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Tapping for a exhaust temp gauge

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
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I didn't find much in the search on the topic. I'm not exactly sure where the temp sensor goes in the first place, let alone how to do it. I think it goes pre-turbo, but I'm not sure. Could someone please post a picture and give me some information on how to do it?

Also, I'm considering tapping my own intake for the boost gauge. Where would I drill to tap the hole for the boost gauge?
 
I'll see if I can dig up some pics but the best place it hte pass side ex manifold. There is a nice little flat spot that looks like it's made for it. You take the pass side wheel well out then drill and tap it with the engine running so it blows the shavings out. The boost you can drill and tap right in the side of the upper intake. I would take that off to do it. You definitely DON'T want ANY shavings in there. Holes are usually tapped to 1/8 NPT but depends on what you have.
 
I found a picture of the pyro install just now, actually...
attachmentn.jpg
 
If you don't fancy tapping the manifold, you can install a bung in the crossover pipe. I installed mine just under the LH manifold.

Enginebottom.jpg


And I was able to tap one of the unused bosses on the upper intake for the boost gauge. If you have a DS4 you may not have this option, so really anywhere the aluminum is thick enough will work. I like the AN fitting as its very easy to take off if I have to R&R the upper intake.

Sub070411-001.jpg
 
Just as an option, there is another place on the exhaust manifold that can be used for the EGT probe. It is actually on the other side of the manifold, almost directly opposite of where your pic shows it.

Don
 
I never liked putting it in the pipe. If you gotta drop the pipe, one more thing to remove or replace it. Very accesible from RS wheelwell in the manifold but that is JMO.
 
Hello to all,

I had two peterbilts tractors and both had the EGT probe installed on the exhaust pipe after the turbo. It was reading the hot exhaust gases after the turbine. What is the difference reading before or after the turbo? Has anyone mounted theirs after the turbo?

Have fun

Weasel
 
The only difference is in how you read the temps... the turbo drinks up a lot of the heat (conversion: heat --> energy --> turning the turbo), so the gasses are much cooler after passing through the turbo. If you consider 1250* a maximum pre-turbo temp, then if you take into account the above, 950* is a maximum post-turbo temp.

In other words, a reading of 950* (post-turbo) means your (pre-turbo) cylinder head readings are 1250*.

You can order colour-coded gauges specifically so the yellow and red areas are right for your probe location:

Post-turbo
R3607VW.jpg
vs pre-turbo
R3607T.jpg
 
Last edited:
JiFaire,

Thank you for the reply. So, the yellow would be the reading if mounted post turbo? I was thinking of going to the class 8 junk yard to get a boost and pyrometer
gauge. It would be cheap to purchase. I don't know if that would be a good idea to have a used EGT gauge over a new one. I just don't have a lot of money to put into the truck. Saving for the ATT turbo.

Weasel
 
JiFaire,

Thank you for the reply. So, the yellow would be the reading if mounted post turbo?

Nope, the colours are the same, just the temperatures change

- Yellow means what yellow always means ... warning, caution, heads-up, pay attention... yellow starts at 875* post- and 950* pre-turbo
- Red means "Danger, Will Robinson! Impending motor damage if you keep this up!"... red starts at 950* post- and 1250* pre-turbo

***edited to put the correct temperatures in. Duh.***

I was thinking of going to the class 8 junk yard to get a boost and pyrometer
gauge. It would be cheap to purchase. I don't know if that would be a good idea to have a used EGT gauge over a new one. I just don't have a lot of money to put into the truck. Saving for the ATT turbo.

Weasel
The gauges shown are isspro EV series - and you don't NEED colour-coded gauges, as long as you know the right temps for your probe location. As far as new vs used, as long as they are accurate, who cares? The probe is more important than the gauge, and must be the right probe FOR the gauge.
 
Well, I still need to snap some pics, but I got the gauge pod installed, gauges wired in, and boost line hooked into my intake via drill and tap method. I went with Glow Shift tinted 7 color gauges. 35 PSI boost gauge and 1500 degree pyro. I know they're not the best quality, but they should do the trick for a while.

I made a home-made turbomaster and set it for 11 PSI max. It holds about 3 PSI at constant highway speed and runs up to about 7 when accelerating like a normal person.
 
Off of the top of my head, I don't remember, but I think it might have been 10-32 or something like that. It is definitely metric simply because that's what I picked up at the hardware store.
 
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