrade, I would avoid adding the dual thermostats.

 

[turbovanman]

A fluidamp balancer is a nice upgrade worth doing even if yours is still serviceable the time and effort is worth it. Although its pricey.

So is an engine, :thumbsup:

If youre performing the high flow pump upgrade, I would avoid adding the dual thermostats.

Why? Stock come with a high flow pump and dual thermostats so why not upgrade an older setup that doesn't have it?

 

[buddy]

The dual thermostat housing adds cost to the kit and although yes it works fine, there is some evidence that it does not balance the flow correctly. Some people prefer to keep the single.

 

[Dave01]

What is the advantage of a Fluidampr?

 

[Matt Bachand]

What is the advantage of a Fluidampr?

They say it counters the vibrations alot better as its filled with a viscous FLUID instead of rubber. Also a plus is there is nothing to dry-rot, rubber fail, or separate, and rubber can lose its properties at severe cold, where as the fluidampr is less likely to do so.

They basically last almost forever... Where as standard is rated for 100k miles or so, But I bought a bad crank pulley where the rubber didn't attach properly (china stamped JUNK, Now as a jest to the other thread, perhaps they didn't tell the china company they wanted the rubber to mate with the inner part of the pulley )... Had that been a faulty HB, who knows if my engine would still be purring today. Still with ZERO blowby BTW. Checked it at 96td's house after the hour drive to get there... not even a hint.

 

[turbovanman]

What is the advantage of a Fluidampr?

It actually does its job, dampens vibrations. ):h

I noticed right away how much smoother the van was, I would honestly say it took out 60% of the vibration, the engine's sound also changed-the knock was reduced-not such a hard sounding noise, pretty neat, :thumbsup:

Edit, I had redone my exhaust and it buzzed alot, putting the FD on stopped that. My mounts are ok but original.

 

[Dave01]

Hmm .... I've got 198,000 miles on it, and just bought a new HB and crank pulley but haven't put them on yet. I wonder if I should re-think, I'm sure I can sell the HB to someone if I went with the Fluidampr.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Hmm .... I've got 198,000 miles on it, and just bought a new HB and crank pulley but haven't put them on yet. I wonder if I should re-think, I'm sure I can sell the HB to someone if I went with the Fluidampr.

Did you check the price yet? Downside to Fluidampr is the price. Very expensive. IMO there is nothing wrong with stock unit. May not even feel the difference between a good stock and fluidampr, but if it truly helps to counter the sharp diesel vibrations, then for longevity reasons can't beat it.

 

[Big T]

The dual thermostat housing adds cost to the kit and although yes it works fine, there is some evidence that it does not balance the flow correctly. Some people prefer to keep the single.

I talked with Bill on this very issue when I ordered the cooling upgrade. Told him I had converted to the dual T-stats in '98. If it made a difference, I could buy a single T-stat housing. He said that they have an orifice they stick in the pump that corrects the issue and the difference is insignificant. He recommended sticking with the dual T-stats.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Can you post a pic of the orifice it would be interesting to see it.

 

[Big T]

Will do when I get it.

 

[buddy]

I talked with Bill on this very issue when I ordered the cooling upgrade. Told him I had converted to the dual T-stats in '98. If it made a difference, I could buy a single T-stat housing. He said that they have an orifice they stick in the pump that corrects the issue and the difference is insignificant. He recommended sticking with the dual T-stats.

Yeah, might as well stick with dual, but not totally necessary if people want to save some bucks on new dual, radiator hose and extra stat. Besides messing with the IP is real easy with the radiator hose and extra stat not in the way

 

[midniteplowboyy]

With 4.10's, it might be getting close to time for a new balancer, maybe not its hard to say.

I'd rather have a functioning old GM balancer than a new Doorstop, I mean Dorman. If you travel long distances from home, I'd run the old balancer until you have the coin for a Fluidampr. If you just drive around town, run the old stock one until it fails(if it fails) and slap a Dorman on it.

Sorry, I've had bad luck with Dorman, but you have to run whats available(chinese junk) and I run them also. I use them but dont recommend them to friends.

Get the Fluidampr if you can afford it, you'll like it.