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The ATT is on! And I blew an injector on the way home? OR, My weekend with Leroy :)

Two things come to mind.

Easy one first.
Serp drive pulley on the balancer. I f the rubber breaks, then the drive pulley can hammer as it has a pilot bearing.

Remove serp belt and check pulley on crank.

The second item is a broken crank.

Generally a broken crank will show some loss of oil pressure, especially at idle.

Keep us in the loop

Missy
 
Well, Missy and all, it's the pulley! Ya'll were spot-on. I sent Leroy an E-mail, which here is most of. I am relieved...

Belt off, and I was able to turn it bolt to bolt. It’s detached from the rubber insert. I can certainly imagine that the "KA-KLUNK" sound once the engine spins to a stop when I turn the trunk off is the pulley hitting these bolts.

After monkeying the pulley around from below, I could budge it maybe 1mm, so it seems the crank is fine from reading up on TTS. I saw a broken crank video on YouTube, and it’s certainly not moving anywhere near that. I searched and read several harmonic balancer threads this afternoon. I know the pulley is bad as it’s spinning (bolt-to-bolt) around the rubber insert. But I have no idea if the HB is actually bad or not, though I’m reading much advice to replace both at the same time. I tried getting the 4 bolts on the pulley off but was just spinning the crank- is this what the pulley puller kit at HF is for?

Any pulley recommendations? I'm also looking at, yes, the Fluidamper. This should be the only issue going on, but will address the injectors after this if trouble persists.
 
The pulley doesn't need a puller once the 4 bolts are removed. Use another wrench on a bolt to hold the pulley in place, once you have a couple bolts loose use a big screwdriver between then to hold the pulley in place.
 
While the pulley won't need a puller, replacing the harmonic balancer will. You most certainly want to replace the balancer as well. They are a well known problem area on our 6.5's. Once you have removed the large bolt from the balancer, the puller attaches using the smaller threaded holes in the hub of the balancer. Here is a pic.

Matt
 

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You can get a puller at Mc parts. Tightening new HB to Ridiculous torque setting was my issue. There is a thread on here called How to replace a harmonic balancer, by Handcannon,about using pry bar to hold the crank from moving, and using a stout jack handle as a cheater bar to get the required torque. 300ft pounds comes to mind, but verify. I used sacrifial pulley bolts as they stretch and, get sacrificed to the 6.5 gods. I got the crow bcrow/pry bar at HF and cut the pry end off. I could not get myself to cut and wreck an American and more pricey tool from my carpentry box. Hope this helps.
 
Got it, thanks. Well I got the old pulley off, and sure enough, it's cracked and moving in two pieces. The HB 'looks' good, but I'm going to go ahead and stomach the cost and get the Fluid Damper from Leroy and an AMG take-off pulley he has. I like the thoughts I've read so far about the Fluid Damper being a one-time purchase, so I could mount it up to a P400 one day too, just like the ATT here. I'll plan to run by Harbor Freight to grab the pulley kit- might as well own it if it's pretty cheap. I need a couple other items there anyway and have my coupon at the ready... I'm concerned about how I'm going to torque the HB on and off, though. I've got a couple hack-sawwed steel pipes I use as cheater bars (actually had to use one today to get the pulley bolts loosened, probably the factory sprocket here). I've got a torque wrench, but it doesn't go up to 300 ft. lbs! Just 250. Any tips?

Also, unlike the ATT bolts, the pulley bolts came out in one piece and looking good. Can I still reuse these or will the Fluid Damper or pulley come with new ones?

I've reached out to Leroy and hopefully will have all these parts by next weekend with another update... Massive cold front about to hit here and drop temps by 40*F, but will be warm again by then.

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Yep, that HB looks ok however the Fluid Damper will put you at ease, I have my FD since they first came out for the 6.5td. The front pulley is wear item and having a spare while traveling is a good thing.

Good luck!
 
Wouldn't hurt to change the oil seal while you are swapping the HB. Again the seal puller tool is a cheap rental.
 
Just got the invoice sent. I did not get an email saying there were new post in this thread??
 
Depending on mileage there maybe a grove worn into the crank where the front crank seal rides a repair sleeve is the way to go and it's cheap insurance against leaks because of grove in crank.
 
Depending on mileage there maybe a grove worn into the crank where the front crank seal rides a repair sleeve is the way to go and it's cheap insurance against leaks because of grove in crank.
The seal rides against the balancer, not the crank. The speedi sleeves are so you can re-use your old balancer with a groove worn in it.
 
I could help you turn your pump up. I am roughly 2.5 hours away depending on what part of Dallas you are in. I have done two BD2 trucks. It is not that difficult. Let me know.

I would recommend figuring out what is wrong with the injector before you give more of a reason to turn the motor south. I do have plenty of spare injectors to swap out the bad one with.
 
Pulley sent yesterday, should have tomorrow. Fluid Damper a couple days later.

WW, that bolt does look F'ed up.
 
WarWagon and Leroy- I'll check the bolts again before using them but I think it's just the camera.

DieselCash- thanks, neighbor- I'll keep you in mind once I get to that step and may be in touch.

I'm looking forward to the parts arriving and should have some time on Sunday to get them in. At this point, and once I have the pulley kit for future use especially, I'm probably going to skip that seal for now. It leaks oil, but it's coming from somewhere else. That's on my list too.
 
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