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The Holset HE351VE VGT on my 6.2

cub124

Half Moon Detroit #1
Messages
195
Reaction score
1
Location
stormstown PA
To those of you who want a cheap and powerful turbo choice!

Engine
I started with a red block, put ten over fel-pro head gaskets on with ARP head studs and 1983 or newer heads. I used a 6.5 manifold and slotted it for the turbo.

Exhaust
I used a 90* 3/12 inch bend then immediately reduced it to 3 inch due to pipe clearance issues. This isn't really a big deal because the hole for the v clap from factory is 3 1/8", if I would have known this before I bought the 90 I woulda just bought a 3" ID/OD 90* after I fabbed it was painted and wrapped in heat tape.

Boost/vane controller
The controller is mechanical with a pneumatic waste gate actuator controlled off of manifold pressure and it is adjustable via boost valve. The turbo intake is 4 inch made from exhaust pipe and the boost side is 2 1/5" I used red RTV on the turbo exhaust flange.

Fuel
I "fed the beast" Put 3/8 rubber line fitting from the out side of the filter and on the In side of the pump but I couldn't put regular fittings on they had to be drilled out first! :hihi: on the filter side I drilled out the aluminum housing and carefully tapped it for NPT. Then the mechanical fuel pump was tossed for electric 6.2 fuel pump 10-14psi. I had to move the large filter for turbo clearance and fire issues from the firewall to the side of the fender. The electric pump was placed after this due to the warranty may be void without a filter but I may end up placing it before the filter (its easier to push than pull) As far as the high pressure pump the 6.2 one worked fine, as of right now its maxed out which is more fuel than needed. It will probably be turned down 1/8 of a turn off of maxed out. It could easily get the turbo past 20 psi if I wanted.

Pictures...

pressure pipe.jpegdown pipe.jpegvgt exhaust.jpegcontroller.jpegintake.jpegfuel pump and filter.jpegturbos.jpeg

PS I do have an idea on how to open the vgt on highway via air pump or electric actuator I'll be posting a diagram tomorrow of the pneumatic way.
 
iv got one of these sitting on the self maybe one day i will get it put on i have been hoping to come up with a way to controll the vgt based on the boost curve
 
yes i have its much better, on the flat once the turbo hits 5psi its gone and will shoot up to 20 or where ever you would have it set :D

as far as the heater hoses they were a bit close to the downpipe! ha
 
Got anymore pics of the down pipe?

Its the only thing I'm worried about with my turbo setup. I've been considering a 1.5 or 2" body lift to fit better but would rather not add extra height.
 
The down pipe shouldn't be too bad, just remove the inner fender and use 3 inch pipe with the gm-x it wont be too bad the heater core lines won't even need moved, I was running a gm-8 before.

downpipe1.jpegdownpipe2.jpeg

as far as the boost controller here is how to make the adjustable valve: http://www.okbuicks.com/boost control valve.pdf

Here is what I have besides the whole air pump, that is just an idea for now.

VGT controller.jpg
turbo controller2.jpegturbo controller 4.jpegcontroller.jpegturbo controller1.jpegturbo controller 3.jpeg

and more questions? I'd be glad to help, info is always great to have!
 
Im not sure what the diaphragm is off of as it came with the turbo, I PMed cody asking him what is was from but he must not have gotten on in awhile.

I am not running a body lift but 3 inch is still very tight, I worked at a shop with a pipe bender and got some pipe bent to fit through the tight spot. (between the frame and turbo manifold cross over)

BTW: the pictures must not be the right format, the VGT diagram will get larger if you click it
 
Yeah the VGT got bigger but I was more interested in the downpipe and frame. Just a question(Not second guessing, just don't know) could you use a turbomaster setup with that turbo or is there a specific reason you went with what you did ?
 
as in turbo master set up do you mean springs and a locking nuts to adjust tension?
It would probably work, I was using that set up on my gm-8 I just liked the idea of the pneumatic one and it was almost set up when I got it. VDB has his set up with just springs I'm not sure of his opinion on it but personally I think the spring system is more of a hassle
 
Could you post a better larger pic of the downpipe, particularly by the cab mount area where you went under. I am worried that when I put the 6.5 setup on mine I will have to run the pipe outside the frame. I will be using a GM4.
 
you won't have to that would look stupid also! if you have someone do that part for you, you won't have to deal with it! I had my boss do it for me the first time :hihi:

The tuning has been going slow, I turned the pump down 1/8 of a turn off bottom and turned the boost valve down a bunch but Im still maxing out around 20 but I'll get there I have a few hours before work.

here are the down pipe pictures sorry for some reason my phone pictures don't get any bigger
downpipe below 1.jpegdownpipe below.jpeg
 
Nope :) once it gets to the point where its horizontal to the frame there is a 360* swinger from napa that i bent and bolted in real tight. Between that and the turbo it holds well. Then of course the rest of the piping has hangers which turns to 4 inch after the t-case

oh btw good luck :D
 
just so everyone knows I'm not sure how necessary the "boost Valve" is I have mine backed all the way out right now and i can still make 21-22 psi WOT up a hill so it either needs a lighter spring or the fuel turned down more. I'll probably turn the fuel down a tad.
 
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