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Surprise, Surprise...Didn't think I'd be here

Hey Forest nice to hear from you & wish you all the very best...stay in touch

It's good to be back. I have a little more time to spend on here, haha. And...my truck is running great, so I haven't really had to rush on here for anything. (Sad when I don't go to the people (or Lord) till I need something. Trying to work on that...)

Which brings me to a question or two, what's your opinion on the push button for 4wd? Vs on the floor? There aren't a lot of choices in this area for trucks, so the more picky I get, the harder it is to find an LLY. Or early LBZ. Also, anyone know how expensive it'd be to replace the center console with a seat? And where I could find one?
 
The push buttons are pretty reliable. I don't recall many failures I've heard of. Don't know what the cost would be for the seat. Might find somebody that wanted to swap for free.
 
How do you intend to use it?

I always preferred a lever transfer case, but after a couple winters with push button I say "F" that noise!

My transfer case and front axle engage each time every time. It's great running around in 2wd and being able to hit 4x4 at an intersection with a push of the button. Motor away, no muss, no fuss. Disengage anytime.

You can do the same with a lever, but what a PITA to lean down, yank it back and sit back up again. Some may say "lazy", I say i never have to chance a loss of control when shifting into 4x4 is no more trouble than turning the radio off.

Now that's a primarily street use truck with some light off road use. If I was building an off road rig, different story altogether....
 
Does it matter if its lever vs push button in terms of "on the fly" engaging? Or have I just been "chancing" it by engaging while moving with my mechanical transfer case?

Oh, and besides the occasional off the beaten path/farm drive...I typically use it for driving through blizzards on the highway (45-60 mph) and on really soft or bumpy gravel roads. (I like my theory that if all 4 tires are turning, the front isn't being "pushed" into bumps. Probably flawed...but I like it anyways, haha. An excuse to use it when I don't need to.)
 
Does it matter if its lever vs push button in terms of "on the fly" engaging? Or have I just been "chancing" it by engaging while moving with my mechanical transfer case?

Oh, and besides the occasional off the beaten path/farm drive...I typically use it for driving through blizzards on the highway (45-60 mph) and on really soft or bumpy gravel roads. (I like my theory that if all 4 tires are turning, the front isn't being "pushed" into bumps. Probably flawed...but I like it anyways, haha. An excuse to use it when I don't need to.)

Lever is shift on the fly also.

I'd have push buttons if I were using it like you say. Purely for convenience of use.

Yes, there's less electrical gremlins that can pop up in a lever case.

Personal preference I guess....
 
I'd get the lever case over the push button myself. My winter truck is an '08 Colorado, which is only available with the push button case. Mine is having some shifting issues now that I have not had time to investigate yet. I've never had an issue with a lever type transfer case.
 
I've had both but I'll take the pushbutton. In both cases it's best to let off at the point you are engaging/disengaging.
 
Why would LLY compression ration be higher than LBZ? I mean, theoretically, why would GM lower the compression ration? Cheaper parts with less pressure?

And Ed mentioned something about the LBZ's cracking pistons before LLY? Is that when a lead foot and excessive additional performance programming w/o proper exhaust & air intake mods, or is this in general every day use?

Also, on electrical transfer case engagements, is the line of power go from battery - switch - motor attached to transfer case - transfer case? Is there a way to manually over ride the transfer case if something were to happen to the wiring? (With mechanical, worse comes to worse, you crawl underneath and hit/yank/yell at the transfer case and hope it engages/disengages...) And yes, I trust you guys...just over analyzing it. ;-)
 
Why would LLY compression ration be higher than LBZ? I mean, theoretically, why would GM lower the compression ration? Cheaper parts with less pressure?

I don't know for sure, but I strongly suspect, that the compression ratio was lowered to pass stricter emissions rules. The most effective way to lower NOx emissions is to lower the combustion temperature. A lower compression ratio would give you that. The EGR circuit also helps lower the combustion temperature as well. It is a bad thing to do from an efficiency standpoint, but you have to do what you have to do to pass the EPA regulations.
 
Also, on electrical transfer case engagements, is the line of power go from battery - switch - motor attached to transfer case - transfer case? Is there a way to manually over ride the transfer case if something were to happen to the wiring?

Doesn't work that way.

The motor on the transfer case is a stepper motor IIRC and controlled by the shift module.

It works or it doesn't. When it's broke, it's broke.

Zapping 12v to it will most likely just fry more things.....
 
Just for kicks, how'd the manual transmission compare the last year it was offered?

(only reason I ask is realizing how much I'm going to miss driving a stick when/if I get an allison/duramax, haha)
 
The ZF6 was a pretty goog trans. Unfortunately, the link between it and the DMax is weak. Dieselkidd04 (Jim, you met him at our GTG last Summer) just bought clutch package #3 for his.
 
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