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Testing Starter

Big T

Well-Known Member
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Location
Fullerton, CA
Had a no start on the ‘94 where I shut down the truck in front of my son’s house and the starter would do nothing. Had my son tow me the 2 blocks home.

In the course of driving this truck, I would periodically experience the same no start, but turn the ignition switch off and then to start would always get it going. Now I am wondering if the ignition switch gave up. How do I jump test the starter? Which terminals do I jump across? Can someone show me on the doll where to touch it?
 
If it's still a no start... Or the next time it doesn't:
Offhand you need 9V at the small wire and 11V at the large wire minimum for the starter to work. Measure with a voltmeter. 9V or more at the small wire eliminates the ignition switch. (With the ign switch in start of course.)

Likely the solenoid is bad as it's common for them to not work hot and after cool off work fine.

Also administer "Static Vibration Test" with a large heavy blunt object may get worn/sticking brushes to give you one more start.

I see a Powermaster in your future. :woot:

Beware the China junk solenoids plaguing us since 2016 ish. They do this...

 
If it's still a no start... Or the next time it doesn't:
Offhand you need 9V at the small wire and 11V at the large wire minimum for the starter to work. Measure with a voltmeter. 9V or more at the small wire eliminates the ignition switch. (With the ign switch in start of course.)

Likely the solenoid is bad as it's common for them to not work hot and after cool off work fine.

Also administer "Static Vibration Test" with a large heavy blunt object may get worn/sticking brushes to give you one more start.

I see a Powermaster in your future. :woot:

Beware the China junk solenoids plaguing us since 2016 ish. They do this...

Yeah I will be ordering a PowerMaster shipped to MT to avoid sales taxes. We are driving up to MT now.
 
If it's still a no start... Or the next time it doesn't:
Offhand you need 9V at the small wire and 11V at the large wire minimum for the starter to work. Measure with a voltmeter. 9V or more at the small wire eliminates the ignition switch. (With the ign switch in start of course.)

Likely the solenoid is bad as it's common for them to not work hot and after cool off work fine.

Also administer "Static Vibration Test" with a large heavy blunt object may get worn/sticking brushes to give you one more start.

I see a Powermaster in your future. :woot:

Beware the China junk solenoids plaguing us since 2016 ish. They do this...

Yep that video is my starter.
 
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