Tight/Taunt GP Wires

[dbrannon79]

Also check other grounds. that ground wire kinda looks like it's had a heavy draw on it as if the body grounds or battery connections might also have some issues.

 

[drag sgt]

None of the intake holes are wet (antifreeze). pull the bolt and run a tap thru the threads, wire wheel the threads on the stud along with the nut's and the terminal end itself

Went ahead and did this tonight, including cutting off the old ring terminal and putting a new one on, and putting heat shrink tube on so none of the wire is exposed anymore. Ran a test and the relay voltage was still in the 10.7-11 range.

A couple ring terminals on G104 were beat up so I plan on replacing them as well, but I think it's a different circuit.

Also check other grounds. that ground wire kinda looks like it's had a heavy draw on it as if the body grounds or battery connections might also have some issues.

Battery grounds are good, but I'll see I can find in the manual which major ground points I should also check and clean. It's originally a SW vehicle so it's pretty clean, rust-wise.

 

[drag sgt]

I read an old post last night that talked about probing each battery during WTS to get an idea of their voltages, then doing the same with each side of the relay to the battery negative, to see if a) the voltages are constant, and b) if there's a loss of current in the relay from the 12v constant to the WTS side, with the implication being that all numbers are in the same range during WTS, except for the GP side of the relay, then the internal bar is going bad and to replace the relay.

I think I'll also try that tonight if I have time.

 

[drag sgt]

Okay so I replaced a couple more ground terminals from last night and ran my electrical tests.

Both batteries were at 12.26--a little low but I've been cycling the WTS a lot these last couple days so I'm not concerned.

On WTS, each battery was at 11.56.

The 12v constant side of the relay was at 12.26, in line with the batteries.

When cycling, the 12v constant dropped to 10.7, and the other stud tested at 10.5. So all in all, no major difference between the studs, but I wonder if the 11.56 battery to 10.7 on the stud is what's causing the problem. I'm not sure how to proceed, though.

I also ground-tested 6 of the glow plugs, and all showed 12.26.

I'll try measuring the 12v constant during WTS again, but I would think it should be in line with what I read on the battery terminals during cycling.

 

[dbrannon79]

what size cable is feeding your glow plug solenoid and where is it feeding from before the battery? thinking that if it comes from a distro block or under hood fuse block unless it feeds direct to the battery. check it's connections on that end. if it still had the factory sealed GM side post terminals, those things get mighty corroded under that thick plastic covering and in the crimped connector. that could be an issue.

 

[MrMarty51]

What DBrannon said about those side terminal cables.
When those were on My truck, every year, peel that plastic back, douse the cable ends in a container of baking soda and water mix and let them soak for an hour or two then thoroughly blow dry them terminals then reinstall and run them for another year or so.

 

[drag sgt]

Side posts inspected okay, but I pulled up the battery ground diagram to make sure everything was clean/tight.

Well this isn't exactly where this is supposed to go, but I can't get the bolt out conveniently...

Where are you, G100 cable?

No where... you're just not there... F me and F the previous owner who did this, I guess.

The other wires are fine, the super bright work light just makes the other wire look green in the pic. I looked around inside with a mirror and it looks good there, also.

So I'm going to run to the store and grab a generic ground cable and marine post top to add back onto the battery where it should be...

 

[Will L.]

@drag sgt
NOPE.
No generic unless you are sure it is the same amperage rating or higher. The starter for this draws a lot more power than the gas engine does.

Imo - why waste money now then spend more later to upgrade to something worth having. If you are just getting it ready to sell- do what your conscience says. If you are keeping it, buy the heavy duty marine rated one like mentioned before.

Many times I have seen/ had this conversation with people and within a year comes the broken washer machine comment: I wish I woulda, I wish I woulda

 

[jrsavoie]

@drag sgt
NOPE.
No generic unless you are sure it is the same amperage rating or higher. The starter for this draws a lot more power than the gas engine does.

Imo - why waste money now then spend more later to upgrade to something worth having. If you are just getting it ready to sell- do what your conscience says. If you are keeping it, buy the heavy duty marine rated one like mentioned before.

Many times I have seen/ had this conversation with people and within a year comes the broken washer machine comment: I wish I woulda, I wish I woulda

Some of the generic battery cables around here are definitely usable. All the way up to 3/0. I'd say a generic 3/0 cable would be sufficient

 

[drag sgt]

@drag sgt

NOPE.
No generic unless you are sure it is the same amperage rating or higher. The starter for this draws a lot more power than the gas engine does.

Imo - why waste money now then spend more later to upgrade to something worth having. If you are just getting it ready to sell- do what your conscience says. If you are keeping it, buy the heavy duty marine rated one like mentioned before.

Many times I have seen/ had this conversation with people and within a year comes the broken washer machine comment: I wish I woulda, I wish I woulda

To clarify my intentions, tomorrow I'm going to NAPA to buy a couple of 2.5' sections of bulk 2/0 cable, ends, and some solder pellets so I can assemble a couple new cables. I already purchased a new GP controller to do testing with, so it'll be a cost wash after it's all said and done.

I'm not getting ready to sell or anything, just trying do some maintenance and put some things back together while chasing a lingering P0380 code.

 

[jrsavoie]

@drag sgt


To clarify my intentions, tomorrow I'm going to NAPA to buy a couple of 2.5' sections of bulk 2/0 cable, ends, and some solder pellets so I can assemble a couple new cables. I already purchased a new GP controller to do testing with, so it'll be a cost wash after it's all said and done.

I'm not getting ready to sell or anything, just trying do some maintenance and put some things back together while chasing a lingering P0380 code.

Get tinned cable if they have it

 

[MrMarty51]

I removed the side terminal cables from the truck.
Hauled those over to NAPA.
The counter person made up the new top post terminal cables while I stood by helping and getting in the way.
Was mighty nice not having to make multiple trips to the store in the cause that I didnt get enought supplies or one cable was too short or some such.
And, they used their torch and didnt charge me for that fuel.

 

[MrMarty51]

And, I had him add a couple extra inches to each arm of the cable system just to be sure that going to the top posts they would not be too short.
I think it was about $125.00 American to get the new top post positive system and both negative cables.

 

[dbrannon79]

back when I replaced my batteries, I didn't think about it, but now I wished I wouda gotten the top + side post batteries. mine are only side post units. Though the battery on the passenger side has those side post adapters that convert to a normal stud and nut with my cables having normal copper lugs on them for that side. Drivers side is still the factory side post cables. so far no issues with the connections but time will tell...

 

[Will L.]

Always eliminate side posts when you can afford to imo

 

[jrsavoie]

Always eliminate side posts when you can afford to imo

Can't say I have had much for bad issues with them
I did have a side post go bad, but the top post was good

 

[drag sgt]

A week out and everything is running good still, with no cluster lights. We're visiting family in much colder climate right now and there have been quick startups, regardless. I'm actually feeling inspired to upgrade the rest of the battery connections, and starter cable now. Seems to be a lot of back-and-forth discussion online about the alternator cable and the fusible link.

 

[dbrannon79]

The cable on the alternator was never enough to handle what the alternator pushes, coupled by the fusible link at the end. mine would get quite warm right after startup due to the alternator trying to push back the power the starter took out of the batteries for a moment. once it settled down (5 minutes or so) it would be fine. I ended up running another power cable off the main stud of the alternator direct to an aux bolt lug on the under hood fuse box and stuck a 80a fuse in the box for that aux connection. even though it's meant to allow a person to add power to something in the truck, I used it to receive! LOL. it works much better being that when I measured the amp draw on the main wires that go to powering that fuse box when everything is on in the cab it was drawing 40a. adding that extra input to the box though the aux side essentially split the amperage in half where 20a was coming from the battery side powering the box and 20a was being pushed in from the alternator. that took some of the load off the single wire that GM fed from the alternator to the battery and then to the fuse box.

I know it's not the best or ideal but it made a difference I was happy with.

 

[jrsavoie]

I've added OEM alternator wires from the alternator to the battery that doesn't have one going to it.
I think even the 2 wires are still undersized. But it's double what I started with

 

[dbrannon79]

yeah, the best option is to replace the existing with a new larger wire. on mine, I at the time didn't feel like cutting and re-crimping the battery terminals. if I had though it would have gotten top post connections. lessons learned and mistakes made LOL. once I get my "new to me" second truck here I will be doing it right if that hasn't been done already!