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Tightening Rear Brake Drum Retaining Nut

No, unfortunately. But, if you look at where the axle cap (about 3/8" thick) is bolted onto... That cylinder that sticks out of the wheel is part of the drum.

EDIT: Originally typed "hub" above - changed it to "drum".

Oh, to maybe better explain (or maybe not!)... The drum looks like a men's top hat, except the top is hollow.
 
DennisG01 said:
No, unfortunately. But, if you look at where the axle cap (about 3/8" thick) is bolted onto... That cylinder that sticks out of the wheel is part of the drum.

EDIT: Originally typed "hub" above - changed it to "drum".

Oh, to maybe better explain (or maybe not!)... The drum looks like a men's top hat, except the top is hollow.
Click to expand...

Actualy the studs do press into the hub more so than the drum. The studs do fit tightly on the drum, but not really a press fit. They are tight enough though that I have had to beat all or most of them out of the hub before the drum would come off. The drum also fits tightly to the hub on the inside dia of the lug circle (hub centric).
3500GMC said:
Here is what yours should look like (minus the wobble) when the drums are off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdfLye8NIn0

This is my '93 with 13x3.5 "JB8" brakes.

I'm just trying to save you some work.
Click to expand...
It would save work for sure. I'll check your link next.
 
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Aha! The light bulb went on! I get it, now. In the first picture I posted, the flange (about 7" diameter, give or take) that the studs are pressed into is SEPARATE from the actual drum. So, the drum and the hub are supposed to come apart from each other. I mistakenly thought that that 7" flange (hub) was actually part of the drum and that the drum was just extra thick in that area. That would then make sense - my drum would, indeed, look just like the one you pictured, 3500GMC.

Question, though... If it takes all that work (BFH) to separate the hub and the drum, isn't it just easier to take them off as one piece? Or am I still missing something... maybe my light bulb is a CFL and it isn't fully warmed up, yet?
 
Question, though... If it takes all that work (BFH) to separate the hub and the drum, isn't it just easier to take them off as one piece? Or am I still missing something... maybe my light bulb is a CFL and it isn't fully warmed up, yet?
Click to expand...

Ha ha.. CFL... getting warmer. Some PB blaster penatrating fluid around the studs and the center. Then work your way around the edge of the drum in a criss cross pattern with a small hand sledge, maybe a 2 pounder. You'll never do it the hard way again. When/IF you need to buy drums, you will NEED to do this....

Wire wheel the heck out your parts when you get them seperated.
 
Thanks! I did have a heck of a time getting the wheel off the drum. I kicked the tire tell my foot was sore. Then I tried letting the tire back onto the ground (w/o the nuts on) to see if it would crack. Finally, I used the back side of my ax (I was almost ready to hit it with the blade of the ax!!!!) and hit the tire in various places and it came free. Before I had put the wheel back on, I applied antiseize to the mating surface between the drum and wheel. Would that be OK for the hub to drum contact area, too?

Based on my first picture (you can maybe see what looks like very fine, hairline cracks in the pad contact area), and the relative thickness (.35") of the pad contact area, are these worth saving? I can not feel those "cracks" with my finger nail.
 
DennisG01 said:
.... I applied antiseize to the mating surface between the drum and wheel. Would that be OK for the hub to drum contact area, too?

,,,, very fine, hairline cracks in the pad contact area,,,,worth saving?
Click to expand...

A light smear will do the trick.

As for the cracks, personally, I'd swap 'em out. Skip the turning. AZ has them for $67 each. China of course. Duralast #80000
 
I think they are original. Part number 15622390 is stamped on them.

That pricing at AZ is pretty cheap! I'll check the local NAPA on Monday to compare (hopefully they have something made in the USA). I can't ways do it, but I try to buy USA when I can.

However, at that point I think I'm starting to approach the ballpark of getting a salvage axle with discs on it. I've only looked quickly, but I think I've found them in the $400-$500 range. Well, maybe not entirely, but close enough that it has me thinking.

Maybe I'll take the hub to a place that can turn it and see what they think?
 
DennisG01 said:
I think they are original. Part number 15622390 is stamped on them.

That pricing at AZ is pretty cheap! I'll check the local NAPA on Monday to compare (hopefully they have something made in the USA). I can't ways do it, but I try to buy USA when I can.

However, at that point I think I'm starting to approach the ballpark of getting a salvage axle with discs on it. I've only looked quickly, but I think I've found them in the $400-$500 range. Well, maybe not entirely, but close enough that it has me thinking.

Maybe I'll take the hub to a place that can turn it and see what they think?
Click to expand...

It's your call. The cracks will hide once machined, but still could be there. It's hard to find ANY aftermarket brake part made in the U.S.... Brake springs maybe...

There is a MAX dia. spec on these drums. The place doing the work should know this. Again.. SHOULD...:rolleyes5:

By HUB you mean DRUM right?
 
Guess I missed the cracks in the drum part. I thought you meant in the friction material of the shoe. If they're cracked at all, get rid of 'em. Don't know about the 4 wheel disc setup but besides the proportioning valve to be concerned with there are wheel speed/ABS sensors and most of all the PCM (BCM?) may not program to that setup.
 
Yes, sorry, I meant get the "drum" turned. I'll let the disc-axle-swap-thing settle for now. Although, I would like to know (if for nothing else than knowledge) why that wouldn't work. Now, I can guarantee that I know less about this than you guys, but why would the tranny computer care? I already have 4-wheel discs, if that matters.

I looked through the other pictures I took and there is a stamping on the drum indicating a max diameter of 13.09". That's easy enough to measure - I have a vernier caliper that extends pretty far.

I guess it's not fair to ask you guys to give a recommendation on the drums when you can't physically see it in person. I'll see what the shop says about turning it. If they're at all worried about it, I'll definitely get new ones. For $150 - $200, it's probably not worth tempting fate.

Thanks, everyone, for helping out with this!
 
What is the quality of the Auto Zone drum? I would compair the weight of it. My gut tells me you will have more problems in future if you use them. I would get some good used ones first unless someone can report back that they are happy with the AZ part.
Seems like everytime I use Chinese drums/rotors they are softer metal and warp.
 
Good point about weight. It doesn't address the quality of the metal, but at least it's something. If there's an obvious weight difference I will definitely pass on Them.
 
I have the AZ #80000 drums, but have not bolted them on. They are just as heavy as the ones I currently run, which I couldn't tell you if they are OEM. The old ones have been turned about .020" May return the AZ units once I get my hub/brake issue figured out.

The AZ drums are balanced and they look like any other aftermarket drum. Surely better than cracked drums.
 
Thank you. My goal tomorrow is to take a run to NAPA... see what they have, just for good measure... then see about getting my current ones turned -- maybe the cracks are not as bad as I'm thinking??? Then make a decision.

Is some cracking to be expected? I guess what I'm getting at is... is it normal to have some small cracks? Or, should there be absolutely none?

You guys have been more than helpful and have provided me with, certainly, more knowledge than I started with!
 
Thought more and more about it - decided you guys are right and decided against getting them turned. I don't know where I got that original $400-$500 for a salvage axle from... turns out they are in the $700 - $900 range. Plus the proportioning valve, plus the new brake line to the other side. So I ordered new drums, spring kit, shoes and wheel cylinders from NAPA. Their drums are $82 after the AAA discount. They said theirs are made in China, too - but, they use steel shipped from the US directly to the factory and there are strict quality controls. I liked the idea about using US steel, as opposed to "Heinz 57" variety of steel that could be used with others.

I took the drums off the hub today - used a 8"x5/8"" piece of round stock to pound them off, with the help of the 3lb sledge. I lined the stock up on the back edge of the drum and just kept rotating the drum as I hit it. Ummm... It went much easier after I remembered to back off the brake adjuster...

"33 clicks" - is that what you guys really do? Or do you adjust the brakes by feel - tighten them, then release when they just stop dragging?
 
DennisG01 said:
Or do you adjust the brakes by feel - tighten them, then release when they just stop dragging?
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When I can just get the drum on and there is a very slight drag as I rotate the drum by hand then it's good to bolt the wheel on. Do the other side and you are good to go.
 
What Mike said. ^^

Typically they will drag less being rotated in reverse. This is due to the wedging effect of foundation (drum) brakes rotating forward. Get them to just barely drag 'forward' with the wheel off 'by hand'. The self-adjust mechanism will do the rest.

Mare sure the self adjust parts aren't all gummed/rusted up.

I don't know this for sure, but I bet every McParts store in the U.S. gets their drums and rotors from overseas in the same white box and slaps THEIR label on it.
 
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