Veg_Out
Walking J Designs
DISCLAIMER: The above words are my opinion. They are not meant to sway anyones decisions one way or the other. What I like and what you like may be totally different and thats O.K.
LOL!
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DISCLAIMER: The above words are my opinion. They are not meant to sway anyones decisions one way or the other. What I like and what you like may be totally different and thats O.K.
for gm turbos exist fuel table which is little higher in beginning (couz of faster spool up it can take little bit more fuel at low rpm's but stock torque converter cant transfer that power anyway, so it is mainly for manual trans) but gm turbo with att tune beats stock programming 6-0
So when programing your tune, is there more fuel given at lower RPM's for the manual tranny trucks? Just curious to see what differs from a manual/auto trans tune (other than shift points/pressures of course). I have a 96 with a 5spd which I am very interested in trying your tune for. Thanks for the input and a new product :thumbsup:
But slim shady is running ATT in his truck so he has same fuel table as all others have.
I have fuel table what i can use in combination with manual trans and gm turbo, but i dont have access to truck like that here so i cant even say if there is any idea to do it.
With att that makes only more smoke and egt, with auto trans it feels little stupid.. engine takes rpm easier until converter stall speed is reached, but it doesn't have more power in driving range.
But if someone has manual and gm turbo, he can have that combination.
I am just going to put my faith in KUJO and team. They know the questions to ask to get the info they need.
I'm perhaps learning too much here about the different area's of adjustments, I have never even driven a reflashed 6.5, not to mention program one, so I'll leave the guts up to KUJO.
I do know earlier TCC lockup would be desired. With my foot in it I can climb highway climbs doing at or slightly over 45, and it doesn't LOCK.
This problem causes it to take so much more engine work (High egt's, boost, etc) to reach OD speed. It feels like its beating the snot outta the 6.5. If I ease up the throttle a touch, I can make it lock. Then it really connects together and pulls strong and easy up the hill all locked up in 3rd. Problem is I lost my fat pig's momentum. Do that to about 2500 rpm, and OD will land a little under 2000 RPM. Sometimes this OD catch feels a little sluggish, especially if It lands around 1500rpm, but I always manually shift anyhow. I don't like to lug, ever. I'd rather spin at 2300 in 3rd than lug in OD.
I have 4.10's, but 235/85 16's, so that may bring my final ratio closer to that of a 3.73.
I really like doing 60mph 1900rpm in OD, and 65 at 2200 or so. Perfect. I dont' go faster.
Well, I'm sold! One problem. I have 160,000 on my injectors (if the dealer really did change them @ 50,000). Should I wait til I change the injectors in the Spring ( I already have them in a box downstairs)or is it ok to upgrade now,as long as I don't stay at full throttle forever with a big tow? I won't be doing any distance, heavy towing unil July.
IMO I think you should change the injectors first. You are already "on barrowed time" so to speak with them and you have brand new injectors sitting in the basement. Not much sense in risking major problems when you have the parts you need to avoid it.
Again, just my two cents.
Thanks guys. That's the way I felt and you let me know it's the right decision. Warm weather will be here soon.
Thanks guys. That's the way I felt and you let me know it's the right decision. Warm weather will be here soon.